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Discussion in 'Tips & Tricks' started by Catt, Aug 16, 2002.
Yep that is truly SP'ish.
now thats detication to a project waiting SIX years to snap a single photo!!! Pat
The picture just doesn't capture how cool this 'boose looks. I'm going to add some dry transfers and a coat of flat and leave it at that. It was actually found in a shed pretty much as I described it, on an old modeler's farm. I've got an Athearn SW1500 shell, lettered for the L&N and weathered the same way, waiting for a mechanism to mount it on. Just gotta kinda remind the creepy crawlies currently occupying said 'boose and shell that they are no longer welcome.
Making Metal easier to work
Working with any metal is much easier if it is annealed (softened)before starting.
Aluminium first cut your can into appropriate size pieces, on the plain side smear a squiggle of bar soap, then heat it over flame until the soap goes brown. Immediately quench in cold water, it's ready to use "note" working the aluminium will harden it again and make it brittle, Simply re-anneal it.
Brass, Copper are the opposite,
Brass & Copper, heat until flame colour or metal colour changes, then let cool naturally. And it's ready to use.
Moderators. If this is a repeat please delete it.
This is now politically incorrect but will list it anyway.
Take cigarette ashes from the ashtray on your fingertip and rub it into woodgrained plastic kits. The ashes will stick in the board lines and the grain will be better seen after an application.
I have also used this on non-glossy steel sided cars. It tones down the paint quite a bit and gives a basic weathering without much work.
Will the copper foil age or tarnish like regular copper ? Or do you have a technique for that ?
I've worked with copper foil and yes, it does tarnish with age. Just look at an old penny. It will clean up again easily if that's what you want. Also there is a coating, the name of which I can't think of off hand, that will leave a green patina that could be used on projects with a little imagination. If you want I will dig the can out and let you know what it is.
Thanks, Clark... I would appreciate that information, if it isn't too much trouble.
Bob. the stuff is called Liver of Sulphur. It is made by Maid-o'-Metal, however I'm sure that other companies make it too. I bought it over 10 years ago at a craft store so don't remember the price. They also make a coating called Plastic Luster that seals the finish. It says it is lusterous so except for special projects it probably wouldn't be of much use unless you sprayed dulcoat over the top of that. Kind of defeating the purpose though.
For Scale Model chains and the like look to Model Ship supplies for sources.
I found a 42 Link Per Inch chain that is a perfect match for the safety chain on most Locomotive handrails produced by Model Shipways part number MS0516
Fun with foam!
Well I'll start off by saying that there is a good article in the latest Model Railroader about how to construct piles of materials like coal, ballast, dirt, slag or similar stuff from foam. It's worth a look!
My tip involves using a scrap block of foam for a tool holder. A scrap piece of extruded foam, (pink, blue or green) is needed. I used the 2" thick stuff, about 4" wide and 12" long. I started sticking my tools into the foam, like screwdrivers and knives, even pliers can be stuck into the foam. The holes that are created are what holds the tools in place. Since it's easy to write on the foam you can label each hole with the tool name if you desire. On one end of the holder leave some space and mark a location for your glue bottles, (plastic and ACC) and carve out the holes to about half the thickness of the foam. You can also create holes for a paint bottle or two. Or you can simply create a new tool holder specifically for your paint supplies, (that's what I did). Be aware that paint and glue will attack the foam, so if you're pretty messy you may want to use a piece of wood for your paint and glue supplies! The nice thing about this holder is it's cheap I went by a construction site and asked for some scraps and got a backseat full! Another thing is it's portable and your tools are kept neater and easier to find!! :thumb: :thumb:
More fun with foam
Well OK more like sponge... Athearn packs their HO locomotives in a dark grey sponge material. This material can be used in some pretty interesting ways. Most of us disguard the stuff with the box, unless you keep the box, that's another story. Here are some of the ways I've used this stuff.
* I have used a piece of the sponge as a part holder for painting things like grab irons, lift bars or anything that you could stick into the sponge to hold it while you paint.
** I have cut off small squares of the sponge, (about 1/4 x 1/4) and mounted toothpick handles on them for use as paint brushes for water based paint, chalk applicators, wheel tread cleaners, (have used RailZip and alcohaul with no adverse effect).
*** Have created N scale hopper car loads, cut sponge to fit car, paint with water based paint and stick fine material to wet paint. Load is removable and cheap!!
**** Have used a long piece of sponge as a paint handle for N scale freightcars and locomotive shells. For HO I glued a 2" strip of the sponge around a paper towel cardboard tube, which you can squish down to fit in a loco or freightcar shell.
My neighbour recently gave me, her collection of Hobbytex fabric/craft paint, around 24 of them. although a bit of a pong, they thin well with turps/GP thinners, for brush or Air brush. I've tried them on card, & like Acrylics as long as you paint both sides at the same time there's no warpage. Also ok on white metal
Tips and Tricks - Rust, Water Streaks, etc.
Well, I guess I'll add to the fun.
I kind of have my own tips and tricks area on my website.
Rust, Water Streaks, etc.
You will find those tips on a page I've created called "Inspiration Yard"
I hope many of you find these techniques usefull.
Any questions, drop me an email at firstname.lastname@example.org
if ur going to make a cement secstion that crosses the rails. buy the cement. dont make it out of sand paper. it's hard and real sement looks and works better
This is the way that I do flat windows.First we will start with a list of needed items.
1 the victim (err patient)
2 clear Styrene. I reccomend that you use ,015 thick Evergreen clear (IIRC there are 2 sheets in the package.
3 a roll of ordinary masking tape.
4 several sharp (very sharp at that) pencils.
5 an exacto type knife with a supply of fresh #11 blades
6 Micro-Scale Crystal Clear or the Testors stuff.here are other products sold for the same purpose but no names come to mind.
Ok,are you ready to start?Pick a window.In the case of a locomotive I would reccomend that you start with the furthest back side window and work your way around the cab.I would also suggest that you number the windows as you make them.Keep a short reccord of what is what.Easiest way is to write down the first window you did and number from there.For example Engineer's door #1then just go from there 2-3-4- etc you don't need to write these down just number them on the masking tape.
First thing is to disasemble the loco (not needed of course if your doing a building kit)
Take the styrene and cut a strip just wider than the window opening.This may be a problem on a loco with a Veed windsheild like the PA.but make the styrene as wide as you can.
Secondly cover one side of the styrene with a piece of masking tape again wider than the window opening.Now take the styrene and insert it into the shell by the window you want to make.Now hold the styrene as tightly to the body as possible (don't let it move)Now take one of those very sharp pencils and holding it at an angle so that the point is as close to the edge of the opening draw a line completely around the inside of the opening.This will give you an outline to follow when cutting out the window.When cutting out the window cut just to the outside of the pencil line.By doing this you will have what I call a fudge factor.Now try the window in the opening from the outside.What you want is for the window to just ever so slightly recess in the opening.Do all the windows numbering them inn seqence.
Now that you have that part done take a black marker and run it around the window frame.Once that dries you can start installing the windows by first removing the masking tape.Now using a toothpick (forgot that on the list ;-() once you have the window in place to apply the window glue of your choice on the inside of the cab..Be sure to use a very small amount of glue and keep it right on the edge of the window.
I realize this is rather longwinded,but the process itself gets quicker everytime you do it.
Small, cheap clamps
I was at a 99cent store and bought a bag (50 pack) of miniature clothespins that I use as clamps for scratchbuilding and kitbashing. Here's a link to a different source, but they're price is higher.
http://www.ortonage.com/ext/owpm.dll?vsr&e=3&kw=clothes pins&sw=miniature clothespins
A truly realistic road
I learned this trick at a local hobby shop. To get a good looking road mix play sand with black latex paint. A warning, it will add thickness so in a big city type scene add thickness by glueing down something. It's easy to make it thicker in the center like real roads(drainage).
a tip that I learned YEARS ago, in the directions to a plastic model kit, is to use a plastic or wood snap-type clothespin as a brush holder to clean your brush in turpentine, or a container of water. Then you can suspend the brush in the container, leaving your hands free.
One thing to beware of, though, ecspesially if you use a wooden clothespin-if you're not careful, it can make the container top-heavy, and it will spill (DON'T ask how I learned this!!sign1 )
yea, I remember reading an article in MODEL RAILROADER some time ago about that one about making the hopper or gondola loads out of it.