Scenic & Relaxed Update - First Train Run!!!

shaygetz

Active Member
Palmisano said:
Well, I'm not sure yet how to throw the switches.

Have you considered automotive choke cables? Are they even made any more? sigh:rolleyes: At one point I was looking at throttle assemblies for lawn mowers. They have a nice looking lever throw handle and a trim plate that could easily be marked for tracks and such and, at $4 apiece, reasonably inexpensive. At seasons end they can be picked up on clearance for even less.
 

Palmisano

New Member
Well, my grandfather does RC airplanes and I may try something like their control system for actuating the aelerons and rudder, etc on the plane. You can get the little cable inside of a plastic sheath thingie in various lengths. Now that I think of it I seem to remember an article in Model Railroader about a cable actuated turnout mechanism. I'll have to dig it up. I just want the actual visible part of the turnout to be scale. Nothing gives away a scene in a photo as quickly as a caboose industries ground throw.
 

loggerhead

New Member
switch actuation

With the code 55 switches, I used a small douple throw, single pole switch to actuate my switches that are close to the table front, it routes power to the frog and after drilling a hole in the top and putting a wire out, they make a reasonable switch stand. for the remote turnouts, I have used music wire inside of brass tubing (K&S makes longer tubing pieces) to actuate them, I just had to cut a channel in the foam scenery base for the tube to fit in toward my operating area. Have you wired your switches to be power routing or insulated frogs?
 

oleirish

New Member
Palmisano said:
Well, my grandfather does RC airplanes and I may try something like their control system for actuating the aelerons and rudder, etc on the plane. You can get the little cable inside of a plastic sheath thingie in various lengths. Now that I think of it I seem to remember an article in Model Railroader about a cable actuated turnout mechanism. I'll have to dig it up. I just want the actual visible part of the turnout to be scale. Nothing gives away a scene in a photo as quickly as a caboose industries ground throw.
:wave: :thumb: There is an company out here in Oregon called the "HUMPYARD" they make probley the best manual switch I've ever used,there is an add in most of the MR magazines for them.they are an real looking switch control,tuff made,(I'VE bumped mine a couple of times):rolleyes: They have an cable systeam that works under the lay out.Check them out!You have one of the finest layouts I've ever seen,these switches would work fine,looking forward to seeing more of your work:thumb: :)
JIM
 

TexDoc

New Member
Looking good. I am kind of homesick. This is the first trackplan I used for my first layout. I expanded it over about 4 years with extensions off both sides. Your trackwork is beautiful. Nice work. Due to a couple of moves it is history.
TexDoc
 

TexDoc

New Member
When I expanded the layout the first time I went from the top loop out to the right and created a branch that returned to the bottom loop at the back. I did an over and under with the branch line and had some industry to switch. Later I came off the lower line to the left and had a branch that ran along the wall with a staging area.
I wil try and draw this out when I get time and send it to you. This was my first N scale layout and I built it on the frame of a breakfast bar. I simply removed the top and built the layout using the remaining frame. It was a great conversation piece and a better way to separate the living and dining areas. Besides it was the only place I had.
You've got a great start, have fun,
Doc
 

Harpo

New Member
Track work looks great! Some really nice stuff going on there. Hey, I had an idea for manual throw switches. What about bicycle shift/brake cable? Also the RC shops have lots of neat stuff like ball & socket linkages which can be used for all sorts of unusual things. Years ago I used to convert rotary valve mechanical linkages and string linkages to ball & socket (on French horns and tubas). Worked brilliantly, and if the socket were too tight, a little bit of #800 grinding compound would loosen things up just right. Gonna have to work out some schematics on this one!

Harpo
 
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