Cool trick I use. PRO's + Relatively cheap. + Great for areas where you don't have room to hot-glue or provide internal support. + Great for "thickening" areas or even producing windows. + Provides a good amount of "water-proofing" against accidental spills (of glass-cleaner or whatever) + Allows use of a damp cloth for cleaning dust from model in future + Gives model a nice "plastic-like" sheen to model CON's -can certainly take a lot of time to do -reflects light, can cause blurring and "bright spot reflections" when trying to take pictures of model afterward its built WHAT'S NEEDED Buy the 2-inch wide super-strength clear tape from a place like Zellers and "coat" one or both sides of all parts with tape after printing but before cutting/scoring. MAKE SURE the tape is the "clear" or "ultra-clear" type and not that cheaper crud that results in a slightly yellow off-colorization of white, otherwise you'll have to re-balance the colors of your prints since that slightly-yellow tape will tend to make blues turn slightly green and reds slightly pink. HOW TO TELL: view the roll of tape from the side (as if looking through the spool). If the tape is relatively clear then it has no color to it, but if its yellow or yellowish then it'll cause a very-slight color-change to anything you tape over. If piece is over 2-inches wide place one length of tape then use a second strip with minimal overlap at the edge (1/8th-inch is good). As long as the tape has no color to it then it won't really be noticeable. Try to do overlaps along folds or other areas where it won't be too noticeable. Then continue with normal scoring of the folds with a rular prior to cutting and folding. You may find a few areas need scoring more than once depending on how many layers of tape is present.