I just got mine ( #971) yesterday, and I am both pleased and dissappointed. Luckily, I think this is a great starting point for a super detailed E60CP Appearance- Its still a beautiful model (if you like boxes of course!) for standard line bachmann, atleast in my opinion. The paint job is definitely more crisp, and somewhat improved. However, I feel the "Amtrak" on the side of the locomotive is to fat, and so in that respect, the old "951" E60CP was alittle closer. the New E60CP also has a little "F" denoting the front end, a detail the old model lacked. One other issue is that the insulators don't appear to be painted, they are just white plastic. There appears to be issues with #974, since it has been reported 974 never was in phase III until after its renumbering into the 600 series as an MA. #975 though appears to have been in the Phase III, so that might be an easy fix. I'm fairly certain #975 also had an AEM7 style pantograph on the "back" pantograph at one point, so that would make a unique model. ( the front end of the locomotive being where all the roof top vents are) The headlight is yellow ( thankfully not that ungodly blue LED bachmann has been using), although some claim it is to dim, but i think its fine. The headlight is correctly spaced (a problem with American GK E60s). The number boards are nearly flush. Speaking of flush, the windshields and windows are actually in the the windows, (if that makes sense to you), rather than being a plastic piece on the inside that didn't look right. Still, the windshield wipers are molded on. As far as molded on goes, there is still some issues with that. the grab irons are still molded on ( although they don't look that bad in my opinion). the wind deflectors are actually molded on to,( they were also molded on in the old model). Speaking of the old model, alot is the same (like the horns, and my personal favorite, the ULTRA BENDY CAB STEPS. Admit it, you like them to. they'll never break!) as far as the body shell is concerned, except for two details One- FULL PILOT! thats right, a totally correct pilot (American GK pilots were totally square, and not bevelled, which needs work). even though there are only bumps for MU hoses, they are in the right spot for future addition. the only thing that lacks in my opinion is that there is no pilot step. this could be made though. Two- upper headlights. This is dissappointing. rather than keeping them clear and painting them, its just solid plast (part of the shell) painted white and red. the class lights are also painted on bumps in the shell. as far as the Pantographs go, they are alright. In the folded position, i think they still stick up to much, but its not so bad. they are in fact springloaded, so they stay up. they look nice as well. My only real complaint is that the pantograph shoes are VERY limited in movement, because the "arms" of the pantograph extend enough to prevent the full motion of the shoe, which will make catenary operations irratating. there is extra insulator detail as well. So as far as appearance goes, I rate it pretty high up there, its definitely not a dinky model, it beats out Blue box kits, and some other things, but not Athearn RTR. If you like NEC locomotives like this one though, this shouldn't be a problem for you. I call it a Low A or a High B. Performance- Yeah, this is where the E60CP runs into problems. Like most bachmanns, it has a growly buzzy motor. it will run well at kinda slow speeds, and does do a good job zooming around at high speeds (in fact, the faster you run it, the quieter it appears to get). Keep in mind though that it is not broken in yet, so it will probably start working alittle better soon. It managed to pull an 8 car train of Walthers Horizon commuter cars, which is a real feat when you are pulling it through 22 inch curves (even my Atlas U34CH and other commuter locos can't seem to do it well. So far, only the GG1/Challenger has been so successful through a curve with 8 full length cars). It has Mchenry type couplers with a copper spring holding the knuckle in place (better than the plastic leaf springs!) Of course, the DCC on Board is a nice thing to have, especially since i don't want to be installing anymore decoders (i know i have to though, i need to finish my NJ transit E60CH). So as far as performance, its a solid B. Could have been better, and a little quieter. its on par with your average Athearn Bluebox. BUT WAIT! THERES MORE! Don't be disheartened by the flaws mentioned, most can be fixed. AS with any model, there is almost ALWAYS room for added on detail. Things you can do the help this model out (or have fun projects with): 1. Wire Grab Irons- just shave the old ones off with a hobby knife ( if you do it right, the paint job will be fine), and just get some thin wire of your choice, and a pinvise with appropriate bit. Problem solved. 2. Pilot Details- Never a bad thing to add M.U. Hoses. Also, often times there are cables hanging from the pairs of HEP receptacles (the little ones on the pilot, not the larger pairs recessed in the "nose"). this can be modeled with fine guage copper wire that has been stripped and painted black, and then inserted into a hole drilled in the Hep Receptacle. use your favorite brand MU cable. If you want to kick it up a notch, you can try drilling a few holes in the pilot where the steps should be, and slowly filing it down to the right size. It take patience, but can be done. 3. Real Wind Deflectors- On a boxy locomotive like this, anything that protrudes is an obvious thing. the E60CP (and ALL other E60 variants) is no acception. Detail associates makes brass wind deflectors that look great, but are a headache. Still cool in the end though! Believe or not, the model actually already has them. they look like barely noticeable protrusions from the "end facing" side of the large square windows 4. Clear lenses for class lights and upper lights- Especially the upper lights. the red is like the rear marker on this thing. it should be lights. just drill the right holes, and have the right lenses. ( measure it out!) 5. Correct numbers- These are models of E60CPs. However, not all E60s were the CP. Many more were the E60CH version. only 951-956 were actually a CP unit. Luckily, this means you only need to switch out the 7 with a 5 in the case of my model. the only problem here is if you have an old Bachmann and don't want double numbers, in which case, you will need to switch out the last digit to. 6. Fix the pantographs- Shave off a VERY tiny bit in a diagnol fashion on the ends of the pantographso that the shoe is horizontal when the arm is fully raised. I think the arms are also metal. it seems possible to make them overhead compatiable if so desired. 7. Underbody detail- Just add some cables from the axles going into the locomotive, like you would any GE-C type locomotive. adding air filters and other underbody details help to. this goes for most other RTR and kit locomotives as well. 8. Get a new motor- I haven't opened the locomotive, but if a better motor can be had, i'd say go for it. 9. ULTRA BENDY CAB STEPS- Yeah, this model has had these for the last 30 years. I just feel the need to call attention to how awesome they are. When you think about it, they are pretty resilient, and i'm surprised other companies haven't tried similar things on their models in such situations. Sadly, for those of you hoping to get an E60MA unit out of one of these ( or a CH for that matter), you have alot of work to do. the E60CP version has different roof detail than the E60MA or CH, the most noticeable being the two boxes right behind the cab, as well as a different rooftop fan arrangement. Hopefully, If you buy this model you will enjoy it. I know I will.