Sketchup, Pepakura, Inkscape, Gimp, et al...

Discussion in 'Gallery & Designs' started by bclemens, Feb 13, 2008.

  1. bclemens

    bclemens Member

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    Thanks, everyone- I look forward to seeing the results too...:confused:

    Good question, Eric. When I did the design in Sketchup I did it with no thickness on the parts, but I knew I would be building it with 1/16 inch card stock.

    The reason I didn't use any thickness in the Sketchup model was so when I unfold the components in Pepakura the parts would be as simple as possible.

    So I decided that each piece in Sketchup would represent the front (or top) face of the real cardboard piece. Then I made sure that the final dimension of any parts that connected to it behind or below were reduced by 1/16 inch on the edge that connected to it. Thinking like that and being careful seemed to work out.

    Cheers!
    Bruce
  2. bclemens

    bclemens Member

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    Yak 15 Wing Structure done

    I designed the wing structure today. As with the fuselage, this is intended to be built in 1/16" card.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Cheers!
    Bruce
  3. lriera

    lriera Member

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    I like it very much, Bruce. Good job.
  4. Lex

    Lex Dollmaker

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    I can see where this is going... A super-detailed Yak model! Keep up the work!!
  5. bclemens

    bclemens Member

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    More Design and Reality

    Thanks. Lluis. Yes, Lex, that is my hope at least...
    Today I implemented the wing structure design in card.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Below is the underside showing the wheel well boxes.

    [​IMG]

    I've begun skinning the nose in Sketchup:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    But before any real paper skins go on, I have the engine intake and exhaust to do, the landing gear, tail wheel, cockpit and canopy.

    Loads of fun!
    Cheers!
    Bruce
  6. Lex

    Lex Dollmaker

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    This looks really fun... Just like a commercial kit... You have potentials Bruce!!
  7. KenG

    KenG New Member

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    I just picked up on this thread and am amazed at all the effort your putting into this. I downloaded Sketchup and am starting to learn it. Thanks for the inspiration.:thumb:
  8. KenG

    KenG New Member

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    How did you draw the formers(frames) in Sketchup? Did you import a drawing of each section and then move it into position? ---Ken
  9. bclemens

    bclemens Member

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    How I Do Formers

    Hi, KenG,
    Good luck with the Sketchup! I hope you find it to your liking. So far it seems to do everything I need for my models...

    To answer your question, I did all the design in Sketchup. I do a part at a time and then make it into a "group" so I can move it around. Here's the process I use:

    First, I found a very good 3-view of the Yak 15 that I imported into Sketchup:

    [​IMG]

    As you see, I moved them into the proper position so that when I select front, side or top view, the correct drawing is visible. And at this stage I scaled the drawings so that the model would be 1/33rd scale.

    This side-view drawing has cross-sections at various stations through the fuselage. That's a real advantage.

    [​IMG]

    I used each cross-section to create a former. Then I added additional ones in between. I began by simply drawing a rectangle right on the face of the drawing of the cross-section B-B.

    [​IMG]

    Then I added a semicircle on the top...

    [​IMG]

    and on the bottom.

    [​IMG]

    This pretty much created the former. In other instances I might need to use a Bezier curve (more complex shape) instead of a semicircle. If I remember correctly, the Bezier curve is an add-in for Sketchup. Google "Sketchup Bezier curve" and I'm sure you'll find it.

    Next I added a rectangle where the 1/16th inch cardboard of my main former goes through:

    [​IMG]

    and I selected that rectangle and deleted the surface and two end lines, leaving two separate parts.

    [​IMG]

    Here I have selected the two parts that are still on the face of the drawing.

    [​IMG]

    Now I'll make them a "Group" ...

    [​IMG]

    and that allows me to separate them from the surface of the drawing:

    [​IMG]

    I can then rotate them as a unit using the "protractor" in Sketchup:

    [​IMG]

    and then move them into position:

    [​IMG]

    Here's a closeup of the former I just created next to the original in the model.

    [​IMG]

    I hope this wasn't too elementary or laborious for you. But I wanted to take this opportunity to show the technique I have developed to do this model. Every part was done basically the same way- with the Bezier tool for the non-symmetrical curves. Whatever you create, if you make it into a "group", you can move it around and it won't attach itself to anything.

    Cheers!
    Bruce
  10. KenG

    KenG New Member

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    Thank you! No, this was not too laborious. It's just what I needed.
    Ken
  11. RyanShort1

    RyanShort1 Member

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    I haven't had a lot of time to work on my Sketchup project lately, but thought I'd mention that there are at least two SU plugins for Bezier Curves - and one of them is WAY better than the other with multiple points for modification, and a place where you can tell it how many segments to "break" the curve into.

    Ryan
  12. Dragos

    Dragos Active Member

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  13. bclemens

    bclemens Member

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    Hi, Dragos,

    yes, that is a good tool for individual parts. I tried it before on more complicated shapes and ran into a slight problem. I unfolded various portions of a tapered cylinder (like a V-1 fuselage) and each portion that was unfolded ended up in a different plane. I had to spend a lot of time trying to put each part in the same flat plane by tilting and aligning them. I soon gave up and went to Pepakura.

    However now that I think about it, if I unfolded each part individually and exported only that portion, perhaps they would all be flat relative to each other when I import them into Inkscape...It's worth a try!

    Cheers!
    Bruce
  14. cdavenport

    cdavenport Member

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    Convention

    Reading your work on the Yak 15 makes me wish we paper modelers had a convention in the States so that guys like you could hold seminars on what to use and how to do it when it comes to design.

    I can teach someone how do precision measurement and the basics of lathe operation in a couple of hours, but all the steps you designers use to create a finished product makes my head dizzy!

    Are you going to incorporate a detailed cockpit and wheel well as well?
  15. Lex

    Lex Dollmaker

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    I thought papermodel conventions only exist in the states... :D
  16. JT Fox

    JT Fox Member

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    Bruce.

    Thanks for the tip on formers. I use Meta and I'm sure your method will convert over very easy.

    Cheers JTF
  17. bclemens

    bclemens Member

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    Hi, cdavenport,

    Good point on the conference- maybe we should organize one!
    I do plan to put a detailed cockpit and wheel wells- as soon as I quit getting sidelined with other projects! :eek:

    Cheers!
    Bruce
  18. RyanShort1

    RyanShort1 Member

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    Bruce,

    How are you doing the skins between formers... that to me seems to be the biggest challenge - extruding between dis-similar formers.

    Ryan
  19. bclemens

    bclemens Member

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    Hi, Ryan,
    that's about where I am with this design now. Rather than extrude the skins all at once, I'm working it a little differently...I'm using the pencil tool going back and forth between the two formers. It creates the skin as I go. This seems to be working out pretty well for me.

    [​IMG]
  20. RyanShort1

    RyanShort1 Member

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    Yeah, that's what has been holding me up a bit. I hate having to find all of the little points and draw in the faces, but I think I might have a better solution for you! I did some searching and there's a free plugin called Curve Stitcher... It's pretty nice! Basically I'm using the Bezier curve option to create the profiles, moving them into position, and then using the curve stitcher to fill it in. The only problem I have so far is that the curve stitcher then explodes the curve... Solution is to do the whole model up without the skin, copy it, and then do the curve stitcher on every other section on one copy, and every other section on the copy.

    Ryan