Is all nicke-silver track the same? I mean, does the manufactuer matter? Example: Model Power vs. Atlas? Thanks for the help!!!!!
Question about types of track
- Thread starter Martin23
- Start date
Hi Martin and welcome to the gauge. So long as it's NS, doesn't matter which track it is, but track codes differ. for H0 either code 75 finescale/code 100 (Peco track & points) I have always used Peco and found even after many years of work that it is still perfect.
Martin:
Are you asking about sectional track? There probably isn't much difference in the brand quality in the same category (ie with roadbed vs without roadbed).
I remember that there are some differences in the flexible tracks. The rails are pretty uniform but the tie strips vary a bit in how flexible they are, how well the rail slips through the fastenings, and whether it stays curved or kinked or tends to straighten out.
Best of luck.
Are you asking about sectional track? There probably isn't much difference in the brand quality in the same category (ie with roadbed vs without roadbed).
I remember that there are some differences in the flexible tracks. The rails are pretty uniform but the tie strips vary a bit in how flexible they are, how well the rail slips through the fastenings, and whether it stays curved or kinked or tends to straighten out.
Best of luck.
Be wary of some "cheap" brands of what may appear to be nickel- silver flex track. They really aren't nickel-silver. Made mostly out of steel. They are usually sold in packages of 5 or 6 pieces. I won't call any names...you'll be able to tell by the price. Take Care...Vic
I usually use Atlas track. It's reasonably priced, it looks pretty good and holds up over the years. There are a few more pricey brands that might be a little more closer to perfect but I've had some of my track for 30 years and just keep useing it over and over. Some day it might wear out but I think it will outlast me!
track types
FWIW, in my part of the world, Peco rules. I use it, and have had not hassles what so ever. (code 75) the rails break away from the ties if you mangle it too much when trying to do that "last join" to complete a section of track, but if you're careful and do it slowly and gently, then it's fine. Nickel/silver is only a recent (10 - 15 years??) inovation, as "all steel" track rusts very easily and quickly. I'm not sure about subtle railshape differences between brands, however I've stuck to the single brand as I know all the bits (joiners, turnouts, turnout switches etc) are designed to fit all aspect of the Peco track. Shinohara track is too "gold/brassy" looking for me and expensive too. I haven't had any probs with the Peco flextrack. Nickel/Silver is also meant to be less "conductive" than steel with brass being the best, but I've never had any probs with lack of power. If running "blocks" then long lengths of track with a multiple power connection is not needed.
FWIW, in my part of the world, Peco rules. I use it, and have had not hassles what so ever. (code 75) the rails break away from the ties if you mangle it too much when trying to do that "last join" to complete a section of track, but if you're careful and do it slowly and gently, then it's fine. Nickel/silver is only a recent (10 - 15 years??) inovation, as "all steel" track rusts very easily and quickly. I'm not sure about subtle railshape differences between brands, however I've stuck to the single brand as I know all the bits (joiners, turnouts, turnout switches etc) are designed to fit all aspect of the Peco track. Shinohara track is too "gold/brassy" looking for me and expensive too. I haven't had any probs with the Peco flextrack. Nickel/Silver is also meant to be less "conductive" than steel with brass being the best, but I've never had any probs with lack of power. If running "blocks" then long lengths of track with a multiple power connection is not needed.
Yes indeed, Woody is absolutly right. Of the three, Brass, Steel and Nickel-Silver, the N/S is the least electrically conductive. But the measured resistance is not worth worrying about.
Besides its realistic color the greatest advantage of N/S rails is that the oxide that forms on them is electrically conductive and less track cleaning is required.
I use a mixture of Shinahora and Model Engineering Code 70 on my main lines and Model Engineering code 55 on the sidings. Very little cleaning is required. Maybe once a year...Lucky Me!
Take Care and Have Fun ....Vic
Besides its realistic color the greatest advantage of N/S rails is that the oxide that forms on them is electrically conductive and less track cleaning is required.
I use a mixture of Shinahora and Model Engineering Code 70 on my main lines and Model Engineering code 55 on the sidings. Very little cleaning is required. Maybe once a year...Lucky Me!
Take Care
and Have Fun ....VicWoodie,
No,,,, you're not that old,,, we're all "that old"!!!
My first layout, a 4' X 6', on a cut down sheet of plywood, had steel "flex track", steel rails on fiber ties, 3'long, and impossible to keep clean.
Nickle silver may not be the BEST thing that ever happened to model railroading, but it rates right up there.
Pete.
No,,,, you're not that old,,, we're all "that old"!!!
My first layout, a 4' X 6', on a cut down sheet of plywood, had steel "flex track", steel rails on fiber ties, 3'long, and impossible to keep clean.
Nickle silver may not be the BEST thing that ever happened to model railroading, but it rates right up there.
Pete.