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Those little Atlas books at the Hobby Shop are worth their weight in gold if you have not much wiring experience!:) And not expensive! :thumb: One of them has a good dual cab, common rail layout diagram.

It's a "photshop" job of a triplex.:thumb: (Erie is misspelled.) No, ya think? I guess you have "premission" to post it here? :thumb: somebody stop me...:mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:

Well I knew what he meant...:mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen: I think so too:wave:

hmmm. I thought this was going to be about all those whistle posts I'm collecting...

That's quite a piece of equipment! I think it looks pretty realistic!

If one is into continuous running (guilty) notice that a double crossover allows a single train to completely traverse both the inner and outer loops without changing any switches. Two single back-to-back crossovers do not. Just FWIW:mrgreen:

I don't know if you are hooked up on DC or DCC. I still am not sure what the normal draw on the motor is at 1.2v, but I think it's maybe more than what I was guessing? :confused: And yeah, the z-scale motor would be easier! But I think you are tryin' to keep down the cost? However, I'm thinking...

Yes , the wattage rating adds when you parallel the resistors, so two 560 ohm 1/4 watt will give you 280 ohm half watt. It's getting on down closer to the wild a***d guess of 50-100 ohms. And as you have found, you get more power in the resistors as the resistance drops and the current goes up...

Hi Fred, I don't want to seem argumentative, :eek: but I don't think that's true, because... The motor must dissipate whatever power is not converted. This is a function of both voltage and current (and mechanical loading). With short duration pulses, the average power delivered to the motor is...

If you want to use DCC track power with no decoder, then you will need a diode to rectify the power, in addition to a resistor to lower the voltage. I really think the decoder is very slick way to go, if you can fit it in. And I really don't think you need the resistor if you are using the...

The series dropping resistor has the effect of reducing the voltage on the motor to the required 1.2v. The value is a WAG and it will depend on the actual motor load current, which we don't know.I just called it 0.2 A. If the motor current draw is lower, the resistor will need to be a higher...

The decoder output alternates polarity. I think the zener is the wrong device because it regulates when reverse biased. Just try a 50 ohm 2 watt resistor in series with the motor. Hook up the motor, decoder, resistor to the DCC unit on the bench. Run it a while and see if it gets hot!

If you are really going to run this on DCC (I just read that in your post, duh) you need a decoder, no??

The resistor will not get hot if it has the correct power rating, or like you said, use multiple resistors. Will you be able to control the speed somehow? What is the current draw (amps) of the motor at 1.2 volts?

I just made sure that the cork roadbed was laid exactly on the line I had marked for the track centerline. Then the center line where the two halves of roadbed meet guided the centerline placement of the flextrack.

"just pretend for the longest time you have nothing in mind" Hmmmm... Could work...

I also have bought from them and was very satisfied!

I think it will work, and I think it's a great idea, wish someone would try it!

I think that the decoder actually runs on non-sinusoidal AC, not DC (ducking) and you must have a DCC power supply to feed the bus. I think.

It seems as though there is no thought that the extra weight will increase the axle loading, the wear on axle bearing surfaces, the torque on the notoriously weak :curse: axle gears, and the current draw through the motor and commutator. Everything will wear out eventually. I think adding...