Which Code?

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ukulele8421

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Oct 8, 2007
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OK, I am still a little scared about starting my first layout, but I think Im just going to start out and build for the heck of it. I have no idea about what it's going to be, but it will be cool.

My question, though. What code should I star out with on N, since this is my first layout. Code 80 or 55? Thanks a bunch.
 
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TrainNut

Ditat Deus
Sep 15, 2004
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I'd stick with 80. It is pretty much the standard and you will avoid some unnecessary headaches as this will be your first layout. Code 55 is closer to the real thing but a lot of the locomotives out there have wheel flanges that are too big and simply bump over the ties instead. Since this is your first layout, you might think about using sectional track that can be taken apart and changed over and over again. That way, if you come up with a plan that does not really work very well, you can take it apart, change it, and try again. Don't be scared... jump in and start having fun!
 
ezdays

ezdays

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Feb 3, 2003
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A door layout is good, I started out with one and actually used the hinges to get access to the wiring underneath. Doors come in all widths from 24" to 36" and are around 80" long. You can get a 30" wide hollow-core door at Home Depot for around $20.

And TrainNut is right, go with code 80 to begin with. Trackwork is fussy stuff and especially critical on code 55. Code 55 is more to scale, but still not and it does present problems to work with.
 
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ukulele8421

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OK, I have got it. I can't do a door layout, because I don't have that much space in my house for the door, unless it's used like a door. HA HA! Oh come on, that was funny! Well, I have come up with a space of 3' by 5', and I was wondering if I could use plywood or something. Would that work?
 
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ukulele8421

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Well, I looked at those layouts, and I'm just thinking to myself. I don't have enough money for all of those switches! I am looking at like a $50 budget here for the track, base board, and cork roadbed. I looked at your HO layout thinking if I could make it in N, and I came up with my version of it with a lot less switches. It will cross over it's self to make a double circuit layout, and that's were I'm stuck. I have no idea on ow to rise it. I've seen those risers, but I don't know how much they cost and how many I'd need. Oh, and maybe you can answer a question for me. Would this layout have a bad grade to get over itself? I mean, I'm always afraid of my train smashing into a bridge.

trainsthingy.jpg


Ignore the gap, I'll fix that later. I also don't know how to draw layers on this program yet, either, but this is a good enough picture for now. This is just an idea.
 
jesso

jesso

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Jul 21, 2006
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You would only need one box of risers. You would have plenty of room to do any that they sell and of the them so I would recommend 2% as that is the easiest for the engines to climb, although the higher the percentage (they have 3% and 4%) the shorter the hill. At the most you need to get the over track 2 inches high to get over almost everything. I have domestic double-stack containers (53' long 9'6" high in real life) and those will fit under 2 inches. If you plan on running older stuff, you don't need it to be that high.
 
P

PWRR-2207

Rogue Islander
Oct 3, 2007
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Possible cost cutting idea...

Hi, You could skip the cork and go with a piece of Homosate instead. If you do not glue down the track, you can also test/change your layout before you start adding scenery. Even without rail connectors or a train, it is easy to get a good visualization since what may look good on paper does not always look good in practice.

Yes, it is a little too thick usually to be used like cork but that does not stop you from cutting a roadbed profile later and adding scenery at a higher level.

The drawing looks like it came from Atlas's RTS program... If it is, "Layers" are accessible from the toolbar or from right clicking on the object and choosing properties. The toolbar way only seems to list the layers so if you want to give the layer a more meaningful name, you have to access it via right clicking to get "Properties" of an object and then right click on the default 00# name to change the name... Hey! What do you want for something that is 'free' and a good Rapid Layout Development Computer Aided Design (RLDCAD) tool ?

286th Law of Effective Communications - Define all acronyms :wink:

Providence & Worcester Railroad,
Engine Number 2207
 
J

Jim Krause

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Apr 7, 2005
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If you are still planning to use sectional code 80 track, it comes with its's own roadbed. Fifty bucks won't get you too far with sectional track unless you find a bargain in used stuff on Ebay or somewhere else.
 
6

60103

Pooh Bah
Mar 25, 2002
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If you have 3' x 5' you could take an HO 4'x8' track plan and shrink it -- changing 18" radius HO curves to 12" radius N would be approximately right. There's lots of HO 4x8s out there.
Plywood is a nice solid base, but a problem for putting nails in; if you push hard enough, you may slip and distort your track. Foam insulation (e.g. Styrofoam SM) is easier to work with, but not as sturdy and needs support. Woodland Scenics makes grades in foam that are curveable and pre-cut at a specified percent.
 
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ukulele8421

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I'm going to stick with this layout, and I have calculated that if I buy through my local hobby shop, I can afford the track, cork roadbed, and risers for just a little over $50, due to that they sell everything under the retail price. Man, that's lucky! And, I think I'm just going to beg my mom to get me the plywood. She keeps complaining that I spend to much time on the computer, so I'm going to suggest to her that if she gets me the plywood, and takes me to the store to get the track etc, that I'll spend less time on the computer, which I would. (Can I here "run-on sentence?")

Wow, that was a lot of typing. Thanks guys. If you guys have any more suggestions and tips for this, please tell. I need all the help I can get.
 
jesso

jesso

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You might want to change the interchange into another siding so that you can easily park your trains. You will also want to put in some insulated joiners on your sidings so that you can turn off the sidings when the other train is running.
 
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ukulele8421

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Well, I actually put my foot in the door today! I have made my first step to my layout! I will in fact put insulating joiners there, but I have refined the layout a little more. Here it is.
nthing.jpg

I went to my local hobby store, and I figured, Hey what the heck, I'll get something just to try it out. So, I got those "inclines" that I've been seeing. They are truly amazing. Well, I am a little ticked, though. I got the 2% inclines, and I figured out that they didn't have anything to fit on, so I am mad about that. I'll just use some foam or something under it. I also found out that the inclines are too long for the spot in the layout, so I will stack one on top of the other to come up with a 4% grade. What do you think?

Yeah, that was a lot for something so little.
 
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