Q - Acrylic Craft Paint

Donn Welton

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If this is water based, use a technique that woodworkers often employ: paint both sides to prevent any warping due to uneven moisture absorbson. Sealling one side will help with the uniformity of the top coat but not control for warping.
Cheers,
Donn
 

MasonJar

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Thanks guys...

I guess I am being "forced" down the superdetailing road one (small) step at a time!:rolleyes: I had not considered painting the inside of a building before ;)

Andrew
 

N Gauger

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Originally posted by MasonJar
Thanks guys...

I guess I am being "forced" down the superdetailing road one (small) step at a time!:rolleyes: I had not considered painting the inside of a building before ;)

Andrew
Ahhhh there's an "up" side to interior painting, it helps mask the light when you use one inside the buildig. Lower reflectivity makes more realistic lighting :D :D :D
 

RailRon

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Good point, Mikey! Never thought about that. :cool:

So you would recommend a primer as dark as possible? Problem is: Are there dark primers - or are you toning them down by adding a little black paint? Or is the usual medium 'primer-grey' already dark enough?

Ron
 

N Gauger

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Originally posted by RailRon
Good point, Mikey! Never thought about that. :cool:

So you would recommend a primer as dark as possible? Problem is: Are there dark primers - or are you toning them down by adding a little black paint? Or is the usual medium 'primer-grey' already dark enough?

Ron
Flat gray is fine, or you could use flat black paint over it - your choice, but the "Flat" texture is the critical thing - minimal reflectivity. So the lights look more real. Have Fun!!!!!
 

mhdishere

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As someone who's been-there-done-that, I'd say you'd BETTER so something to keep the wood from warping. I painted only the outside of a nice little freight depot and had a heck of a time getting the walls straight again. I have 1/4" square basswood glued to the inside of all four walls. It looks OK now, but I wish I'd had the forethought to prevent the warping in the first place. That's the only wooden kit I've built so far, so I can't comment on the best method (i.e. sealing it, or painting inside too, or whatever).

Good luck!
 

N Gauger

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Re: Can open... worms everywhere!

Originally posted by MasonJar
Oh no! Not only do I now have to paint the interior of the building... I have to light it too ?!?!?!

;)

Andrew

OOOOPs Sorry - we forgot to warn you - When you ask questions in an intelligent manner, you usually get way more ideas than you bargained for. --- Told you this was a Great Board!! :D :D :D
 

TrainClown

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You can get flat black primer as well as gray and oxide red. I use black primer on some of my props, it is cheeper than flat black spray paint. What I like to do, is go to Parts Depo or some discount auto parts place and look there for cheep primer. They usualy have a bargan on it. I get it for 2 bucks a can. I like to get it in spray cans, but I dont spray it directly from the can. I spray a small amount into the can cap or a tin can and then put it in my air brush. This works good as I don't have to thin the paint. It comes out of the spray can ready to go.

Also, If you do have trouble with warping, (I have this problem with cardboard construction sometimes) I fix the thing with my Steam Valet. A Steam Valet is a pressless iron, comonly used while travaling, and it shoots a stream of fine steam when you press a button. Works great! A few shots of steam and then gently massage the part back into shape.

Hope this helps. ;)
 

jon-monon

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Re: Can open... worms everywhere!

Originally posted by MasonJar
Oh no! Not only do I now have to paint the interior of the building... I have to light it too ?!?!?!

;)

Andrew

Don't forget, Andrew, you have period specific choices to make in the lighting too, gas, incondescent, flourescent, hallogen, etc. :D :D :D Then come the scaled down utility bills... :D :D :D