Most of my 10 x 6 modular layout has some form of cork on it being standard cork roadbed or thin gasket cork on the spurs that go to the side industries, feed mill and unloading ramp and the plainer mill. Now I have the benchwork up for the logging mill and log dump, 2 x 6 with a small bump out for a engine house and facilities. My question is, does this logging area have raised track, are the ties raised up on the cork, standard cork roadbed or thin gasket cork, or are they on the ground. What is the general concensis? Thanks Ron.
to cork or not
- Thread starter farmer ron
- Start date
Cork or not?
And here's another thought. What about a 1/2" - 3/4" layer of MDF for the sub base, covered with a layer of 1/2" dry wall. Then put the track right onto the drywall? I have accumulated a buch of 1" thick pieces of blue insulation board for piling on top of drywall. I am going to be doing mostly a "heavy switching required", industrial area. So lots of flat area's are OK.
And also, what is this 'Time Saver' I've heard about? It is some sort of switching scenario? Any one have a track plan?
Drew
And here's another thought. What about a 1/2" - 3/4" layer of MDF for the sub base, covered with a layer of 1/2" dry wall. Then put the track right onto the drywall? I have accumulated a buch of 1" thick pieces of blue insulation board for piling on top of drywall. I am going to be doing mostly a "heavy switching required", industrial area. So lots of flat area's are OK.
And also, what is this 'Time Saver' I've heard about? It is some sort of switching scenario? Any one have a track plan?
Drew
Looks like we got two threads going here!
Ron, it's up to you whether you you use raised roadbed or not. No roadbed could be appropriate for a branchline - it would make the distinction between the main line tracks and the possibly lower budget branch line.
Drew - I've never heard of drywall used for this. What do you think the advantages of it would be?
The Timesaver is a "puzzle" switching track plan designed by the late, great John Allen I believe. Isn't there a thread about it here, with if not diagrams, at least links to diagrams?
Ron, it's up to you whether you you use raised roadbed or not. No roadbed could be appropriate for a branchline - it would make the distinction between the main line tracks and the possibly lower budget branch line.
Drew - I've never heard of drywall used for this. What do you think the advantages of it would be?
The Timesaver is a "puzzle" switching track plan designed by the late, great John Allen I believe. Isn't there a thread about it here, with if not diagrams, at least links to diagrams?
Drew,
Go to the "Track Planning For The Future" threads, I put a link in there for CSXFan to a site which also includes the layout for the "Timesaver" switching puzzle layout.
The Timesaver is simple, small and a whole lot of fun.
Errol
Go to the "Track Planning For The Future" threads, I put a link in there for CSXFan to a site which also includes the layout for the "Timesaver" switching puzzle layout.
The Timesaver is simple, small and a whole lot of fun.
Errol
On a related but unrelated note, has anyone used cork FLOORING for their layout room??? I'm still a long ways from this, but I've seen cork used on a number of television shows, and it seems to me it would work pretty well - dampens sound, nice and soft for the feet, easily painted, etc. etc.
Not sure of the cost, though.
Not sure of the cost, though.
I use cork roadbed everywhere. I don't know why but I do. For industrial, yards or logging it is easy to create a level look using plaster and ballast while the main has a raised look. You have to start somewhere and I just find cork the easiest to use.
Drew: DO NOT !!!!!! use mdf or drywall, mdf ( medium desity fiber board) all that it is is compressed and glued fiber board, the same stuff that they make furniture out of. If you get water on mdf if will warp and swell out of shape. Drywall board on the other had is just paper backing with chalk in the center, if you get this wet it will disolve into a mush and fall apart. Even if you put blue foar board on top, when you add scenery then go to attach it down with glue and water, some of the water will seap through. I think you are asking for troubles using that stuff.
Stick with plywood or if you are just making your layout out of modules use a wood framework and just the blue foam board.
Thanks to all who replied to my cork question, grately appreciated
Ron..
Stick with plywood or if you are just making your layout out of modules use a wood framework and just the blue foam board.
Thanks to all who replied to my cork question, grately appreciated
Ron..
cork or no
have you tried AMI INSTANT ROADBED? I used it on my first 4' by 8' HO layout with good results. It held ballast well and was easy to apply to the benchwork. That rail road is now gone but the memories live on
have you tried AMI INSTANT ROADBED? I used it on my first 4' by 8' HO layout with good results. It held ballast well and was easy to apply to the benchwork. That rail road is now gone but the memories live on