s.e 5a

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by dfarrell, Feb 21, 2007.

  1. dfarrell

    dfarrell Member

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    Well, I'm trying to figure out the best way to rig a bi-plane, so I thought I would build a "quickie" and have a go at it. I picked out the s.e.5a from f.g. W.W. I. cd and built the large version. It comes out to with about a 10" wing span, so it is big enough to play around with. I have rigged one or two planes before, but was not happy with the result. I wrapped thread around the struts as close as I could to the wing, but when I was done, the thread lifted from it's original postion, and the rigging looks like it comes from the middle of the strut. So this time I thought I would try putting in little loops of thread at the rigging points to attach my thread latter . Here is a picture.

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  2. dfarrell

    dfarrell Member

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    Now that it is built, let's string 'er up. First I installed the "wires" to the inner struts. These I did the old way of wraping and gluing and praying they don't move. 3 out of four came out looking good, but It took a while to get them right. Then comes the wires that runs from the middle of the top wing to the fuselage. I didn't install loops in this part of the wing because I found making them to be a pain in the a___ and I was hoping to find a better way. And I think a did. Instead of a bunch of individaul wires like on the real airplane I realized that if I tied a piece thead to the axle, next to the landing gear strut, then to the top of the other strut then up to the middle of the top wing and poke a hole through it , then back down to the fuselage and through it up to the other wing, through it and back to the other side of the landing gear, I would get lots done with only having to tie 2 knots. This I did with the help of a needle and it work great! This is good because the idea of using the loops isn't so easy. Trying to tie a knot and then cutting the excess string off so the knot isn't seen is a bit of a challenge. Then tying the next knot and keeping things tight turn outr to be more than I can manage. (I am not good at small knot tying). Maybe a picture would make things clearer.

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  3. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    What will you do with these loops?

    I hope to learn something here as I want to build a Wright Flyer and it's got a ton of rigging that worries me!

    Thanks!
    Rick
  4. SCEtoAux

    SCEtoAux Member

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    Here is a video showing how to use a fly tying tool called a whip finisher. It looks like it might be useful in some situations. Maybe bending some wire to make a smaller version would help in finishing some ties on the smaller models.
    Look for Matarelli Whip Finish Video on the right hand side of the page, wmv format.:)
  5. dfarrell

    dfarrell Member

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    I think I will make another attempt at tying rigging to the loops tonight, but I am probably just going to cut them off and try threaded my rigging through the wings with a needle.
  6. dfarrell

    dfarrell Member

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    After playing around with it tonight, I came to the conclusion that trying to use those loops to tie the rigging onto is a complete waste of time. I think the best way to do it is to tie on to the struts or run thread through the wing. And, I think most important of all, plan how you want to run the rigging carefully, and try to use the fewest pieces of thread possible. I was able to rig the landing gear and the wings using just 3 pieces of thread. Check out the picture

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  7. dfarrell

    dfarrell Member

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    Here is a shot from the front, showing the landing gear

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  8. dfarrell

    dfarrell Member

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    The thing that a don't like about wrapping the rigging around the strut is that it tends to ride up the strut and away from the wings ,making the rigging look funny. I discoverd that making a very small notch in the strut gives the thread something to grab on to. Now all of the sudden the rigging stays in place while you are working on it, and you can very easily adjust things like the dihederal. This is big stuff:grin: I was so excited by this that I grabbed that Nieuport 23 with the sagging wings, and had it fixed in no time at all!

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  9. Clashster

    Clashster Member

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    Looks great! Nice job with the rigging. Not having built a biwing, how did you anchor the rigging to the middle of the wing? Great build and great pics!
    Thanks!
    Chris
  10. Gil

    Gil Active Member

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  11. dfarrell

    dfarrell Member

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    Clashster,
    To attach the rigging to the middle of the wing, I poked holes through the bottom panel of the wing and threaded it through with a needle.
    Some more thoughts on rigging:
    1) rig first add prop later.
    2) Ditto for wing mounted Lewis gun
    3) Don't try to tuck your rigging into a notch with the sharp edge of your exacto knife.:shock:
    4) Some people say the you should make sure your rigging materal is to scale. I say the heck with that! It should be BIG! Be proud of your work. Make sure you can see it from say. . . 20 feet away!:grin:
    5) CA glue sound easier than tying knots.
    You should really try it, it adds sooo much more to your model!
  12. dfarrell

    dfarrell Member

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    The Fiddler's Green s.e. 5a builds up into a pretty nice model. If you were to add some details like valve covers, exhaust pipes, and a little cockpit detail, it would really look good!

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  13. EricGoedkoop

    EricGoedkoop Member

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    Thanks for the plug, Gil - but those of course are monoplanes and much easier to handle.

    To tell the truth, rigging still gives me fits but I've found a trick or two. If you're using monofilament, try attaching the lines to the ends of the struts BEFORE gluing the struts to the wings. Use white glue for this; hold the monofilament across the strut end and place a drop of white glue on top. The glue won't bond to the line, but it will "capture" it. This takes a little planning and a lot of patience. Be sure to leave plenty of slack between the struts, and don't get the lines tangled. Here's the cool part: once you've securely glued the struts (with slack rigging already attached) to the wings and everything is good and dry, a gentle but firm tug on the loose end of the monofilament rigging will pop it loose enough to pull taut. A drop of CA will permanently fasten it once all is tight and square. The obvious advantage here is that your rigging lines will terminate neatly at the strut base. There's no tying-off or wrapping-around. It's sorta like being able to drill teeny tiny holes at the very end of the struts to pass your lines through.









    In the interests of full disclosure, however, I'm obliged to tell you that I've actually given up on monofilament entirely. It's 100-weight filament silk for me now.
  14. dfarrell

    dfarrell Member

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    Thanks for the tip! I was hoping to draw out advice from some more experienced builders.:-D
  15. Gil

    Gil Active Member

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    Nice Input

    Eric, That stuffs nearly invisible! You're using 110/2 or /3?

    -Gil