Working on the MDC shay

Discussion in 'The Academy' started by Ray Marinaccio, Nov 27, 2003.

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  1. Drew Toner

    Drew Toner Member

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    MDC two truck shay

    Helo Ray,

    I noticed these things while I was installing the motor to the frame. So now that I have assembled it once, I can take it apart and modify it before actually building it!!:eek: :thumb: Isn't that the way it usually ends up.

    Speaking of decoders, I also have the new Rivarossi two truck Heisler. What decoder do you think would work well in it. Some one recomended a DZ, but I wonder if it could handle the current. I wouldn't mind finding one that would work in both the Heisler and the Shay.

    Drew

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  2. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    Drew,
    I usually end up assembling and reassembling a loco more than once before it is finished, sometimes not intentionaly.
    I don't think I've got enough experience with DCC to give advice on what decoder to use. I personaly would hook an amp meter in series with the loco in question and work it under a load (pull a string of cars up a grade) and monitor the Actual amps the loco draws . Then match that with the amp rating of a decoder. That may be the hard way of doing it but I hate frying electronic components.
  3. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    I took some photos of the lights I'm building. The light housings were turned on the lathe . the mid sections were milled from 1/16" brass strap and the lower brackets were fabricated from .010" brass sheet with embossed rivit detail.

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  4. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    Front

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  5. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    The parts

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  6. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    This is the rivit tool I built to emboss the rivits.

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  7. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    Thanks Chris and Stu.
    I'm trying to decide how to hide the wires to the lights. I was going to drill a hole in the bottom and just feed the wires through.
    I may use the housing as one conductor and run another to the cab to simulate the prototype electrical conduit. Any thoughts?
  8. interurban

    interurban Active Member

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    Hi Ray,, do you mean to have the whole body as a feed or insulate the lamp housing from the body and then "touch" a wire on the housing and a wire to the bulb?
  9. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    Chris
    I would like to keep the metal boiler and frame electrically isolated to prevent accidental shorts through the couplers. I may use a #20 series KD coupler to avoid this problem if I have to, then use the boiler and frame as a conductor for the front light. I'm looking at photos to see where the electrical conduits ran on the prototype, then run a piece of enameled wire in that location. I'd like to make the bulbs easily replaceable. I have a few locos with burnt out bulbs that I didn't consider bulb replacement when I built them.
  10. interurban

    interurban Active Member

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    You could put a insulation sleeve inside each lamp, then run the two wires to there respective pick up points.

    A spot of instant glue will hold it in place and can be drilled out if needed to be replaced
    Or you could use clear silicon which will do both "isulate and glue" the bulbs in place.
    Just a thought.:p
  11. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    This is what I came up with for the light wires.
    I made a contact disc from PC board with enamal coated wire soldered to it and fed the wires through small holes in the housing, then bending and gluing it along the inside of the brackets.

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  12. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    Holes were drilled in the shell and the wires feed through and the assembly glued in place.

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  13. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    The wires were glued to the shell to prevent them from flexing and breaking off.

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  14. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    For the front, two 1/16" holes were drilled at 45 degree angles till they met.

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  15. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    Then I drilled a 1/8" hole from the bottom to meet them, then milled passages for the wires on the bottom.

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  16. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    I added extra insulation to the wire to prevent accidental grounding on the boiler.

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  17. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    The wires were fed through and the assembly was glued in place.

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  18. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    This shows the wires glued into the passages.

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  19. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    Thanks Stu.
    I've been adding parts to the boiler and doing a bit of plumbing.
    A bracket was fabricated for the compressor I found in a parts lot(not sure who made it). The piping is steel and brass wire.

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  20. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    The other side.

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