Tugboat Hermes

zathros

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The lines for the Hull are tentatively finished. This picture was just for fun. Lots of deck greeblin' left to do.
 

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zathros

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Flattened Hull Sections, and Rendered Hull sections for comparison. :)
 

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zathros

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There is a model of this ship. It is not available anywhere I have seen. I know where to get scans,, but I am not interested in that.

I bring this up because I want anyone dissuade anyone who has any doubts. I lofted the hull of this ship from various lofts on the Internet, including the one on page one. I did not stick wholeheartedly to it because it did not match other lofts and I used the lines that I felt were most fair, and resembled the few pictures of this boat. Many of the lines I improved on (in my minds eye), according to the pictures I have. This is a scratch build model. Just for the record. :)
 

Rogerio Silva

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The more, the better!

There is a model of this ship. (...) Many of the lines I improved on (in my minds eye), according to the pictures I have. This is a scratch build model. Just for the record. :)

It just adds more merit to your build, Zathros! :thumb: :thumb: :cool: :cool:
 

silveroxide

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I look in now and then and the hull pattern is looking real good. I am waiting to see how you tackle the formers (ribs). Keep it up Zathros.
 

zathros

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The Ribs are the easy part. They are there already, you just don't see them because I have those layers shut off. The ribs are the lines extruded 1mm sideways, then the profile curve is extruded enough so a flat can be cut and the part is mirrored to the correct beam at that point. One could be sloppy and stop there, but it is better to lock those parts in place, duplicate all curve edges involved, then join them into one piece (removing any overlapping curves on the same plane), this is to make sure there are no double lines. Those lines are joined into 1 curve and that one curve, moved to the side a bit, is extruded as a solid, for 1mm, and you rib, or former, is made. It is at this point that one can add or extract as necessary, control points, to further shape, or fair the hull as necessary. Any slots for the for and aft connectivity can be cut at any time, even using the same longitudinal framing as the cutting tools. That way, the slots are exactly where they need be. As in any ship model, you make the framework and the attach to the deck. This is going to be bigger than I though, possible 26" to 28" inches. Since the boat was made of steel, I have to try and find some better pictures, to show the weld lines. This will make a better hull break, instead of just a seam in the middle, which I loath. :)
 

zathros

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I have a scale for the tugboat now, it's an odd number, but I needed it to be a certain size. The scale is 1/65th, ppl (point between perpendiculars, not waterline) The actual Tugboat was, before the platform and anti-aircraft gun platform on the bow was added, was 131'2.4", which is as close as anyone guesses. I guess no one wrote it down! That will make the model 24.777" long. I wanted it around 2 feet. :)
 

Rogerio Silva

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Whoa!

I have a scale for the tugboat now, it's an odd number, but I needed it to be a certain size. The scale is 1/65th, ppl (point between perpendiculars, not waterline) The actual Tugboat was, before the platform and anti-aircraft gun platform on the bow was added, was 131'2.4", which is as close as anyone guesses. I guess no one wrote it down! That will make the model 24.777" long. I wanted it around 2 feet. :)

Whoa, that would be almost 63cm!!!:eek: There'll be a lot of room for detailing it...:twisted:
 

silveroxide

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You must have one heck of a mantle piece. My remote control PT Boat is about that size and it almost covers my coffee table as a center piece. As Rogelio said, it allows for a lot of details. You are going to deed a strong keel or center spine to maintain rigidity.
 

zathros

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The rigidity comes from the formers and keel, and decking. My 28" Lilla Weneda has not warped at all and it is 28" inches long! You'll see. :)
 

goodduck

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hmm, 1/65 is odd at first thought. but than again, i do recall seen lot of wooden ship models are 1/65.
 

zathros

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Really? That makes me feel good. I needed to boat to be around 24 inches and that was the only scale that worked. Thanks Allen! :)
 

zathros

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The topside of the Hull unrolled, with the superstructure shown for reference. :)
 

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zathros

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That's coming up really cool, Zathros. Do you think one would be able to downscale it?

I have changed the same picture again, two posts ago, because the lines for the weld seams just aren't showing.:confused:

So I am trying a closer shot. In reality, the seam marks will just be a dark shade or grey. The importance of this is that the hull seam, if one is needed, can be done along a weld line, staggered, so that it is not readily visible. It also allows for the model to be made with a smooth seam, and then have every section of the hull put in place giving the appearance of a hard working boat. :)

@Rogerio, anything can be smaller but I do not know if I am releasing this. There is a model of this available. I have released very few models, and the handful had to assure me they would build the I had assurances they would build them, and in fact did. I never release models on the forums. I have had too much bad luck on these forums. I am not making any promises, never have. I have made parts for people and helped them with their models. That's been about it.
 

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Rogerio Silva

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Hmmmm...

Zathros

Too bad... :cry: But I respect that. If you don't feel comfrotable releasing it, then I'll do the only two things I can: admire your beautiful work and hope that someday I'll be able to catch up with you in quality.
Meanwhile, I would like to thank you for sharing this. Although I'm not a "ship guy", I do love ships (big ones! :mrgreen:), and this thread has really caught up my attention. :thumb: :thumb: :cool: :cool:
 
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