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Sounds like your best bet is to build your own layout. Take a piece of plywood, nail down some track, and go from there, you can definatelly keep it easier that way, it would also be cheaper.

Well I tried the thing with the coin to get a better idea of whats going on. First the inner track gap on the left, the DCC handhelds screen said SDVA (or something like that) and I lose all control. And then the outer track, nothing happens. Then when I went to the other set of gaps, nothing...

Those are some VERY nice cars! And they look fine on the curves. Assuming those are the curves with the radius in question.

He just HAD to go and get an almost all container car fleet didnt he?:mrgreen: Ya know, my short little ore cars look fine on the smallest of curves.:cool:

Yes I simply swaped out the DCC system, Bachman to MRC, and left the Bachman module in. with the old system, it would click, and short out the train for a breif (not noticeable) second while reversing polarity. And it all worked fine. But now what is happining, is the new DCC system is more...

Yes indeed Ralph, very slow today. 60103, it makes more sense now. I think ill just do the minimum to get the wheels rolling, so I can keep some weight in it.

Hello?

Hello?

I use bondene, a styrene glue that melts the surfaces together for most plastic parts, and b mistake, Ive found that it can also give a nice faded weathering look.

I want to scrap out the guts on one of my athearn blue box locos and make it a dummy loco. Can I just pullout the running gear or will I need to buy new trucks and stuff like that? How do I go about doing this?

I love having my reverse loop, because its amazing for operational purposes. I have a switch off my mainm that goes directly into a wye, where the loop ends meet. The loop itself is about 16' feet long, and powered by a Bachman reverse loop module. I moved to a MRC dcc system, and have finally...

I cant express how much I hate not being able to post pics! Im getting alot done. I have the bridge in place with bridge track over it. The bridge nor track is secured, Ill keep it that way, but might use a little sticky tack. I have a hill made between my yard and dock approach, but now I need...

Nice work everybody! Jeffrey, that loco looks like it might be your best paint job yet! It will look very doog when finished. Herc, as everybody is saying, we have no problem with you posting your pics. Its nice to hear from you, and really cool to be able to see pics of where you are and...

Find a radius to work. You know the string trick, thats what I did. You can do it that way and find a radius thats between looks good and performance.

I got another piece of backdrop in and glued togther the bridge sections. I than began making the rest of the bridge track to go along with the piece I bought. I miscut a few times and now have a few pieces soldered together (including a bad burn which hurts like a ***** while Im typing:curse:)...

Could you just send me measurements of the benchwork?

Could you toss up a map of the benchwork? Id like to toss arond ideas for a track plan for my own future reference.

MORE EXPENSES! Today I went to the LHS with a freind, and bought some woodland scenics plaster cloth, and a bright boy track cleaner. I got to talking with the Phill, (one of the train guys there) and I ended up looking at the Walthers Shinohara code 83 bridge track. At $19 a peice it was hard...

You could just publish this as an article. If it goes on much longer it might take up the whole mag!sign1

Glad to have you back! Ive been waiting (impatiently) for a new post on this thread! Great work on the new setup. Looks like a great size for N scale. Everytime I see a pic of your ore dock I wish I had the cash for one on ebay, but they are like $280! Get some more work done and post...