Working With Cardboard

[MagicMan_841]

I've been reading Matthryo's thread at it inspired me to try building something with cardboard. So I got some stuff in the recycle bin and now I have the main corrugated board structure of a grain elevator.

My questions are :

- What do you use to paint cerealboard. I'm guessing water based paint will "wet" the cardboard and ruin it.

- How do you apply decals to cardboard.

Much help appreciated
Thanks

 

[Matthyro]

MagicMan_841, I use those crafters acrylic paints that are sold all over the place from craft stores to Walmart. While they are water based, I don't use water on the first coat. Just use the paint right out of the bottle. This seals the cerealboard and prevents warping. Further coats can be paint thinned with water for weathering effects.
A decal can be added if the area is primed with a sealer like Testors dull coat. The decal can then be applied.

 

[MagicMan_841]

Thanks a lot, sir.

It's good to have advice from the masters of the art

 

[billk]

I've heard that painting both sides of the cardboard helps to prevent warping, also. Haven't tried it.

 

[MagicMan_841]

another question : do you use an airbrush or a paint brush??? And how many coats do you apply?

 

[Matthyro]

The paint from the bottle is too thick to airbrush so I just use a brush. It takes two coats to get the colour pure. If you plan to weather then sometimes one coat is sufficient. It also depends on how thick you brush the paint on. Different colours seem more transparent on the first coat than others. Be sure to give the little bottle a good shake before using

 

[MagicMan_841]

I've tried with a brush, but the brush strokes clearly shows. Is there a way to hide them?? It looks kinda lame, but not bad for a first attempt. Too bad I don't have a digi cam

 

[shaygetz]

Originally posted by MagicMan_841
I've tried with a brush, but the brush strokes clearly shows. Is there a way to hide them?

I use Floquil paints most often. They grind their pigments real fine so that the paint lays flat. You may also be over stroking the paint too much. Don't try to spread it so far. I also cheat a little. I brace all my walls with wood from those really long fireplace match sticks. Because I use acrylics as well as oil base, it's cheap insurance against warping. The shack was done with acrylics on the roof and window frames and oils everywhere else.

 

[Matthyro]

Any painting that shows brush marks is usually due to the quality of the brush being used. Like so many things in life these days, it is better to get the best quality brushes you can find. I gave up on the cheepie brushes years ago and now use artists brushes. I have some watercolour brushes and some acrylic brushes. They sure aren't cheap but they are definitely worth the cost.
You can get them at Michaels and other art supply stores.
I use #1, #3 and #8 round sable and a #12 1/2 inch chisel type sable brush.
Brushes should be washed and shaped after use and should be stored upright in a container so the hair does not come in contact with any surface.

 

[Bill Stone]

Another good sealer that I have used successfully on card stock, is shellac. It's alcohol-based and dries hard. Applied to both sides it even stiffens the card stock a bit. It's also an excellent sanding sealer for wood.

I usually brush it, but it can also be found in spray cans.

Bill S

 

[MagicMan_841]

Thanks all.

I'm gonna go get myself some decent brushes soon.

The actual thing I built wasn't bad, but the paint is lame. I'll just make another one (no way I'm buying another of those stupid Walthers kit!!!).

 

[rsn48]

I have used this product on my backdrop, but I bet it would work well with the card board structures as well.

After I got my backdrop up, an arts and craft person recommended that I spray it with a paper fixative, which I did. This provides a fine coat so that if I get something on the backdrop (I already did), it would come off easily without damaging the paper backdrop (it did come off without damaging the backdrop). A small layer is built up on the paper and protects it. I also sprayed with a matte finish for photographic purposes, but this also would add a layer so that the prep for painting would be quick, and you could use more water in the paint without worries.

 

[Bill Stone]

I just ran across an ad in the latest NGSL Gazette (pg 95) for a new company that is producing printed "Laser Cut Paper Craftsman Kits". In their photographs their RR depot and barbershop look pretty good. Also, they have "texture sheets" of shingles available in HO, but also coming soon in S and N.

The company is Paper Creek Model Works

Have a look at www.papercreek.com

Bill S

 

[shaygetz]

Originally posted by Bill Stone
I just ran across an ad in the latest NGSL Gazette (pg 95) for a new company that is producing printed "Laser Cut Paper Craftsman Kits". In their photographs their RR depot and barbershop look pretty good. Also, they have "texture sheets" of shingles available in HO, but also coming soon in S and N.

The company is Paper Creek Model Works

Have a look at www.papercreek.com

Bill S

Nice...but I'd still put my money on Matthyro. He'll smack 'em around like a bad boy

 

[Alan Curtis]

Originally posted by Bill Stone
Another good sealer that I have used successfully on card stock, is shellac. It's alcohol-based and dries hard. Applied to both sides it even stiffens the card stock a bit. It's also an excellent sanding sealer for wood.

I usually brush it, but it can also be found in spray cans.

Bill S

Shellac! I used to use this years ago (more than I care to remember) We used card and shellac before the new-fangled styrene sheet arrived Must see if it is still available round here.

I remember building some passenger cars in card, using shellac to seal and stiffen. Good stuff!

 

[Tyson Rayles]

Bill Stone did you see the prices on the Papercreek Kits! $23-$30 PLUS SHIPPING AND HANDLING AND TAX FOR PAPER???????? ARE THEY NUTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Besides if you want you can do the same thing on your puter yourself for free and use a exacto instead of a laser!

 

[MagicMan_841]

The point of building using cardboard and paper is to save $$$ and actually BUILD something, not just glue parts.

What's weird is that people will pay 30$ for a paper kit, otherwise they wouldn't sell them.

 

[Bill Stone]

Yup.....
I too thought their prices were a bit wild.
Don't know if anyone's paying that for them. It's the first time I've seen the ad, so they may be a brand new outfit. It'll be interesting to see if they last.
And I totally agree that one of the reasons for using card stock is to save money. (Another reason is that it's one of the totally viable modeling materials that some modelers prefer to work with.....)
Bill S