Working on the MDC shay

Discussion in 'The Academy' started by Ray Marinaccio, Nov 27, 2003.

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  1. grlakeslogger

    grlakeslogger Member

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    Question for Ray

    Ray. the piping looks very well done. I've used brass or half hard brass for piping before but have never used steel.
    1. Is there a particular reason you do use steel?
    2. How do you adhere it to the boiler? To brass parts?
    3. Most of my brass comes from K&S. If steel has advantages, where do you get it?

    Oops, I guess that became SEVERAL questions--happens a lot in this hobby, doesn't it? Thanks again for your posts.
    --Stu--
  2. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    Stu,
    I actually prefer brass wire. It's easier to form.
    I used a piece of an Athearn hand rail for the water injector line to replace the original steel MDC part, only because thats what I had on hand that was the right dia. . The line under the compressor exhaust line is a hardened steel twisty tie like I used for the railing on the side of the cab and water tank. (cheep source of thinner wire).
    As for attaching the pipes , I drill holes where ever possible and use super glue to attach the part and fill the holes. I have found that cleaning the part to remove any oil that is on it from handling it helps.
    On some long runs of pipe, I install a bracket to hold it in position. I bend an eyelet from thin wire and glue it in a predrilled hole.
    The compressor had dimples where the lines connect that were drilled out a bit and the ends of the lines inserted and glued.
    At some point I'd like to try resistance soldering parts like these.
    I think some advantages to using steel over brass would be strength on long runs of pipes that may be subjected to abuse from handling and it isn't marred as easily by tools in the bending process.
  3. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    Thanks
    I am planning to use white LEDs machined on the lathe to a tight press fit into the housing . I am going to try to cut a taper in the front of the LED to resemble a reflector and glue a thin lens over it. The leads of the LED will be shortened and KD coupler springs attached to act as contacts. (sounds good in theory)
    I installed a disconnect plug for the front light in the boiler today. (more VCR parts)

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  4. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    This is the jumper wire to the motor. The leads from the front truck will attach to these wires inside the boiler, where power will be tapped for the headlight. The leads from the rear truck will run to the motor.

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  5. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    A better shot of the left side.
    If you look closely you can see the strap holding the water injector line.

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  6. grlakeslogger

    grlakeslogger Member

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    Wow !! Great work, Ray. It looks absolutely terrific. I usually notice things like hangers and how sraight the piping is right off; it's the giveaway that one is looking at careful, meticulous work.

    Are you soldering or gluing your piping and major parts?
    --Stu--
  7. eldncn

    eldncn New Member

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    Hello Ray,
    I'm curious as to your trick to modifying the pilots. They look like wooden beams. Would you care to share this with us? That babe REALLY looks great.
  8. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    Thanks again everyone.
    Stu,
    The piping and parts are glued on this one. I like to drill mounting holes and add pins for strength when gluing the larger parts like the compressor and air tank.
    On the steel and brass locos I've built I usually solder as much as possible.

    eldncn,
    Welcome to The Gauge.
    After I glued in some extra plastic to the original pilot, filled it with putty and got the general shape, I used a dull razor saw to scribe the individual beams.
    Then to get the grain look, I took the same saw and dragged it sideways across the surfaces. Sort of like shaving with a VERY dull razor. In the hard to reach spots I used an exacto knife to scribe the grain. A small brass wire brush was then used to clean out the groves and round any sharp edges.

    I have the frame almost ready for paint now. I added the other 3 sides of the firebox, the steps and some bracing.
    I'll have to take a few more photos to post.

    I'm now looking at the motor (steam engine), trying to decide what details to add. Piping? Valve gear?
  9. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    Thanks Mastiffdog,
    This shows the firebox sides. I embossed rivets on them, the glare in the photo makes them hard to see.

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  10. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    I made filler peices to simulate the backs of the cylinder supports and filed them to shepe after gluing them in place.

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  11. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    This is the second attempt at some of the valve gear parts. The arms were fabricated on a jig, soldered then thined by rubbing them on a file.

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  12. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    Thanks Dragon

    Here's the third attempt at the valve gear.
    I formed the parts with .010" copper wire then pressed them between two steel plates. The ecentric rods and reverse link were soldered together and the rest of the parts were glued in place.

    I'm having a hard time getting a good photo, here's what I've got so far.

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  13. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    another

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  14. 60103

    60103 Pooh Bah

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    Ray: is this any help?

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  15. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    Thanks eldncn and pttom,

    Nice photo David,
    I had a hard time finding a good closeup photo of a Shay motor of the same style as the MDC motor. The photo you posted has the same style valve gear. Some had a different guide for the valve and the cylinder supports were different. I didn't realize there were so many different 3 cylinder shay motors until now. Thanks for posting it.
  16. 60103

    60103 Pooh Bah

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    Ray:
    I found that shay stuffed and mounted in Cadillac, Michigan. I've been there quite a few years in a row, but this year I had the chance to take a pile of detail photos. Any other bits you need? The trucks turned out well, but the loco is in a structure -- no sides but the roof is kinda low.
    The interesting side was in bright sun, but the offside...

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  17. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    David
    A photo of the trucks might help. I might put some brake rigging on. If you have larger photos you could Email them. Thanks
  18. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    Railings were made by gluing leads from LEDs into holes drilled in the shell. Then 1/32" strips of aluminum can were glued on.

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  19. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    Another view of the railing.

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  20. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    A back was added the firebox, some wire and misc. detail parts so the cab wouldn't look empty.

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