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Ah yes...the markers on your SW/NW-X look perfect! Are they actually illuminated as well? Although to me they look slightly different than the steam loco. Plus you have different colored jewels. Do they come with a variety? It looks like my s-4 only has the clear "whites" for special...

Ya I came across the Cal Scale markers on ebay. I really wish they had some better pictures available. Hopefully I'll remember to order some next time I make an online order. Thanks for your suggestions!

Hello, Does anyone know a good source for maker lanterns that are similar to the ones used on this alco S-4? http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3068/2852500572_e424b1a88f.jpg?v=0

Indeed....I think I need to get a real nmra gauge. I still can't imagine that a Genesis engine or a new Superliner car would be out gauge though. I think my outdated Shinohara code 100 turnout has a problem with nmra RP-25 contour wheels. Because the flanges are thinner, the wheels must...

I agree....but after further review, Even after I isolate the frog the points are still soldered together. Thus they will always have the same polarity, and the risk of short continues. UPDATE: I found the problem! The rail is so soft that when it short-circuits the surface becomes pitted...

Glad to hear the trains are moving! Looks like a nice layout coming together. My track tip: A flat metal ruler (like the one that comes with small framing squares) is great for finding problems like this. -Simply lay the ruler flat upon the rail tops and stoop down to see how your track lays...

The problem is on the straight run through. I have not even tried making a crossover yet! I hate to modify the rails, but I don't think I have a choice now. I wish they had isolated the frogs like everyone else does!

Hi, I recently installed a code 100 shinohara double crossover switch. Pic of similar: http://tmrc.mit.edu/progress/gallery/scene/DoubleCrossOver.jpg The problem: Genesis SD70MACs and Walthers Superliner cars short circuit over the points. These turnouts have live frogs so both the curved...

Oh gosh! I have no idea, but I wish I did! I now have 12 of them that need diaphragms. All I know is that they were intended for Amfleet coaches...came from walthers. PS: Here's an F-40 with the round ditch light boxes....I bet they will look pretty similar to the box fixtures when they're...

Ehh....We'll see, I can always try that first. It's a very simple part so making a few castings wouldn't be terribly difficult. There may be a small ebay market for them too.

They were Amtrak engines...I mixed up my own blend of purple. Wayyyy closer than Walthers color! I have a walthers "non-dynamic" insert from another engine that I making a silicone mold from in order to make copies to un-dynamic my screamers.

Details West BE-135 or Walthers #235-135 $1.50 for a pack of two of 'em. http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/235-135

Wow, even with pictures I assumed the headlamp housing was silver. Your photo is of a VERY clean engine! I was able to use bells for GP high hoods. I don't remember the exact details, but i know there was some modification needed. Its super-easy to re-shape the soft metal.

As you know, I'm not a purist when it comes to details....so my MBTA Screamers will have simple round ditch light fixtures. I bought Detail Associates ditch light frames (flush mount). I will drill them out and the shell for GOW incandescent lamps.

I think the LED is getting the proper voltage, it provides as much light as my 44 Tonner. The problem is getting the light from the LED to the headlamp. The fixture has a clear plastic tab that makes an "S" to transmit the light out of the smokebox and up into the headlamp mounted on top of...

Problem Discovered! So it turns out... The loco has a working LED. Unfortunately the LED is not bright enough (or intense) to illuminate the solid clear plastic inside the headlamp. Not even when the room lights are out! The LED is a crappy yellow color so it must GO anyways! I will...

Thanks guys, Still no luck messing around with the plugs. I'll have to pop it apart. I can't imagine the lamp would be dead as it is an LED. Hopefully I will not damage anything...steam is so much more delicate to work with!

Hi, I just bought a new K4 pacific (DCC ready) but the headlamp does not seem to work. Is there a switch or plug somewhere? Thanks

Do you think it would be worth trying an MRC DROP-IN DECODER FOR ATLAS S2/S4? http://www.modelrec.com/search/product-view.asp?ID=8124

Thanks guys! This does not appear to be DCC ready, but the box indicated that conversion was possible.