Woodland Scenic White Metal kit help

Discussion in 'FAQs' started by jlg759, Mar 30, 2006.

  1. jlg759

    jlg759 Member

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    Hello I know this question may sound stupid but how do you get super glue to hold woodland scenic white metal castings together. I have tried 2 different super glues and neither will work. I cleaned the parts by soaking in a bowl of dish liquid and let them air dry, still no luck. One idea I had was to maybe try some vinager to clean the parts. Both super glues were new however still the parts wont stick together. Thanks

    Joe
  2. Wyomingite

    Wyomingite Member

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    Hi Joe,
    I think I read on a thread the other week that vinagar will do the trick. I/m sure someone else will jump in for your answer.

    Ron :wave:
  3. ezdays

    ezdays Out AZ way

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    Use this link to get you to a discussion on this. It is a thread on "using glue" further down in this forum.
  4. shaygetz

    shaygetz Active Member

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    announce1 I use Loctite Super Glue Gel Control:thumb: (unpaid endorsement...sigh:rolleyes: )
  5. cidchase

    cidchase Active Member

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    This may be obvious, Joe, but did you rinse them completely with hot water?:)

    It's the water that does the cleaning; the soap facilitates dissolving the dirt and oils.
    Soaking in dish liquid is for softening fingernails.:D :D

    "You're soaking in it."
    "WHAT???!!"
    "Relax, it's Ivory Liquid."
    (IIRC)
  6. nachoman

    nachoman Guest

    Why super glue? I am assuming you are talking about one of the building kits. I would try an epoxy or something like walthers goo. i supposed I am biased and try to only use super glue as a last resort. Super glued joints tend to weaken with time, in my experience.

    kevin
  7. Doc Holliday

    Doc Holliday Member

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    I use gel type CA, three tubes for a buck at my local dollar store. Works great.
    Doc
  8. 60103

    60103 Pooh Bah

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    Joe: If there is any type of gap in your fitting, if the castings don't mate almost watertight, you need a gap filling superglue, not the regular stuff.
    I would go with a water rinse and then vinegar etch. After the vinegar, do not touch with your skin again -- tweezers or gloves to do the final rinse.
    I might prefer an epoxy for this job.
  9. Agatheron

    Agatheron Member

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    I'm not sure if anyone else has tried it, but superglue accelerants can also work well. The upside is an immediately cured bond, the downside is that it tends to be a bit more brittle if handled regularly. It also generates a bit of heat, but not enough to melt stuff...
  10. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

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    The other key to getting a good joint with white metal kits if to get out the file!

    The gel (gap-filling or "thick") CA is a good idea, but it will not fill large gaps... File all the joints so that they fit closely. Then use the gap-filling CA.

    BTW, the cleaning is also a good recommendation as prep for painting.

    Andrew
  11. Palmisano

    Palmisano Member

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    I've built several of the wonderful Woodland Scenics white metal kits over the years and found your basic cyanoacrylate super glue to work great. It always bonded the white metal instantly. Just make sure you have a clean mating surface like the others said. You should also become friends with Bestine. You can buy it at any hardware store. Put some on the end of a cue tip and clean the area to be glued. I also use it to wipe down parts with a rag before painting also. It completely removes oils from fingers and dirt and evaporates quickly.
  12. Glen Haasdyk

    Glen Haasdyk Active Member

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    I just finished building the WS road grader for my layout and I used 5 minute epoxy. I find that with heavier parts like the white metal epoxy will hold better in the long run than CA. I use CA for the smaller detail parts like steering wheels and the like.