I'm no expert at this so I've got to ask...how to you allow all the objects in the photo to be in focus when taking a close up picture? My digital camera has lots of settings (and I actually read the owners manual for a change) but I can never seem to get a photo like the first one below with all the screen in focus. Is it a depth of field issue? All you out there that take great photo's of your layout...how do you do it? The other two pictures were taken to prove that it will focus, even through or past near objects...but I can't get multiple things (like all three Southern diesels) in focus like I'd be standing on a hill taking it for real.
Some photo help please...
- Thread starter Herc Driver
- Start date
Herc, NICE engines!:thumb: hey, i know of a program you can D/L for free off the net that will help you out with your problem. i myself don't use it as my camera doesn't really give me the problems you are going through, but MANY others just like you use a program to fix the depth quality. PROBLEM, i am sorry to say i cant remember the name of the program
...HOWEVER, if you go to Z.net or C.nets free d/l's you should be able to find it. cripes man, i am sorry thats all i can give you, but i hope it will help. GOOD LUCK! -Deano
...HOWEVER, if you go to Z.net or C.nets free d/l's you should be able to find it. cripes man, i am sorry thats all i can give you, but i hope it will help. GOOD LUCK! -DeanoI am not sure that you can fix a focus/depth of field problem after the fact.
And yes - it is a greater depth of field you are looking for. The easiest "work around" is to consider it a distance shot - as if you were indeed standing on that hill. Back up, and use the (optical) zoom on the camera as if you were really there. That will also give you some depth compression - effectively flattening the scene, much as you would get in the "real world".
The other option is to go to a manual mode (apature priority) and choose a low f-stop number (small f-stop, big depth of field; big f-stop, small depth of field).
Andrew
And yes - it is a greater depth of field you are looking for. The easiest "work around" is to consider it a distance shot - as if you were indeed standing on that hill. Back up, and use the (optical) zoom on the camera as if you were really there. That will also give you some depth compression - effectively flattening the scene, much as you would get in the "real world".
The other option is to go to a manual mode (apature priority) and choose a low f-stop number (small f-stop, big depth of field; big f-stop, small depth of field).
Andrew
Herc! i remember the program you need!!!:thumb: its Helicon Focus, last i knew you could go to their website and D/L it for a 30 day trail. this program is awesome!!!:thumb: sorry man, but i just couldn't remember the name of it when i first posted, i have a memory like an ice cubeops: . (remember the 70's and 80's? really? i barely dotooth1 , rough time for me. ) anyways...good luck!:thumb: -Deano
its Helicon Focus, last i knew you could go to their website and D/L it for a 30 day trail. this program is awesome!!!:thumb: sorry man, but i just couldn't remember the name of it when i first posted, i have a memory like an ice cubeops: . (remember the 70's and 80's? really? i barely dotooth1 , rough time for me. ) anyways...good luck!:thumb: -DeanoTripod, f22 or f32 if your lense will do that, and more than likely a long exposure time.
Another trick is to take two or three separate photos, each one with a different focal point and then merge these pictures in Photoshop and presto, the entire scene will be in focus.
Of course I'm talking digital here. Have never really tried this, but have read about it at least twice.
Another trick is to take two or three separate photos, each one with a different focal point and then merge these pictures in Photoshop and presto, the entire scene will be in focus.
Of course I'm talking digital here. Have never really tried this, but have read about it at least twice.
Check out this link to Lance Mindheim's photos of a Miami based model rr. The photo linked was layered from 4 shots, he mentions the software, which is free. Be sure to check out the other pics too!
http://www.lancemindheim.com/vacant_lot.htm
http://www.lancemindheim.com/vacant_lot.htm
Thank guys!!! I'd like to get some better quality pictures posted than what I have now. Thanks again.
L
lester perry
You have that backwards. You want a big F stop number. The bigger the number the smaller the opening. When you do this you have to use a slower shutter speed and probably a tripod. Check out some of my pics. I use small aperture long exposure with timer and tripod. many of my pics use no extra lighting, only what is available in layout room. Sometimes I use extra lighting to get pronounced shadows.MasonJar said:
Les
I use Helicon focus, the layering of many photos with different focus lengths is absolutely amazing... With a macro lens and about 15-20 shots of the exact same spot, and same exposure, just changing the focus length incrementally until all the depth of field is covered, I can literally include objects from three inches to seven feet away, all in fine focus...
There was a pretty in depth (no pun intended) article about using Helicon focus only about one or two issues ago in - I think - MRC. The results and examples were awesome. If I can find that issue in all this unpacking mess I'll let you know.
Harpo
Harpo
I do the same thing as Lance. But usually I just place my models in front of sky shots.
Here's one I did just today with my unfinished sceniced ore Hill depot(Scratchbuild Challenge).You can see that the track needs to be ballasted.
Central New Englands container train, led by retro paint SD70M, holds Ore Hill siding, while Connecticut DOT P32AC rushes commuters to Hartford.
Here's one I did just today with my unfinished sceniced ore Hill depot(Scratchbuild Challenge).You can see that the track needs to be ballasted.
Central New Englands container train, led by retro paint SD70M, holds Ore Hill siding, while Connecticut DOT P32AC rushes commuters to Hartford.
Attachments
That's a nice shot! What makes it so (for me) is the power line running across the shot (just like in real life where you can't pose pictures...and the shadow on the building by the coupler or the P42. Well done. BTW...any more shots of that Genesis diesel would be great...I've been thinking about getting one for my layout in Amtrak Phase 4 colors.
Unfortunatly....No..Its the only one I have so far. The P32(CDOT could'nt afford the 42) was on display at my LHS for three years. I painted it in a "What if" Connnecticut Department Of Tranportation theme and detailed with Gold Models detail parts. It was an undec I bought a few years ago,when Athearn first released them. The decals are from Microscale CDOT Commuter set for the Walthers Horizon coaches. I also did a couple of the Walthers coaches and cab car in CDOT, beause at the time, they didn't offer it in that scheme. A couple of months after i finished them, Walthers released them. OH Well....
If you'd like, I can take a couple more pics.
BTW, The wire is real life. It accidently got into my shot. But your right...Can't pose a model like that. The building behind the Genesis is real world also.
If you'd like, I can take a couple more pics.
BTW, The wire is real life. It accidently got into my shot. But your right...Can't pose a model like that. The building behind the Genesis is real world also.
Sorry for the delay
I found it! The Helicon focus article - an excellent one - is in the January issue of "Model Railroading". The examples shown are absolutely stunning...
Harpo
I found it! The Helicon focus article - an excellent one - is in the January issue of "Model Railroading". The examples shown are absolutely stunning...
Harpo