Testor's Dullcote, substitutes?

Bikerdad

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I've seen a fair amount of mention of Testor's Dullcote, and, given a neurotically cheap streak where hobby paints are concerned, I am interested in knowing exacty why Dullcote is so special, and what potential substitutes for it would be...

Respectfully, BD
 
C

Catt

I've seen a fair amount of mention of Testor's Dullcote, and, given a neurotically cheap streak where hobby paints are concerned, I am interested in knowing exacty why Dullcote is so special, and what potential substitutes for it would be...

It's special because it gives a flat finish ready for your weathering.Potential substitutes would be any clear finish that dries flat and is compatible with either the paint you used and/or the material your model is made of.
 

Vic

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Originally posted by Charlie
I use Floquil Flat Finish...but to spray it on, you'll need an airbrush.

Floquil Flat Finish also comes in a spray can but usually you have to special order it. AND It costs about twice as much as Dullcote so maybe that's the reason everybody likes Dullcoat. Dullcoat is a lacqure based product and has a lot of "tooth" to it. The same goes for Floquil Flat Finish.

There are lots of flat acrylic craft sprays that will work well too. BUT be sure the can has a fine spray nozzle or it will make a mess.

If you want to brush paint a flat finish with virtually no brush marks try some Polly Scale Flat Finish.

I've used Krylon Krystal Klear Flat with good results too.
 

Russ Bellinis

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If you use denatured alcohol to thin any paint for spraying, be sure to let the paint on the model dry thoroughly before using Dull Coat. If there is any alcohol left that has not evaporated out of the finish, it will turn Dull Coat milky.
 

George D

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I ran into the milky surface problem after painting a boxcar with Dulcote, then giving it a wash of alcohol and black shoe dye. In desperation I hit it with Dulcote again and it cleared it up.
George
 

ezdays

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The original question was one of economy. Since Dullcoat is lacquer-based and cost about four times as much as flat lacquer from the Home Depot I would suggest buying that over anything you can find in a hobby shop. I've tried both and can see no difference, except cost.

Don
 

Bikerdad

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Deft Semi-gloss

Sounds like a plan, flat lacquer from the Borg. Just as an FYI, Deft Semi-gloss (which is my favored lacquer for woodworking, so I have some around) doesn't look right ...

I sprayed some last night on Otto's Parts (which is actually going to be a bank), and it's too shiny. I was kinda hoping the "semi" would outweigh the "gloss." The sheen is just right (IMHO) for furniture, but not for itsy bitsy N scale buildings. sigh... well, at least it didn't cost me anything to find out, and Otto's has some protection for the moment.
 

ezdays

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Originally posted by 60103
One thing to watch for when you use hardware store substitutes is how thick the finished coat is. A coat that would protect a car body may completely obscure the detail on an HO car.
Good point. Krylon has a "Matt Finish" that I've used as a fixative on paper. I've been playing with it on some cars and it seems to do OK on N scale stuff.

Incidentally, if you print something on your color jet printer and don't want it to run if it got wet, try either the "Matt Finish" or "Fixative" from Krylon. They are available in art and craft supply stores.

Don
 
Originally posted by Russ Bellinis
If you use denatured alcohol to thin any paint for spraying, be sure to let the paint on the model dry thoroughly before using Dull Coat. If there is any alcohol left that has not evaporated out of the finish, it will turn Dull Coat milky.

But there can be times when the reaction between Dull-Cote and alcohol can be put to good use. In the photo below, I deliberately dribbled alcohol on the tank after spraying it a few minutes earlier with Dull-Cote. I wanted the appearance of lime and hard water deposits on a rusty old water tank. This was the initial result:
 

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