Slow glue for a slow guy

Discussion in 'Scratchin' & Bashin'' started by slekjr, Dec 29, 2007.

  1. slekjr

    slekjr Member

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    Well fellows, I have recently discovered that as I age I get slower. Proof of this is that it took 20 years to realize I have slowed down.
    Anyhow, I was attempting to assemble a car kit and it requires ca glue to install the grab irons and hand rails. (metal to plastic). I'm not fast enough because the CA sets before I get the part in place so I need a slow version and would really like to know what you guys are using. (time to pick it up two or three times, then locate the holes:mrgreen:)
    I really love the kits and don't want to give up for the easy option.
    Thanks
    Charlie.
  2. steamhead

    steamhead Active Member

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    Hi...The parts to be glued should be in place BEFORE you apply the CA. Then use a small tube tip or other tiny instrument to apply just the teeniest amount of glue at the joint, otherwise you run the risk of having the glue run all over the place....
  3. nachoman

    nachoman Guest

    If you are using thin CA, the parts should be held in position prior to applying the glue. My issue is applying a small drop of CA without making a mess.

    Or, you can buy the slow, thick CA, and apply a small drop to the parts prior to positioning them. In this way, it would work like more traditional glue.

    I generally avoid using CA when I can. I find the bonds lose strength after a year or so, and the details begin falling off.

    Kevin
  4. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

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    I'm not a big fan of ca, but there are situations when it's the best choice for a particular job. My main use of it is to secure metal grabirons on plastic or resin kits. To do this, if first install all of the grabirons through the holes in the carbody. I then place a spacer of sheet styrene between the grabs and the carbody, push the grabs tight against the spacer, then use a suitable tool to bend over the ends of the wire on the inside of the car. When all grabs have been thus installed (don't leave the spacer in place), I push the grabs from the inside to ensure that they're the proper distance from the carbody, then apply ca straight from the bottle, on the inside of the car. Usually, you can do one corner of the car at a time. I often blot the excess ca with a tissue, as I just make a pass or two with the glue, rather than attempt to hit each grab individually. If you leave the spacer in place, capillary action will draw the ca through the holes and under the spacer, glueing it in place and marring the carside. wall1
    I use the cheapest ca available, so I'm not too concerned with getting high mileage out of a container of it - slather it on and you're done. I find that it's most economical to do several cars at a sitting, as the shelf life of ca is similar to that of a fruit fly.
    Kevin is right about the bond failing over a period of time. That's why it's important that the wire extends through to the interior of the car and that the ends are bent over. Ca works best when there's minimum clearance (a good mechanical fit) between parts.

    Wayne
  5. ChadYelland

    ChadYelland Member

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    CA?? I'm going thru my glue bottles trying to figure out the acronym... CC- contact cement, WG-white glue,,??
  6. steamhead

    steamhead Active Member

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    CA=cyanoacrylate....
  7. 60103

    60103 Pooh Bah

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    We used to call it ACC for alpha cyanoacrylate cement. If you read older magazines you'll see that. (Super glue)
  8. ezdays

    ezdays Out AZ way

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    ... or Crazy Glue.

    Me, if I need time with some long-setting glue, I'd go with epoxy. Not a bad choice for metal to plastic, but it doesn't hide as well as CA.