Hi, John!
Although it's rough on the blades, I simply cut the tabs that hold the rails to the photo-etch frame using an X-Acto knife, #11 blade. I also trimmed them using a pair of scissors, but the X-Acto knife is best for closer cutting chores, and works quite effortlessly on this small etching material. For the most part I was trimming the parts at the cross rails, which was thinner than the stanchions. No problems encountered, but I suggest using a ruler to prevent cutting errors and to hold the rest of the part firmly to the cutting surface.
They were glued in place using nothing but white glue, Elmer's being my brand of choice. I applied it, as I do with most of the gluing jobs, using a small brush I keep in a small bowl of water just for this purpose. A little dab to the bottom of the stanchion posts, and then a bit more once it starts to set around the base for good measure, and it's good enough to keep it in place. The ease of using photo etch has really surprised me, and I really wish they offered more of this sort of thing in 1/400 scale, like radars, cleats, fittings, etc. As it is, I had to scratch build the railings on the ladders themselves, but that's better than having to build all the railings.
As with the rest of the model, it's painted with acrylic modeling paints. I use a brand from Model Expo, a mail order house located in Florida, and it's their own home brand, called Model Shipways Paints. It covers very well, thins and cleans with tap water and is based on fine grained pigments so I experience very little problems in applying too much if I watch what I am doing. The rails can be pre-painted to a certain degree but, being the sort who looks for trouble, I waited until it was glued in place before then taking small brush to railing and painting them. I didn't need more than two fine coats to get what you see in the pictures.
Big thing to keep in mind, this stuff is really delicate so you really have to be careful not to distort the piece in handling it. I tried to handle it as little as possible, just to measure, cut and glue in place. That's one reason I decided to wait until it was in place before painting. It can be easily manipulated, as I will have to show when I put them on the transom/fantail, which requires that the rail be curved around from one side to the other; the key is to gently manipulate the piece, using forming adds like a dowel to help impart the curve you need, but to do so ever so gently and gradually lest you might impose a deformation in the piece, usually in the worst possible and most delicate place. :shock: But, like anything else, work with it a bit and you get a good feel for what you can and shouldn't do with it.
Hope this provides answers to some of your questions, John. If I missed anything let me know and I will sure try and tell you what I did.
Cheers!
Jim