I was reading where some guys put their locomotives in an oven to bake on the paint. At what temperature and for how long would one bake their loco or other metal project? Would you also bake on the primer in the same manner?
temperature to bake on paint
- Thread starter leon
- Start date
baking paint
I have only done this painting Brass, trying to get a harder finish.
I kept temperatures very low, just over 100 degrees.
I no longer use my oven though. I have some of those halogen work lamps on a stand. When I paint Brass, the first thing I do is to soak it in solvent to remove the varnish ( some brass models were painted with a brass color paint to hide solder joints, and color differences in the brass). after soaking in solvent I scrub them down with an old tooth brush, and then boil them in soapy water. From here on out they are not touched without rubber gloves.
after they have been boiled in soapy water, and rinsed off, I soak them in vinegar for about an hour. the vinegar is a mild acid, and gives the brass some tooth. then, once again with rubber gloves I rinse them in hot water and put the assemblies on my painting surface- often a clean scrap of plywood on some sawhorses. I set up my Halogen spots, and shine them on the locomotive parts from a distance of a few feet. this gets the parts hot, and after 30 minutes or so there won't be a trace of moisture on the parts.
I then paint them right there under the lights. the parts , being hot, dry very quickly , and the paint gets a smooth hard surface. I use grey or red primer first, and I try to dust it lightly.
the paint if sparingly applied , dries almost instantly on the hot brass, so there is little chance of getting a run, even in those tricky places like behind an air pump ,or on the front of a cab, behind the turbogenerator; where one has to get too much paint in some places in order to get enough in other places.
I have gotten good results with this technuque.
Bill Nelson
I have only done this painting Brass, trying to get a harder finish.
I kept temperatures very low, just over 100 degrees.
I no longer use my oven though. I have some of those halogen work lamps on a stand. When I paint Brass, the first thing I do is to soak it in solvent to remove the varnish ( some brass models were painted with a brass color paint to hide solder joints, and color differences in the brass). after soaking in solvent I scrub them down with an old tooth brush, and then boil them in soapy water. From here on out they are not touched without rubber gloves.
after they have been boiled in soapy water, and rinsed off, I soak them in vinegar for about an hour. the vinegar is a mild acid, and gives the brass some tooth. then, once again with rubber gloves I rinse them in hot water and put the assemblies on my painting surface- often a clean scrap of plywood on some sawhorses. I set up my Halogen spots, and shine them on the locomotive parts from a distance of a few feet. this gets the parts hot, and after 30 minutes or so there won't be a trace of moisture on the parts.
I then paint them right there under the lights. the parts , being hot, dry very quickly , and the paint gets a smooth hard surface. I use grey or red primer first, and I try to dust it lightly.
the paint if sparingly applied , dries almost instantly on the hot brass, so there is little chance of getting a run, even in those tricky places like behind an air pump ,or on the front of a cab, behind the turbogenerator; where one has to get too much paint in some places in order to get enough in other places.
I have gotten good results with this technuque.
Bill Nelson
We painted our 55 Chev 2 door post at 2 AM and then built up the woodstove until it glowed so the car would sorta dry by 8 am so we could tow it to the strip.
What?
Paint and thinner fumes, closed environment, open flame.
Nah, wouldn't happen.
What?
Paint and thinner fumes, closed environment, open flame.
Nah, wouldn't happen.