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It would seem to me that everyone has missed what has happened here. The Walthers HO book was a reference to what was available in the hobby. You could find nearly everything that you needed in it. You knew what it was and who made it. True some things were not available at any given moment, but...

Ask and ye shall receive. Here is a shot I found several years ago. Photo and photog info included. Photographer: Richard Nimtz Description: Railroad Rail Grinder working on the Conrail Tracks near Leer Street in South Bend, Indiana. The picture was taken at dusk. A time...

Not quite as thin as you describe, but Champ (the decal people) used to put out brick sheets and shingle sheets that were outstanding. I still have a couple left and they will go into my own structures. :)

Maybe, but if true, Walthers surely would have announced it. I'll look forward to seeing if it is true. :)

Use super glue, but the gel formula. Most super glues tend to be thin and won't fill the small gaps in joints. The gel is gap filling and adds strength.

No. It adds to load time and soon becomes an irritation.

There are two or three articles on the NMRA 'Introduction to Model Railroading' pages that may help you change couplers and trucks. Check out http://www.nmra.org/beginner/

So am I and I have been using oil off and on for 20 years. This is not a new thing. :)

The metal frogs of Atlas turnouts aren't hard to wire. Drill, tap and screw is what you need to do. You won't solder to the frog well. That said, you need a relay of some type to change the voltage (power) to the frog when you throw the turnout. Atlas has a 'Snap Relay' you can wire in if you...

For a lot of information for the beginner, you can take a look at the NMRA's 'Introduction to Model Railroading' pages at: http://www.nmra.org/beginner/ Welcome to the hobby!

Not sure exactly what you're asking. How do switches work? How do they connect? Since I don't know what track you have, I'll be general. There are essentially two type of turnouts, selective and non-selective. Selective routes power only to the track path that you have chosen. This can be great...

In support of what seens impossible, I just got a 1950 American Flyer set operating again for a friend. It took a lot of cleaning and oiling to get the loco operational, but the track was hideous. A bright boy helped, but it was still terrible. A couple of swipes with a light-weight detergent...

I assume HO. If you are having derailments with properly weighted cars, I would suggest that you might want to find and fix the problem before adding more weight. Several things come to mind. 1) The wheels are not in gauge. An NMRA gauge can help with this. 2) There are kinks in your rails at...

Labelle 108 also works well. Perhaps not as good as Wahl, but good. Why would anyone put oil on their track? To keep the oxidation down and to cut the gum making for better electrical contact. A drop goes a loooonng way. Indeed, I take a drop on my finger and wipe it along the rail. The wheels...

Frankly, I think that you're kidding yourself about that, but that's ok. I figured out how to bypass the 'Home Page' so it won't affect me any longer.

Good God what a mess! Nothing like a 'New' Home Page to drive you away. I'm not even sure how I got here and may never be able to find my way back!!

When I use 'snap' switch machines, I use pushbutons. A steady current will melt the twin coil machines. They use spring tension to hold the rails in place. Slow Motion machines like the tortoise use toggle switches as they require a steady current to help keep the turnout points held against the...

There are two articles on the NMRA 'Introduction to Model Railroading' http://www.nmra.org/beginner/ pages that may be of some help. Knuckle Couplers (Kadee) http://www.nmra.org/beginner/couplers.html Retrucking old r-t-r cars http://www.nmra.org/beginner/retrucking.html

I was there yesterday and just went there today. It's alive and well.

Well, I have seen heavy damage to materials after several years of unfinished attic storage. It isn't just the heat in the summer, but the cold in winter as well. If you are some place where it never gets really cold, you might be good, but here in Central Indiana it does get cold in the winter...