Warhammer Armor and things.

Discussion in 'WarHammer40k' started by silveroxide, May 31, 2010.

  1. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    Sentinel.

    The model is finished, I just have to catch up to the picture captions.

    76. The transmission gear box parts

    77. The base with its channel trimmed out and the Gear box

    78 and 79. The swivel point for the cab is laminated,

    80. A hole is drilled into the pivot point.

    81. The cab is attached to the swivel pivot point. You can glue or leave it free to move the cabin around.

    More to come, stay tune.:wave::wave::wave:

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  2. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    Sentinel.

    Another batch of updates. Still have a bunch more pics to edit for posting,

    82. Scratched built the Auxiliary weapons point. Attached cabin to swivel platform.

    83. Relief surface for the bottom of the swivel platform.

    84. Raised panel for the bottom of the swivel platform

    85. Scratched built rear Gear box access point and placed straps around the gears box.

    86. This is the paint I use for this model. It approximates the model's color scheme.

    87. Using Paper sticks, Cut them to the required size and wrapped a strap around the pipes.

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  3. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    Sentinel.

    More updates on the Sentinel.

    88. The bottom pipe system is colored in with gun-metal pewter. Straps are also added on.

    89. The making of the ball joints. Rolled a strip of paper the width of the ball around a toothpick. Cut the sharp point off, and waited for it to set completely overnight. Once it is set, placed the shaft (tooth pick) into the chuck of the dremmel. While running the drill, I used a piece of fine sandpaper to shape the ball joint. Set it aside for later installation.

    90. Laminated the upper leg. Leave the rounded end piece on. I cut it off and had to replace it later.

    91. laminated the outside of the upper leg and cut out the center indentation carefully.

    92. Laminated the outside wheel hubs and placed them on their position.

    93. Rolled a strip around the leg shaft to extend the legs outward making it part of the gear mechanism. Painted that later Teddy Bear Tan.

    Still more to come. This is not over yet.:wave::wave::wave:

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  4. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    Sentinel.

    More updates on the legs and pads.

    94. Upper legs are done. Painted the extensions

    95. Lower leg joints. Wrapped the skin around the outside with the larger strap to the bottom facing the ball joint.

    96. The junction box of the lower leg is laminated,so drill two holes inthe bottom for the leg tubes to go in.

    97. Apply the small back brace to the junction box.

    98. Wrap the lower brace around the bottom par of the ball joint tubes.

    99. The lower ball joint section is finished, now paint the ball section a gun-metal/pewter color.

    This build is almost done with a total of 130 pictures. :wave::wave::wave:

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  5. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    Sentinel.

    I hope that this build has helped anyone trying to build this model. It is almost near the end.

    100. The middle leg strut is laminated in the center, so it will have two open ends.

    101. Attaching the lower leg strut to the ball joint leg unit.

    102. This are the outer parts of the center leg strut. Carve out the center oval carefully so as to have an indentation when done. Laminate the hub covers. The plans have only enough for two sides so I copied the section twice to have enough hubs for both sides.

    103. Attaching the legs and checking for fit. Notice the center indentations on the upper and center leg structures.

    104-105. Checking the alignment of the legs.

    The foot pads should be coming up next. See you next posting.:wave::wave::wave:

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  6. Chrispysurfer

    Chrispysurfer Member

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    This brilliant and a wonder to read. On the ball joints, I was actually thinking about how to do round ball joints and stumbled across this:
    http://www.stevespanglerscience.com/product/1388#video
    Do you think something like this would work?
    Also, quick detail question: After you paint your piece, do you go back over the lines with a pen or anything? I am doing that with my Dread to make it really stand out.
    Your build here totally convinced me I need to get a dremel......
    Thanks SO!!
  7. fett92

    fett92 New Member

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    Silveroxide,

    You have done a very nice step by step build, I have not seen many people show such a detailed build.
    You have done an awesome job, the model is really quality work.
    Just thought I would chime in and say my 2 cents.:eek::cool::thumb:
  8. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    Sentinel.


    In this case, I do not think so, those foam balls would not stand up to the abuse of board-gaming. If for a static piece or diorama, they might work. All hobbyist should invest in a dremmel sometime for modeling, it is an invaluable tool of the trade.

    As for painting, My eyesight was much better as a young-ling and a nice fine tip brush would do the edge-working. Now I have a tendency to dab the paint on and occasions I do have to use a 003 or 001 pen tip to go over some of the details. In the case of the sentinel, I used the 005 to color in the indentations of the legs and the view slits.:wave::wave::wave:
  9. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    Sentinel.


