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The amazingly helpful :cry: Dynamis manual says to read the manual that comes with the EZ DCC turnouts for programming accessory decoders. Or check the Dynamis website, which is almost as useful as the manual. What does the manual that comes with the turnout say?

Nope, but it's been awhile since I played with the Dynamis. I didn't get to try it with any accessory decoders. My first question is: can you access the turnout to start with? Before reprogramming it, I mean.

I think if you set CV 49 to 104, you will have a normally-forward, dimmable headlight (hit F4 to dim it). But I don't think you'll be able to dim it if it's an LED headlight - they're either on or off.

I've run one up and down on a shelf layout, and it was very smooth, and a good runner. No idea how well it pulls, since it's tough to let it stretch it's legs on an 8' shelf. :)

I've built a couple of Eastern Car Works Enterprise covered hoppers. It was some time ago, but I don't recall them being particular dogs, as kits go.

Here's a CN van that's seen better days - Mac yard, Toronto, ON.

It may not be a case of courage, but of a contractual obligation to not discuss internal business dealings of CrowdGather or whoever is running the show here. Since CG is in it for the money, and not the community, they don't really care how not disseminating information to members could...

Josh, For the exposure, there's a technique called "bracketing" you can try. What you do is take 3 shots, one at 1/2 or 1 stop below your guesstimated exposure, one at that value, and one at 1/2 or 1 stop above. So if you think you need to shoot at f5.6, you shoot one at f4.5, (or f5) one at...

Those pics are a huge improvement, Josh! :thumb: Looks like you're really getting a handle on how to control your camera! Some of them are a tad over-exposed, but that can be corrected (a bit) with some photo-editing software.

Wayne, thanks for that! I'm guessing they made a couple of trips to Brantford, because I remember my dad taking me to the TH&B station in Brantford to see those locos. We then drove out to Cainesville to see them head out of town. That was after the CBC aired the National Dream miniseries...

N&W 1218 at Silver Creek NY:

First we need to know what type of turnouts you have Manual or remote? Next we need to know what brand they are, since different manufacturers use different ways of moving the points. If they're remote turnouts, it may be if they only move in one direction and not the other that one of the...

Awwww.... gawrsh! :oops: Thanks Charlie, every once in awhile it all comes together for a good shot. Of course the problem with posting ones like that means that it raises expectations for the next ones! :mrgreen: Unfortunately, I don't have many more calendar shots of F40s... I do however...

Interesting. A little Googling reveals that that's a TootsieToy #186 Freight Train set. Near as I can tell, it's prewar. Estimated value between $200-300 by greedy auctioneers, usual selling price on feebay ~$100-150. TootsieToy is America's oldest toy manufactuer, apparently.

VIA 76 over the Grand River, Paris, ON.

Paris Junction Hobbies will. And since they're in Canada, and the Canadian dollar is trading at about $0.80 American, you effectively get a 20% discount over buying from shops in the US. I believe they take PayPal, as well as major credit cards.

Herc, Somehow, in putting the shell back on, you caused something to short out. That's what gave you the overload indication on your power pack. It may be that that contact you bent was contacting the wrong part of the frame, or something like that. Glad to hear you've got it fixed.

SFJ, In older Shinohara and Walthers turnouts, the point rails were energized by contact with the stock rails. To enhance that, they had small brass/nickle silver wipers on the points near the throwbar that reached under and touched the bottom of the stock rail , so that contact came both from...

Cute! TootsieToy? How many licks does it take to get to the centre of a TootsieToy? :p :D

Bob, Actually the Snap Switches have a constant radius frog rather than the fixed angle of the #4's and #6's. It's an 18" radius through the frog, so you can make an inside passing siding at the end of an 18" radius oval: