Tips-n-Tricks

Discussion in 'Tips & Tricks' started by Catt, Aug 16, 2002.

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  1. fifer

    fifer Active Member

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    Yep that is truly SP'ish.


    Mike
  2. belg

    belg Member

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    now thats detication to a project waiting SIX years to snap a single photo!!! Pat
  3. shaygetz

    shaygetz Active Member

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    The picture just doesn't capture how cool this 'boose looks. I'm going to add some dry transfers and a coat of flat and leave it at that. It was actually found in a shed pretty much as I described it, on an old modeler's farm. I've got an Athearn SW1500 shell, lettered for the L&N and weathered the same way, waiting for a mechanism to mount it on. Just gotta kinda remind the creepy crawlies currently occupying said 'boose and shell that they are no longer welcome.:eek: :rolleyes: :D
  4. Jodam

    Jodam Member

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    Making Metal easier to work

    Working with any metal is much easier if it is annealed (softened)before starting.
    Aluminium first cut your can into appropriate size pieces, on the plain side smear a squiggle of bar soap, then heat it over flame until the soap goes brown. Immediately quench in cold water, it's ready to use "note" working the aluminium will harden it again and make it brittle, Simply re-anneal it.

    Brass, Copper are the opposite,
    Brass & Copper, heat until flame colour or metal colour changes, then let cool naturally. And it's ready to use.

    Moderators. If this is a repeat please delete it.
    Cheers Damien.
  5. DougF

    DougF New Member

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    This is now politically incorrect but will list it anyway.

    Take cigarette ashes from the ashtray on your fingertip and rub it into woodgrained plastic kits. The ashes will stick in the board lines and the grain will be better seen after an application.

    I have also used this on non-glossy steel sided cars. It tones down the paint quite a bit and gives a basic weathering without much work.

    Doug
  6. Iron Goat

    Iron Goat Member

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    Will the copper foil age or tarnish like regular copper ? Or do you have a technique for that ?

    Thanks...
    Bob
  7. Pitchwife

    Pitchwife Dreamer

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    I've worked with copper foil and yes, it does tarnish with age. Just look at an old penny. It will clean up again easily if that's what you want. Also there is a coating, the name of which I can't think of off hand, that will leave a green patina that could be used on projects with a little imagination. If you want I will dig the can out and let you know what it is.
  8. Iron Goat

    Iron Goat Member

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    Thanks, Clark... I would appreciate that information, if it isn't too much trouble.

    Bob
  9. Pitchwife

    Pitchwife Dreamer

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    Bob. the stuff is called Liver of Sulphur. It is made by Maid-o'-Metal, however I'm sure that other companies make it too. I bought it over 10 years ago at a craft store so don't remember the price. They also make a coating called Plastic Luster that seals the finish. It says it is lusterous so except for special projects it probably wouldn't be of much use unless you sprayed dulcoat over the top of that. Kind of defeating the purpose though.
  10. Chessie1973

    Chessie1973 Member

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    For Scale Model chains and the like look to Model Ship supplies for sources.

    I found a 42 Link Per Inch chain that is a perfect match for the safety chain on most Locomotive handrails produced by Model Shipways part number MS0516
  11. 2slim

    2slim Member

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    Fun with foam!

    Well I'll start off by saying that there is a good article in the latest Model Railroader about how to construct piles of materials like coal, ballast, dirt, slag or similar stuff from foam. It's worth a look!

    My tip involves using a scrap block of foam for a tool holder. A scrap piece of extruded foam, (pink, blue or green) is needed. I used the 2" thick stuff, about 4" wide and 12" long. I started sticking my tools into the foam, like screwdrivers and knives, even pliers can be stuck into the foam. The holes that are created are what holds the tools in place. Since it's easy to write on the foam you can label each hole with the tool name if you desire. On one end of the holder leave some space and mark a location for your glue bottles, (plastic and ACC) and carve out the holes to about half the thickness of the foam. You can also create holes for a paint bottle or two. Or you can simply create a new tool holder specifically for your paint supplies, (that's what I did). Be aware that paint and glue will attack the foam, so if you're pretty messy you may want to use a piece of wood for your paint and glue supplies! The nice thing about this holder is it's cheap I went by a construction site and asked for some scraps and got a backseat full! Another thing is it's portable and your tools are kept neater and easier to find!! :thumb: :thumb:

    2slim
  12. 2slim

    2slim Member

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    More fun with foam

    Well OK more like sponge... :D Athearn packs their HO locomotives in a dark grey sponge material. This material can be used in some pretty interesting ways. Most of us disguard the stuff with the box, unless you keep the box, that's another story. Here are some of the ways I've used this stuff.

    * I have used a piece of the sponge as a part holder for painting things like grab irons, lift bars or anything that you could stick into the sponge to hold it while you paint.

    ** I have cut off small squares of the sponge, (about 1/4 x 1/4) and mounted toothpick handles on them for use as paint brushes for water based paint, chalk applicators, wheel tread cleaners, (have used RailZip and alcohaul with no adverse effect).

    *** Have created N scale hopper car loads, cut sponge to fit car, paint with water based paint and stick fine material to wet paint. Load is removable and cheap!!

    **** Have used a long piece of sponge as a paint handle for N scale freightcars and locomotive shells. For HO I glued a 2" strip of the sponge around a paper towel cardboard tube, which you can squish down to fit in a loco or freightcar shell.

    2slim :thumb:
  13. Jodam

    Jodam Member

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    My neighbour recently gave me, her collection of Hobbytex fabric/craft paint, around 24 of them. although a bit of a pong, they thin well with turps/GP thinners, for brush or Air brush. I've tried them on card, & like Acrylics as long as you paint both sides at the same time there's no warpage. Also ok on white metal
  14. rdivizio

    rdivizio Member

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    Tips and Tricks - Rust, Water Streaks, etc.

    Well, I guess I'll add to the fun.
    I kind of have my own tips and tricks area on my website.
    www.modeltrainsweathered.com
    Rust, Water Streaks, etc.
    You will find those tips on a page I've created called "Inspiration Yard"
    I hope many of you find these techniques usefull.
    Any questions, drop me an email at rdivizio@modeltrainsweathered.com
    Rich Divizio
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
  15. Colton_modeler

    Colton_modeler Member

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  16. Collyn

    Collyn Member

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    A truly realistic road

    I learned this trick at a local hobby shop. To get a good looking road mix play sand with black latex paint. A warning, it will add thickness so in a big city type scene add thickness by glueing down something. It's easy to make it thicker in the center like real roads(drainage).
  17. stary

    stary Member

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    brush holder

    a tip that I learned YEARS ago, in the directions to a plastic model kit, is to use a plastic or wood snap-type clothespin as a brush holder to clean your brush in turpentine, or a container of water. Then you can suspend the brush in the container, leaving your hands free.
    One thing to beware of, though, ecspesially if you use a wooden clothespin-if you're not careful, it can make the container top-heavy, and it will spill (DON'T ask how I learned this!!sign1 )
  18. stary

    stary Member

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    yea, I remember reading an article in MODEL RAILROADER some time ago about that one about making the hopper or gondola loads out of it.
  19. Revell-Fan

    Revell-Fan Co-Administrator Administrator Moderator

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    BUMPED for priority reasons - do not bump in old threads.

    Revell-Fan
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