S.S. "Californian" 1:400

lehcyfer

Member
Californian.jpg


My friend asked me to test build this model.



First thing I've laminated all parts that needed it on 1mm card. They were cut out, their edges treated with cyanoacrylic glue and sanded to high precision



As you can see, the ends - especially overhanged stern - have much more ribs than the flat middle



The skeleton was put together dry



You can see closeups of stern and bow



And finally everything was put together dry to get the idea of how it will look like:





See you next time :)
 

Rhaven Blaack

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It looks like you are off to a GREAT START!!!
I like the idea of treating the edges with CA glue and then sanding to get that perfect edge. The part that you showed looked like it was professionally cut.
I will be following this thread.
 

zathros

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You will have to be sanding some angles into those ribs especially at the stern. I'm sure you're up to the task! :)
 

lehcyfer

Member
Thanks Chris :)
Yes Zathros, I'm surely up to the task ;)

On with the thread:

The skeleton was glued with cyanoacrylic glue, the edges sandpapered again - to get easy flowing lines accomodating to the shape of the plating. Some edges on bow and stern were sharpened - according to the instruction.

Pieces of plating were cut out and retouched:



Pieces of plating are shaped to accomodate to the place they are suppose to take. Then they are glued together on touch using BCG glue - first in the the middle - matching the center marks printed on the parts, then the sides.



A strip is cut away from a piece of cigarette paper, covered with glue and applied on the connection from the inside. After drying it with a hairdryer - a tool I use to dry every single connection which speeds gluing considerably - the line of connection is smoothened down from behind, using a rounded stick - the end of my Olfa AK-3 knife. The line is now smooth and nice.



If pieces are glued at angle, the smoothened connections also take more flowing shape.



Edges which are to be glued together into a sharp edge are sanded sharp using Dremel rotary tool. Such edge is for example on the bow part of the plating



Parts for the stern are cut in half - to facilitate similar sharp edge. This time smoothenigg is done from the colored side because this part of plating is concave. Sides are glued together, forming another short segment of plating.



The bottom plating is assembled into short segments

P6290021_zps8e6bd269.jpg


Short segments are glued together into two main parts - front and back. To the rib where they connect there are glued - from both sides - short strips of thick, soft card from a beer pad which are then sanded flush with the rib



The underside of the bottom plating is then profusely covered with the spray glue from underside and glued on the bottom right away, first back, then front - this way the glue sets slower, allowing for fitting.

P6290024_zps06c3e72c.jpg


Closeups



See ya folks ;)
 

Rhaven Blaack

!!!THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN!!!
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This is really starting to take shape.
You are doing a FANTASTIC JOB!!!
The tips and techniques are most helpful!!!
 

inky

Member
Looking good. Thank you for the tips, I have just started the USS Arizona from Digital Navy, these tips will come in handy.
 

lehcyfer

Member
Thanks Chris - you know I love to share the techniques ;)

Good luck, Inky, I wish you success :)

The build moves on.

The parts for side plating are cut out and retouched.



The same technique as in the bottom is used to assemble the stern hangout. The connection with the side belt is strengthened from behind. The two parts of side belt are connected.



The side plating is ready to be glued on

P7010008_zpsd6f30a30.jpg


The stern hangout is glued on. At the bow there is a bit to cut off. The ready bow looks sharp :)





The body is ready.



P7010020_zps757f6ee0.jpg
 

zathros

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I believe that has to be the finest seamed and glued under belly of any model I have ever seen! It is flawless! :)
 

lehcyfer

Member
Thank you Zathros, Micah. It was flawless until it slipped out of my hands and have fallen to the floor. I repaired slight damage to the bow and caved in place in bottom side, but it's not flawless anymore :(

Now it's time to start filling white spaces on board ;)

Skeleton of the middle island is glued on the board with drops of cyanoacrylic glue, together with additional strips of card added for easier and more precise gluing of the sides of island. Dry test with a side element shows that it works as intended.



There are many ways to glue box-like elements. One of them is to cut the box apart and glue the pieces separately. It is shown here with the sides of the middle island. They are cut into separate facets, the edges are sharpened so that when glued together they will form a sharp edge. The niches are not cut into pieces - instead their lines are cut slightly from the back - the bend will be sharp but there's no need to glue separate pieces :) The cut and sharpened pieces are glued together on touch, forming one piece



Which is then glued around the laminated top of the island - when the ends meet, there's a tiny excess to cut away. The island is checked for fit and glued onto the skeleton.



Another way of gluing boxes is based on making the lines of bending thinner from behind which allows for sharp edges without cutting the walls of box apart - much faster method but requiring practice and feel for the material - a bit too deep cut and the part can be damaged.

Before cutting a part out there are markings made by doing small cuts with the knife from the front - showing where is the line of bending after the card is turned over. On both sides of the line of bending, from the back, there are cut (not through) two lines. The distance between them depends on the thickness of the card (a matter of testing). Then paper is scratched out from between the lines using the tip of the knife. Then the part is cut out - in this case the sides of the base of the stern bridge. Its skeleton is fit to the part and finally the element is assembled. A tip - the bent wall is the one without portholes - it's 1mm wider than the opposite straight wall.



In most cases in this model I will be using the second method. That's how was made this funnel deck

P7020018_zps5e9f5a66.jpg



Side skylights and top skylight of the funnel deck are thinned from behind, cut out, glued together



and attached to the funnel deck - together with a hatchway. The resulting structure is fitted dry on the middle deck.

P7020024_zps7000e3c4.jpg


The base of the stern bridge is similarly placed on the stern deck. And last photo shows both structures and the middle deck on one picture.

 

lehcyfer

Member
Continuing covering bigger white spots

Covers for the cargo holds. The edges of the white places on the deck were blackened to avoid white lines showing.



White boxes placed on the stern bridge are glued without the bottom as it is unnecessary and allows for cleaner fitting to the deck.



The main bridge is glued up, and there are railings and skylights added.



The main and stern bridges together

P7030017_zps03704d83.jpg


How it all looks together - with additional skylights on the middle deck.

P7030018_zps0e7a60ce.jpg


P7030020_zps425a8d16.jpg


 

Rhaven Blaack

!!!THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN!!!
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You are doing an AMAZING JOB!!!
Everything looks so very clean, crisp, and smooth!!!
KEEP UP THR GREAT WORK!!!
 

zathros

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The deck work is very nice and clean. The ship is really coming to life! :)
 
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