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http://www.the-gauge.com/showthread.php?t=4083&page=2&highlight=age+poll There's a poll here that was started several years ago. If you haven't voted in it, I think that there's no reason that you can't now. It shows a very interesting distribution with 167 respondents as of Jan 2005!

Ya, now somebody needs to go find The Box!!! I've been missing it...:D

Lacquer thinner (MEK) , I would think would strip it!

Interesting Yahoo article today: http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20070303/us_nm/life_trains_dc;_ylt=AqIweqMZEHraY7mB46tUNmRH2ocA

bump :D :D It's still funny

Couple of old threads on this subject: http://www.the-gauge.com/showthread.php?t=880 http://www.the-gauge.com/showthread.php?t=318 Look for shamus' posts, he's one of the pros. Also, he has an interesting photography and lighting article in his e-book...

Obviously you must have reference points to locate the track. The turnout throwbars are the most critical points. The track is laid on the centerline of the foam roabed, which exactly coincides with the centerline marked off the original track position. Can't miss, can it??:D

Sorry, dup post?

I've been a real PITA myself, lately; but y'all don't know about it!!!:D :D I try to maintain a "nice" forum persona:rolleyes: Ya never know when ya might need something... Hey Gil, I accept your apology!! (Now, if I could just think of what was it he said...)

I used plain contact cement after first testing it on the grass sheet. It ain't goin' nowhere!! :) I was thinking you had a foam base. If not, the straight pins won't be too good, but as long as the track doesn't move around, white glue won't take long to set up. If you are nailing the track...

Scott, after reading all this you may be going nuts! N-scale track has a track gauge of 9mm. All other dimensions are scaled accordingly, at a scale of 1:160. If you want vehicles scaled correctly for N-scale, they are available at your LHS or via internet. Tell your friend he can buy HO...

Once the roadbed is secure, you can lay the track. Use some long straight pins to secure it. When it's all good, glue it down with white glue. Or just leave the pins in, with heads painted black to hide them.

You presently have the track laid temporarily with no roadbed, I believe. Use a fine-point sharpie to mark the CENTERLINE of the track. Just put dots between the ties. Mark EXACT locations of all turnout throwbars. Take up all track. If you have undertable switch machines, you will need to...

http://www.ebaymainstreet.com/state/#000099

wunna dem ne-fangled things dat us folk who cain't paint are burdened wit usin' Bee-yootiful paint job, Bob!!

Hi Parker, and Welcome to The-Gauge!:wave: Atlas have several inexpensive books on layouts and wiring which would give you a good start on reading up. You can find them at most hobby shops, I think! or at http://www.trainworld.com: 9 Beginner's Guide to HO Model Railroading 3.99...

Maybe another q is how set are you on the tabletop idea? You might look at a 24" wide bench all the way around a 2' x 7' operating pit. Much wider radii would be possible, and it would provide better access to all areas with no pulling out from the wall.

As luck would have it, McToots posted this today over on KAMR: http://www.knoxmodelrailroaders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=274 Looks too familiar:rolleyes:

If you have NO gaps, it's asking for trouble (IMO). Whether from track expansion, roadbed shrinkage, or what-have-you, I've found that gaps tend to close up, and the track WILL buckle:curse: , just like in real life. Now, my experience has been with cork on pink foam. Other substrates or...

Hi Jeremie, Glad you are OK, seems like you are taking it as it comes!:thumb: Too bad about the race team, but I guess it helps to have the trains to focus on for a while. Take care, and try to obey the docs! :)