Rolling stock update (with LOTS of BIG pictures)...

Discussion in 'HO Scale Model Trains' started by doctorwayne, Dec 14, 2008.

  1. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2005
    Messages:
    3,844
    Likes Received:
    0
    As I've mentioned elsewhere here, I'm attempting to more firmly root my layout in the 1930s, and have sold quite a bit of stuff that's "too modern" for my layout. While there will be more to sell, I'm also re-painting and re-lettering a lot of other cars, mostly to get a more suitable lettering style for the period. In addition, there are many new cars, yet to be detailed, painted, and lettered, that will be added to the roster as time permits. I had originally intended to upgrade all cars, new and old, with at least a basic representation of the brake gear, but some of the re-paints shown below haven't yet received that upgrade, although all new ones where the brake gear is visible will be so done.
    Below are some new cars, along with some ones that were already in service. The latter are shown first in their original paint and lettering, then again in their current garb. Manufacturers are as noted.

    Here are some recent acquisitions, the first a Bowser PRR X-31A boxcar, with C-D-S lettering:
    [​IMG]

    More Pennsy from Bowser:
    [​IMG]

    Another Bowser car - I added the black ends and roof to an already-painted and lettered car:
    [​IMG]

    This Bowser car was an undecorated kit, which I painted and then lettered with C-D-S dry transfers:
    [​IMG]

    A Roundhouse/MDC auto boxcar, with slightly modified factory lettering:
    [​IMG]

    A Branchline car, which I bought mainly for the 1936 BLT. date, although I've always liked that dollar sign herald:
    [​IMG]

    This one is an Accurail car, again with factory lettering. I added the lines above and below the dimensional data, and some re-weigh/re-pack data:
    [​IMG]

    Accurail again, with some weathering and the usual added details:
    [​IMG]

    Another Accurail - the 1933 re-weigh date, plus a $6.00 price tag made this one easy to add:
    [​IMG]

    This Accurail reefer was a gift from a fellow Gauge Member. I "revised" both the "BLT" and re-weigh dates, then used a brush to paint the car's hardware (ladders, grabs, etc.) in a manner more appropriate for the earlier timeframe:
    [​IMG]

    This Athearn gondola was stripped of its original paint and lettering, then re-done with Floquil paint and C-D-S dry transfers. At $5.00 new, I couldn't resist:
    [​IMG]

    This CNR gondola, in its more-correct-for-the-era black, was an unbuilt Westerfield kit which I picked up for about $12.00. It was minus the kit instructions, but an easy build nonetheless:
    [​IMG]

    This Athearn hopper was a $4.00 "used" bargain, complete with Kadees. I stripped off the lettering and re-did it with C-D-S dry transfers:
    [​IMG]

    Another hopper, this one from Train Miniature. It was supposed to be another L&NE car, but the disparity in size with the smaller Athearn car didn't look right, so I lettered it for my own EG&E:
    [​IMG]

    This updated Varney car has been posted elsewhere here, but I include it here as part of my re-build programme:
    [​IMG]

    This tank car is from Proto2000, built mostly "stock", although I did replace the sill steps, all grabirons, and the tank handrail with metal parts. The handrail stanchions are from an Athearn Mikado:
    [​IMG]

    These last few cars are re-paints of models which I already had painted previously, although with more modern paint schemes. The first view is of the original paint and lettering, the second is the "revised" version -

    Tichy rebuilt USRA single sheathed boxcar:
    [​IMG]

    (looks like the wrong camera setting for this version) :oops:;)
    [​IMG]

    Another Tichy car - before:
    [​IMG]

    And after:
    [​IMG]

    A Train Miniature car in the short-lived 1947 scheme:
    [​IMG]

    And the same car in the more staid 1926 to mid'50s scheme:
    [​IMG]

    I'm not sure who made this car, as there were no markings on the 3 that I bought used, as bodies only. Lettering, as on all of these repaints, is C-D-S, both "before" and "after":
    [​IMG]

    Here's the same car, minus the '50s-era Lady liberty. You'll note that the car number has been changed, as the more modern car was erroneously lettered for a different class of car:
    [​IMG]

    And last, at least in this batch, an extensively re-worked Athearn car, with the '40s-era white leaf:
    [​IMG]

    And with the plainer pre-40s lettering. This is probably weathered a little too heavily for its 1934 BLT date, so I'll have to be careful to lighten up on the next 10 or 15 cars, which will be ones built in 1936-1938.
    [​IMG]

    I know that these cars are less interesting than in their more modern lettering schemes, but I hope that they'll look more in keeping with my "late '30s" era.

