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If it follows the practice of some other Bachmann Spectrum engines, the fuel tank needs to be removed, allowing access to two or more screws which secure the shell to the frame. The couplers may need to be removed as well.

I haven't checked on the cost to build them lately, but the Twin-T detection system designed by Linn Westcott in the late 50's is relatively simple, and there have been a few offshoots and improvements over the years. Peter Thorne describes them in one of his books, Easy-to-Build Electronics...

3069 is a GP20R, according to my trusty copy of Diesel Locomotive Rosters which gives a build (rebuild?) date spanning 1978-1981.

Wow...that's some pretty impressive stuff for it's size :eek: And, speaking of size, going back to this post http://www.the-gauge.com/showpost.php?p=97363&postcount=49 the Euro coin at 23mm is slightly smaller than a US quarter, which measures in at 24mm.

Just 'forward' the email (not 'reply') to spoof@ ebay.com if it appears from eBay; or to spoof@ paypal.com if it appears from Paypal - don't forget to remove the space after the @ symbol.

Definitely a scam. Hovering your mouses' pointer over the link shows that it will take you to a site called com-bin.us Paypal and/or eBay will ALWAYS address you using your full name, not an email address.

You'll notice that those pics you're referring to aren't "attachments" , but rather are hosted on another website other than the fabulous Gauge. Many use railimages or something similar, and some of us have our own webspace to host them so that they can be inserted anywhere in the post...

The scenery would be easy for this one - flat with a few buildings :thumb: And you'd have to include the dog running away... ;)

Sometimes people do get caught up in the 'competition'. Sometimes they may be bidding/winning multiple items from the same seller, so the extra price they pay is offset by reduced shipping charges. Sometimes there just isn't a hobby shop near enough to make the trip worthwhile. My nearest...

I checked my P2K CP GP7/9 earlier tonight - it has the DB's molded as part of the shell. Not removable. Looks like you'll either have to acquire a shell with them, or scrounge up the parts to add on. A quick search through Walther's website shows that Precision Scale make the blisters; I would...

It won't matter...a light bulb is not polarity sensitive like an LED would be.

That's 17 volt amps....17 volts at 1 amp output. That's pretty light-duty for what you're using it to do. It will only handle 15-20 bulbs.

Just a few I've collected over the years... :cool: CN Lines SIG http://www.trainscan.com/cnlines/cycl/index.html (same page can be found at http://www.cnlines.com/cycl/ ) Canadian MLW/Alco pages http://reay.net/cdnmlw/ Trains Can main website http://www.trainscan.com/ Niagara Rails Diesel...

5547 is actually an SD40; it has been stored since '02 according to http://www.trainweb.org/galt-stn/cproster/locomotive/5500s/cp5547.htm Probably been cannibalized for parts. It looked pretty spiffy when new! :thumb:

Hi Guppy You're going to have quite an empire in that space! Just wondering, could the entrance door to the room be re-located to, say near or even in, the closet? That would allow for three and a half virtually un-interrupted walls. Knock out the closet walls and build your workbench in there...

You could borrow a trick from the under-table mounting brackets intended for Peco turnouts and their PL-10 motors. A short length of brass tubing slips over the pin of the motor to extend it's reach up to the turnout, and a small nail drops through the hole in the throwbar and into the tubing...

The red wire going below the motor is the motor lead you're seeking. The one attached to the chassis is the ground. The motor is insulated from the frame, and uses the wire to complete the circuit. Those two wires on the GP7 I have are nearly the same color; one is just barely lighter than the...

I'll put in a second vote for IRfan :thumb:

This should be what you're looking for: Four tabs hold the shell to the walkway/frame; gently squeeze and rock the body off, but don't pull too hard as the wires for the lights are attached to the shell.

Congrats, Russ!