Two questions

billk

Active Member
Hey all:
Question one:
Is there a problem with joining the point ends of two turnouts together? Assume that you will rarely, if ever, travel on the possible "S" curve created from the two diverging rails.

Question two:
Is there a good way to lay "temporary" track? What I want to do is to make a track to allow continuous running until the second phase of tracking laying starts, then remove it.

In the diagram, the blue is the first phase permanent track, the black is the second phase permanent track, and the red the temporary track. (When the black goes in, the red comes out, so what looks like turnouts aren't.)

I guess the main thing is to lay it so that it doesn't cause operational problems, but is very easy to remove. Appearance of not a major concern. Will be putting it onto 1" or 1-1/2" thick foam.

Thanks
Bill K
 

shamus

Registered Member
Originally posted by billk
Hey all:
Question one:
Is there a problem with joining the point ends of two turnouts together? Assume that you will rarely, if ever, travel on the possible "S" curve created from the two diverging rails.
Question two:
Is there a good way to lay "temporary" track? What I want to do is to make a track to allow continuous running until the second phase of tracking laying starts, then remove it.

In the diagram, the blue is the first phase permanent track, the black is the second phase permanent track, and the red the temporary track. (When the black goes in, the red comes out, so what looks like turnouts aren't.)

I guess the main thing is to lay it so that it doesn't cause operational problems, but is very easy to remove. Appearance of not a major concern. Will be putting it onto 1" or 1-1/2" thick foam.

Thanks
Bill K

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Hi Bill,
Not a problem joining two points this way, I have many like that on my Badger Creek

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If you are using something like Homosate/Insulation board then it is easy to just track pin it all down. later when needed, just raise the pins and release the track. Might be difficult on the foam.
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BTW, I would also think about not using 1" or 1-1/2" thick foam. rather lay the track on something solid. Like 1/2" Plywood with 1/2" insulation board on top.

Shamus
 

billk

Active Member
Thanks Shamus. Unfortunately, using pink'r'blue foam is an irreversible decision. It is backed on the underside with 1/4" plywood, for what that's worth. I don't know if you ever used it (or if it is even readily avilable in the UK), but it is actually a pretty good material to use for this, especially with a plywood backing.

I'm considering using double-sided tape to secure the temp track to the roadbed and the roadbed to the foam. No ballast on the temp track, of course. My concern with that (I need to experiment) is that the thickness of the tape (X2) might be enough to cause an unacceptable change in height of the temp track.

Bill K
 

shamus

Registered Member
Hi Bill,
If you are using flexitrack, double sided sticky tape might cause a problem around curves, track tends to want to revert to its straight position. Is it possible to use some Peco (Very thin) track pins which are 1/2" long to hold it in place.
Shamus
 

billk

Active Member
Shamus - Maybe a combination of the double-sided tape and pins would be the answer. The tape to hold everything vertically, and the pins to hold everything horizontally. I've also thought about maybe dipping the pins into glue just before inserting them.
 

Cactus

New Member
I've had good luck with rubber cement for temporary track (even flex track). I mark out on the foam where the track should go. Put cork roadbed down with rubber cement. Then install the track with track nails. It holds fine for a couple of months.

It zips right up when I want to remove it.

This is all N-scale.
 

billk

Active Member
Thanks Cactus. Will the rubber cement attack the foam, or do you use a specfic kind of rubber cement or prep the foam somehow?
 

sumpter250

multiscale modelbuilder
Bill,
The new Woodland scenics "Hob-E-Tac" might work, I think it is formulated specificly for use with the W.S. foam.
Pete
 

Cactus

New Member
The rubber cement doesn't attack the foam at all.

I mark out the centerline for the rail and paint along it with rubber cement. Paint the bottom of the cork roadbed with rubber cement. Wait 2 minutes while both dry. Then apply the roadbed to the foam and it adheres.

Last fall, I even tried this:
I had a section of the layout done this way that I decided to make permanent. I simply diluted some white glue about 5:1 with water and a drop of diswashing liquid and dribbled it between the ties and along the sides of the roadbed. Capillary action pulled it between the roadbed and the foam, and also down into the split in the center of the roadbed. A lot of it also got absorbed into the cork. This dried and has been in place with no problem for about 8 months now.
 

billk

Active Member
Cactus said:
I simply diluted some white glue about 5:1 with water and a drop of dishwashing liquid and dribbled it between the ties and along the sides of the roadbed.
Gee, sounds a lot like ballasting!
 
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