    Wayne
  2. WReid

    WReid Member

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2008
    Messages:
    69
    Likes Received:
    0
    Great looking freight cars.:thumb: Most of all the Canadian National ones. Seeing as I am modeling the CNR in the late 1950's any CNR cars catch my attention. I have 45 undecorated Intermountain 40' modified boxcar kits waiting to be built, painted and decaled. I also have a number of Tichy boxcars that will be painted in the older scheme no leaf scheme as you have done.


    Wayne R
  3. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2005
    Messages:
    3,844
    Likes Received:
    0
    Thanks, Wayne. I'm planning on using a bunch of Accurail steel boxcars, both single- and double-door, as stand-ins for late '30s CNR and CPR cars, even though the ends and roof (and who knows what else) :p:-D are incorrect. They're "close enough" for my needs.

    Charlie, most of the "chalk" marks were done with a Rapidograph drawing pen, although the more recent ones were done with a white pencil. I prefer the white ink ones, although it's difficult to get (and keep) the ink flowing. The next major batch will probably be done with ink, which will make the effort of cleaning the pen worthwhile. ;):-D

    Wayne
  4. Dan85

    Dan85 Member

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2008
    Messages:
    56
    Likes Received:
    0
    Fantastic Work Wayne! Seeing this type of work really motivates my to improve the quality of my builds!

    - Dan
  5. WReid

    WReid Member

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2008
    Messages:
    69
    Likes Received:
    0
    Wayne I have some Accurail ones I have also been thinking of doing as well even though as you say they are not 100% correct. I got all the Intermountain cars for a really good price and seeing as some of the CNR 40', 10'6" tall cars had 4/4 ends the Intermountain cars will be close. I cannot remember if they have the correct roof but I do remember I will have to change the stirrup steps. At least they have the proper 8 rung ladders.

    Lately I have been buying some of the new True Line Trains CNR 40' boxcars. Nice cars. Most of all the ones with the NSC ends but at $35.99 Cdn each plus taxes they are expensive. I can build, paint and decal three Intermountain cars for the same price. :eek:


    Wayne R
  6. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2005
    Messages:
    3,844
    Likes Received:
    0
    You're right: you did get a good price on those Intermountain cars! ;):-D

    Wayne
  7. TruckLover

    TruckLover Mack CH613 & 53' Trailer

    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2006
    Messages:
    4,352
    Likes Received:
    0
    Dang Wayne, thats a lot of work you have done there, and some mighty fine modeling work as well, but hey, did we expect anything else from the doc in the ways of GREAT modeling? :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
  8. cnw1961

    cnw1961 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2006
    Messages:
    936
    Likes Received:
    0
    Wayne, that’s a fantastic collection of cars. Can’t wait to see the rest of the cars you still want to re-paint and re-letter. What did you say, how many more do you have waiting on you workbench? BTW, did you use an airbrush to apply this subtle weathering to some of the cars?
  9. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2005
    Messages:
    3,844
    Likes Received:
    0
    Thanks, Kurt. :-D All of the cars were painted using an airbrush and Floquil paints. For weathering, I use Floquil paints, thinned very severely (up to 90% thinner) applied with an airbrush, or PollyScale paints, also heavily thinned with distilled water, applied as a wash, using a 1/2" brush. I also use suitably-sized brushes to paint specific details, such as the joints in car sidesheets, or individual boards on a "wooden" car, usually with Floquil paints mixed to whatever colour is required. I have weathered using chalks before, and may do some cars with that method, but right now, my goal is to re-equip the railroad with suitable cars, rebuild a half-dozen-or-so locos, and then get back to working on the layout.

    Wayne
  10. Ralph

    Ralph Remember...it's for fun!

    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2002
    Messages:
    5,342
    Likes Received:
    0
    VERY nice collection Wayne! I think that Bowser Pennsy hopper is my favorite. The weathering is subtle but so effective.

    Ralph
  11. gna

    gna New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2003
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Dr. Wayne--

    The Accurail C&O hopper--it looks like it says "CHFSEPEAKE." Is that weathering, or are my eyes playing tricks on me?
  12. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2005
    Messages:
    3,844
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hmm. You're right: in the photo it certainly looks more like an "F" than an "E".
    And I just checked it in person, and it is an "F"! :eek: Well, actually, there's a chip in the paint where the "foot" of the "E" should be. I'll get a brush and touch-up that spot. Thanks for pointing it out. :thumb: No wonder the car was so cheap. ;):-D

    Wayne
  13. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2005
    Messages:
    3,844
    Likes Received:
    0
    Here are a few more re-builds and re-paints. All paint is Floquil and all lettering C-D-S dry transfers, except for the re-weigh and re-pack data, which is from Champ.

