www.modeltrainsweathered.com

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rdivizio

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Dec 28, 2003
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www.modeltrainsweathered.com
Hello everyone, Just an update.

I have redone my gallery and links page. Things were looking kind of shabby
on those pages so I cleaned it up a little.
www.modeltrainsweathered.com
As far as the background images for these pages, I want people right away to see that the weathering of my cars can hold up to close up photography.
I think that is like the true test. Sometimes I will take pics of the car as it's progressing just to make sure it's looking the way I want it.

If it does'nt look real up close, It's not going to look real on a layout.
I guess it all depends how detailed you want to be. I'm sure there are weatherers out there that get even more detailed.

Weathering Techniques can be found on my Inspiration Yard page.

Thanks, Rich Divizio
mainecentralrustdetail6.gif
 
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Rusty Spike

Member
Dec 5, 2003
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Mankato, MN
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Here's a technique I used a few weeks ago - we live in the country and our water is heavily laden with mangenese (spelling?). I set up a chicken waterer one time and let the water run very slowly into the plastic container - it slowly trickled over the sides and left rust-looking streaks similar to what you might see on an old car.

After that experience floated around in my head for 2 or 3 years (gears are turning, slowly though) I placed a couple of grain hoppers under a very mist from the hose and left them there for a week. Wow did they weather! Streaks, multiple colors, a little transparent over the decals, etc. I liked them very much. It really isn't artistic but it was a fun experiment.

I would post a pic but they are all packed up right now for a pending move. I'll get them out later and share them then.

I'm a big fan of your work - thanks for sharing the website, etc.
 
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belg

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Apr 28, 2001
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Rich I did not get a chance to read all your website yet but I know you wrote about using canopy type cement to make the scratched rust look build up. I'm wondering if you have ever used the sweet and sour mix to build up your rust Vinegar/steel wool if your not familiar with the term? Is there a way to increase the size of the type on your site as I'm having a little trouble reading it?Thanks Pat
 
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kjd

New Member
Sep 9, 2004
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>Is there a way to increase the size of the type on your site as I'm having a little trouble >reading it?Thanks Pat

in IE View-Text Size-Largest
 
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Isambard

New Member
Aug 26, 2004
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Canada
rdivizio said:
Hello everyone, Just an update.

I have redone my gallery and links page. Things were looking kind of shabby
on those pages so I cleaned it up a little.
www.modeltrainsweathered.com
As far as the background images for these pages, I want people right away to see that the weathering of my cars can hold up to close up photography.
I think that is like the true test. Sometimes I will take pics of the car as it's progressing just to make sure it's looking the way I want it.

If it does'nt look real up close, It's not going to look real on a layout.
I guess it all depends how detailed you want to be. I'm sure there are weatherers out there that get even more detailed.

Weathering Techniques can be found on my Inspiration Yard page.

Thanks, Rich Divizio
mainecentralrustdetail6.gif
Click to expand...
Hi Rich:
Can you expand upon your techniques for doing the wheels and trucks. They look terrific!
Do them in batches? Use a holding jig? Keep paint/chalk (?) off tire surfaces and flanges? etc etc
Thanks for your postings!
:p
 
R

rdivizio

New Member
Dec 28, 2003
55
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www.modeltrainsweathered.com
Hi Isambard,
Thanks man. Your going to love this. Here's the deal on the wheels. I soon will have the way I do it on my "Inspiration Yard" page, including pics and such, but here's a little something to get ya started.

To get the wheels looking that way I had to fall to the airbrush, but not for detailing, just to do many at a time lined up on a jig I made.
My jig is just a piece of pine board with little holes to fit 4 wheelsets on their ends.
I bored out the holes perfectly with a countersinking bit so that my Intermountain wheels would fit nice and snug.
Now for the airbrush. I usually choose kind of a railroad tie color to do all the wheels in and paint them all over. I then can grime them up later with
a dark wash just so they don't look too perfect and clean.

We have to protect the actual part of the wheel that would be ridden on. One side will be hidden by it being in the countersunken hole, and the up side we will put a little copper ferrule that fits perfectly over the rim and still allowing you to paint on the inside face of the rim. No paint will be sprayed on those protected areas and will always remain shiny just like real wheels.

I thought of it like a mask and the ferrule fit perfectly.
If your wondering what a ferrule is, it's like a little washer that can be found
in plumbing compression shutoff valves. HOME DEPOT

The inside face of the wheels still have to be detailed with a somewhat of a rusty grime color, either with your alcohol chalk washes or paint washes.

To actually get a nice layered look, I will probably work two to three shades of my custom colors on the face of my wheels.

I will try to show pics soon on my site. Hope this helps.
Rich Divizio
9-21-04
 
I

Isambard

New Member
Aug 26, 2004
30
0
6
89
Canada
rdivizio said:
Hi Isambard,
Thanks man. Your going to love this. Here's the deal on the wheels. I soon will have the way I do it on my "Inspiration Yard" page, including pics and such, but here's a little something to get ya started.

To get the wheels looking that way I had to fall to the airbrush, but not for detailing, just to do many at a time lined up on a jig I made.
My jig is just a piece of pine board with little holes to fit 4 wheelsets on their ends.
I bored out the holes perfectly with a countersinking bit so that my Intermountain wheels would fit nice and snug.
Now for the airbrush. I usually choose kind of a railroad tie color to do all the wheels in and paint them all over. I then can grime them up later with
a dark wash just so they don't look too perfect and clean.

We have to protect the actual part of the wheel that would be ridden on. One side will be hidden by it being in the countersunken hole, and the up side we will put a little copper ferrule that fits perfectly over the rim and still allowing you to paint on the inside face of the rim. No paint will be sprayed on those protected areas and will always remain shiny just like real wheels.

I thought of it like a mask and the ferrule fit perfectly.
If your wondering what a ferrule is, it's like a little washer that can be found
in plumbing compression shutoff valves. HOME DEPOT

The inside face of the wheels still have to be detailed with a somewhat of a rusty grime color, either with your alcohol chalk washes or paint washes.

To actually get a nice layered look, I will probably work two to three shades of my custom colors on the face of my wheels.

I will try to show pics soon on my site. Hope this helps.
Rich Divizio
9-21-04
Click to expand...
Thanks Rich:
I get the picture, except for the pointed axle end that goes into the journal bearing. How do you keep it free of paint?
 
R

rdivizio

New Member
Dec 28, 2003
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www.modeltrainsweathered.com
The points of the wheels never get seen if they are hidden in the journal bearing, so it does'nt matter if they get painted, unless you feel that the paint may interfere with the smoothness of the wheel turning over time.

If that's the case, then once the wheels are painted and dry, you can take some alcohol and wipe off those points.

Keeping the paint on the points is so minute that I can't see it being a problem later on.

Rich
 
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