    Thank you for the comments. As mentioned before on other threads, If just one person learned or appreciated the work, then it was all worth it.:wave::wave::wave:
  10. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    Sentinel.

    Getting to the final stages.

    106-107 Laminated the footpads 2X to give them strength. The center is laminated very heavily on purpose. This is to give it depth for the ball joints later on.

    108. Used the dremmel to create a concave scoop for the ball socket.

    109. Test fitting the ball socket and ball joint.

    110. Test fitting both sockets and ball joints.

    111. Building up the pads using pieces of paper sticks (Q-Tip)

    Just a little more patience and the build will be done. See you all next posting:wave::wave::wave:

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  11. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    Sentinel.

    I am starting to work on the next project. The Land speeder.

    112, 113, 114. Making the footpads and placing them on the base.

    115. Wrapped the skin around a toothpick but recessed for the open barrel look. Place the unit on its base and the foot retainers are also attached around the ball sockets.

    116. The gun box is made by laminating to the exact shape of the box and wrapping the skin around it. This is done, so that later you can drill into it and place the gun barrel into it.

    117. Trimmed off the excess tooth pick and ready for insertion into the gun box/receiver unit.

    Just a few more pics and on to the next adventure.:wave::wave::wave:

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  12. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    Sentinel.

    Almost there at the sentinel finish line.

    Nothing much to pass on here but show the pics. The hoses at the rear of the legs were made from rolled paper and saturated with glue to stiffen them and then cut to the size needed.

    One more posting of the finished product and on to the Land Speeder.:wave::wave::wave:

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  13. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    Sentinel.

    The end is here. I hope that this thread is of use to anyone who may attempt to build this little walker. I also hope that you have enjoyed the thread as much as I did in building it. See you all soon.:thumb:

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  14. Tirick

    Tirick Member

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    I... don't know what to say. Wow, maybe?

    Your attention to detail is singular mate, that is for certain. Your work (and Armorman's) in this area really gives me hope that I can field an IG army without breaking the bank (even if it isn't tourney legal). The $ of the armour has always deterred me in the past, but this is just as good (if not better for the ease of modification) as the plastic kits. I wonder if GW really knows about this hobby. Maybe they get that at the least they'll still sell rulebooks and infantry.
  15. Kovic

    Kovic New Member

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    This model is just awesome! Incredible detail.
  16. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    Sentinel.


    Tirick; I scratched built the Catachan version a long time ago and it came out great. I did use it on some games but as the rules kept changing, I stopped playing but I do like to build the models.

    Kovic: I am glad that you enjoyed the build, My next on the list will be the Landspeeder. Stay tune for the next posting coming soon to this thread.
  17. Tirick

    Tirick Member

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    Well, to be honest, while my little ones are still little I'm not likely to play much anyway. When I do get back into the game, I doubt I'll want to play too many tourneys. I like small close game groups. Plus I'll have to teach my kids how to play... :D.
  18. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    Sentinel.


    Hopefully, by the time they are able to understand the rules and codex's. They would have made the rules more simple and less ambiguous.


    As for the Land Speeder. It is almost finished and I have to work on the captions. By tomorrow I should start posting them.:wave::wave::wave:
  19. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    Land Speeder

    Here is my next venture. The Landspeeder from Patoroch. This one has the outline of the speeder and is simplistic in the design. This model is a cross between Patoroch's and GW's. The changes are ovious as the thread continues. It came together rather well and I enjoyed doing the modifications. So sit back and enjoy the build thread.

    001. Started out with the main cabin.

    002. Laminated the back former/Bulkhead heavily. Will not need the tabs on this one.

    003-004. The inside skin was cut into sections. This is due to the thick bulkhead and it would throw the pattern out of sequence. Trimmed the side panels to the opening and glued the sections to the inside.

    Last two photos. Here are two photos of the model as to where it is now in the build sequence. You can see some of the modifications and scratched built parts here.

    See you next posting.:wave::wave::wave:

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  20. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    Land Speeder

    I had to go to GW site to get some info on the Landspeeder. Patoroch's version has a straight sided front. The GW version is angled at the nose section. Patoroch's is easier to build without those compunded curves.

    005. Laminated the center brace bar and scratched built the dashboard. the dash instruments will come later.

    006. In the center bar/brace. I cut off the bottom section. This is to allow for the center dash console.

    007-008. Laminated the center console with a notch in the rear to allow it to be placed into the compartment.

    009. The center console in place.

    010. The seats were sort of simple and plain so I embellished them. Here are the scratched built sides to the seat.

    More to come, stay tune and see you all next postings.:wave::wave::wave:

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