    This is a Train Miniature plugdoor boxcar, modified to represent a door-and-a-half car that was common in the '20s and '30s, seen first in its mid-'40s lettering:
    [​IMG]

    And the backdated version:
    [​IMG]

    The next bunch of cars escaped having their "before" portrait done :rolleyes: :
    A former NYC gondola (in boxcar red), this one is a cheapie from Lima. I had added the short ladder at the right end when I first painted it for NYC, then changed a short drop-grab on the left end for a longer straight one when re-doing this as a CN car:
    [​IMG]

    Another Lima, formerly CNR in boxcar red, this one got the short right-end ladder replaced with long grabirons, and the short drop grab on the left end replaced with a long straight one:
    [​IMG]

    This was on the "Used" table at the LHS, for $5.00, an Ertl Seaboard Air Line car, complete with factory weathering. I replaced all of the free-standing plastic grabs with metal ones, and ditto for the sill steps. As the car was a bit light, I also substituted a new sheet lead weight for the original steel one. The road name is from a set for an N scale hopper, and is a bit more accurate than that shown on the other two gondolas :
    [​IMG]

    Another refugee from the "Used" table, this Intermountain tank car was partially built (and not very well).:p I don't recall the roadname, but all paint and lettering was removed. I then replaced all of the sill steps with ones from A-Line, and bent new grab irons from .012" stainless steel wire. The plastic handrail was also replaced with a wire one, and the next time I break one of those ladders (again :curse: ) they'll be replaced with metal ones, too. All of the brake rigging was added with more wire, as it's very visible on these types of cars. All lettering is Champ decals:
    [​IMG]

    Another bargain car, this Red Caboose tanker was reasonably well built, but damaged. It got the same upgrades as the previous car, plus new brass ladders. Again, lettering from Champ:
    [​IMG]

    These two cars were both new, unbuilt Proto2000 kits, but were, fortunately, on sale. I don't recall the original road names. Both got the same upgrades as the first tank car, although I did use the plastic brake rigging and have yet to replace those fragile ladders. The lettering is C-D-S dry transfers, applied to some clear decal film, then applied to the car as a regular decal. Re-weigh/re-pack data is from Champ:[​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I hope that you've enjoyed this latest installment, and will tune in next time for more.

    Wayne
  14. Fluesheet

    Fluesheet Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2006
    Messages:
    367
    Likes Received:
    0
    Doctorwayne,

    Thanks for posting these - one inspiration I've gotten from reading these types of posts is to keep more detail "stuff" on hand. A model being built is much more likely to be built right if the stuff is here as opposed to on a shelf at the LHS! (at least in my world)

    Question about the three hoppers in the first post. I've always associated non-ribbed hoppers and the hoppers with the bulging panels (sorry, can't think of the correct word - the C&O car) as being post-war. How early were these types built? I don't have a good freight car reference here at home.

    Thanks, and good stuff,

    Matt
  15. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2005
    Messages:
    3,844
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hmm. I can't find the reference, but I believe this started in the early '30s. The article shows photos of a hopper being re-built in this manner. The company that made the panels (Pressed Steel Car?) advertised them as a way to rebuild USRA hoppers by replacing sidesheets that were rusting-out due to the corrosive nature of coal, and, at the same time, increase cubic capacity.
    I neglected to include a new photo of that CHFSAPEAKE & OHIO car, but I did change the "F" into an "E" by adding the missing piece from an un-used "E" on a dry transfer sheet. ;):-D

    Wayne
  16. Fluesheet

    Fluesheet Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2006
    Messages:
    367
    Likes Received:
    0
    That's helpful. I'm also targeting, coincidentally, the same time frame (1936ish) - so this is good to know.

    Thanks!
  17. Triplex

    Triplex Active Member

    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2005
    Messages:
    1,849
    Likes Received:
    0
    They're called "offset-side hoppers."
  18. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2005
    Messages:
    3,844
    Likes Received:
    0
    Actually, these are offset-side hoppers:
    [​IMG]

    And these are the ones to which I'm referring, generally known as panel-side hoppers:
    [​IMG]

    They were a re-build of the USRA ribbed-side hoppers, similar to (but not exactly the same as) these:
    [​IMG]

    Wayne
  19. Fluesheet

    Fluesheet Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2006
    Messages:
    367
    Likes Received:
    0
    I found a reference. A 70 ton ARA offset-side design was created in 1926 (MUCH earlier than I had thought) with a 50 ton design following in 1930. 127,000 of a 1934 redesign of the 50T were built through the 1950's.

    I couldn't find a date for the panel side, but the context indicated 1920's - 1930's (rebuilds of USRA designs as doctorwayne noted).

    Matt