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The easiest way to get that sucker to run good would be to get an A-Line/Proto Power West chassis for it.. The part number is #51102, and it fits the Lionel/Bachmann GP30 shell. The chassis comes with a tuned mechanism, with a Mashima can motor and turned-and-balanced flywheels. Lots of...

Pull! *blam!* :D:D:D Skeet is a great way to relieve stress. EDITED TO ADD: Especially stress induced by a crappy-running pancake motored engine. sign1

There is a difference between a slug and a B-unit... A slug does NOT have a power plant (i.e. diesel engine) on-board. It only provides additional traction motors (to produce extra tractive effort), and it needs to draw the electrical power needed from a locomotive. A B-unit has a power plant...

NHSHobbies' prices are average... I would avoid Internet Trains like the plague. I placed an order with them back in June last year, and they didn't ship my stuff until November, and not everything I ordered was there. They finally refunded me for the items they couldn't get for me, even...

Isn't it! :thumb: I love mine too. It's just so much more handy and a lot faster than any other means of cutting rail. I used to use a cutting disc in a dremel, but no more, unless I'm gapping rails (and even then, that's only if I didn't think ahead). In the time it takes for me to make...

I got a project I'm working on right now that I'm experimenting the procedure with... Gimme a few days and I'll post some photos and a writeup. :thumb: Gotta wait until I got some free time on Sunday to do this-- I work saturdays unfortunately. :(

Look at it this way... You can't put a dissected frog back together again to make it run (jump?) better, but you can a model locomotive. sign1

I am experimenting with latex caulking right now, and I think I have found a good solution.. Basically I lay a bead of caulking on the roadbed, then spread it out using a plastic knife (the kind you get from fast-food restaurants). Then I lay the track on top of it, and then sprinkle on the...

Yeah Lionel got out of the HO business decades ago.. Their HO stuff isn't exactly top-notch to begin with. If you want a nice GP30, you ought to look into getting one made by Proto 2000. Those have all-wheel-drive flywheel-motored mechanisms and they run real nice.

I see a few places on the web where the Athearn GP38-2 dummy is still available: http://site.mawebcenters.com/southboundtrains/NewHO.html http://www.classictrains.com/HO_PG.htm http://www.happyhobby.com/hobb_html/athearn.htm...

Heya Jeffs, As long as the speed discrepancy isn't too great, there shouldn't be any harm in running two locomotives together in a consist. As far as I know, Atlas doesn't sell any dummies... But you can always grab an Athearn dummy and paint it up yourself... P&W has GP38-2s on its...

Yep, reference for Atlas Code 100 track products: http://www.atlasrr.com/Trackmisc/hocode100.htm The 168 are single pieces of 3' Code 100 flex track. The 178 are 5-packs fo 3' Code 100 flex track. Hope this helps!

I would get: Details Associates: #1508 MU Hoses #101301 brass sunshades (the stock Athearn ones are rather crude and sticks straight out the sides instead of at a slant). #2206 lift rings (goes on the side of the long hood on the dynamic brakes compartment). #2314 Windshield Wipers #2504...

Lots of guys here will be able to help you find prototype photos on the web and help you compare and pick out details that's not on the model so you will know what to buy. So post photos of the model when you get it and it should be straightforward from there on in. :thumb: Good luck!

I like that Amtrak Superliner consist with the P42 Gennie on point! Very nice-looking. :thumb: Say, weren't you looking for Phase-V Gennies a while back? They have been released and are widely available now. (Personally I like Phase-III and Phase-IV Intercity paint better, but that's just...

Get the loco first, then find some prototype photos of that particular engine. Compare the photos to your model and you will see what details you need to add. Good luck! :thumb:

From a passenger railroad perspective... Railroads are vital to the area where I live. As much as people like to complain about delays and other hassles when taking mass transit, here in the New York City area things will grind to a standstill if any of the several passenger systems develops...

LOL, of course you don't solder the handrails while they are on the loco body-- You do it on a jig first, then after the assembly has been soldered and painted, you install it onto the loco. The below locomotive I detailed shows off how the Smokey Valley handrails look:

Heya, If it's just a "beater" engine for your kids to abuse, yeah I wouldn't bother putting on handrails... They are delicate and they break easy (which is why the original handrails are gone!). :D If you do want to restore that loco for sentimental reasons (assuming that the mechanism...

If the wheels or the truck sideframes are bumping into the sidesills and preventing the truck from swiveling enough to get around a 22"-radius curve, you can: 1 - Cut into the inside of the side sills to give the trucks more swivel room. 2 - File some material off the part of the truck hidden...