PZL P-8/I (CardPlane 1/2005)

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by Swinger, Aug 24, 2005.

  1. Swinger

    Swinger Member

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    Although the varnish I used is water-based (acrylic), it doesn't deform card, at least when applied by spraying. What's more, nothing happens to inkjet outprints - I used it also with RWD-25 taken from www.modele-kartonowe.com . So, you can coat your home-printed models with acrylic varnishes and still sleep soundly, there's just nothing to be worried about.

    OK, let's get to the tail.

    I've added this former to the vertical stabilizer (I thought it would be better than without any):

    [​IMG]

    In the horizontal one could I use the original former:

    [​IMG]
  2. Swinger

    Swinger Member

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    I showed my way of making rudder and elevators in the Spitfire build, so here I'll just show the final effect:

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  3. Swinger

    Swinger Member

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    I've added the other seatbelt, too:

    [​IMG]

    In fact the buckle should be triangle-shaped, but I didn't know that when I was making the first one. As both seatbelts should be the same, I made the same buckle in the second seatbeld as in the first one.

    The windscreen. I've removed the original frame, because I had noticed on some photos, that there was no frame in the rounded part of the glass. I made the frame basing on some photos and a drawing... I've taken the material from the "parts" which I had previously cut out from the cockpit's sides' advanced version (because spare colour is not included).

    [​IMG]

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  4. Swinger

    Swinger Member

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    The cooler:

    [​IMG]

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    Damn, I've lost somewhere the photos showing how I made the grill. Anyway, it was like that:
    1. I prepared a blackened grill-shaped former .
    2. I coated it with varnish and put a net on it (taken from some ribbon from a haberdasher's). The net was "caught" by the drying varnish.
    3. I prepared a piece or card with a hole a little bigger than the grill.
    4. I put the originally printed grill in the hole, using a sellotape (self-glueing tape... hope you know what I mean).
    5. I glued the wires on the opposite side of the piece of card in the places where they where printed on the original part below.
    6. I removed the original grill, instead of which I put the blackened former with the net glued on it. I glued this former to the wires and cut the ready grill out.
  5. Swinger

    Swinger Member

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    I don't know why I couldn't fit the back part of the cooler's cowling to the fuselage. Possibly it is because I didn't use the linking strips this time... Anyway, it looked like that:

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    I prepared this little something, then:

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    And I've mounted it like that:

    [​IMG]
  6. Mindaugas

    Mindaugas Member

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    Oh God! :shock:

    This... this is a nice model! :smile:

    I hope you'll put some photos about the landing gear and other details, you didn't show to us!

    B.t.w. - thanks for the tutorial on seat belts.

    Thanks for such a nice topic. Good luck! ;-)
    --
    P.S. Do you sand (make thinner) edges of skin parts, which, lets say, cover the top of the frontal fuselage.

    I mean in this one:
    [​IMG]
  7. Gil

    Gil Active Member

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    Swinger,

    The finish is quite remarkable. I've never given that many coats but from what you've shown it opens another avenue of finish for card models (automotive types should be extremely happy with it). Your abiity to form compound curves is well honed now and it really shows. Congratulations your mastery of this art. I'm still in awe at the grill work. I'm still trying to figure out how you did it even with your explanation. And please show the landing gear detail if it is at all possible.

    Best regards, Gil
  8. Swinger

    Swinger Member

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    Thank you. :)

    Yes, Mindaugas, I've sanded these edges you've mentioned, and also some other ones where it was necessary.

    The landing gear - I'm going to show it tomorrow (and the propeller, too). Late Autumn sucks, as for the matter of taking good photographs. Short day and a lot of clouds... Well, I just don't like taking photos at incandescent light.

    See you tomorrow, then. ;)

    P.S. What does "automotive" mean? :)
    P.P.S. The whole model was coated just once - in contrary to the standard matt card, the glossy one doesn't soak varnish in.
  9. Swinger

    Swinger Member

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    Oh, and as for the grill - feel free to ask, I'm aware that this description isn't very clear... The goal to achieve was to put the wires exactly in the place where they were supposed to be (so, in the same places as in the original outprint).

    OK, and now the promised photos.

    I've decided not to put any formers inside the propeller blades. I just formed them into the desired shape using the eraser method (shown in Spitfire build).

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    The black anti-glare surfaces (above) have been painted with an acrylic paint. Originally the blades were all gray, which wasn't proper and had to be corrected.
  10. Swinger

    Swinger Member

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    The wheel fairings (?) have been formed with the help of very smart "assistant parts". :) I hope the pics explain it well:

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  11. Swinger

    Swinger Member

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    It was enough to make just one wheel, as I wanted them to be fixed-mounted. The wheel was covered with a mixture of shellac and alcohol and sanded on a drilling machine.

    [​IMG]

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    The parts glued to the half-wheels are taken from those "assistants", so that they fitted perfectly in the fairings and could have been easily glued into them in the right place.

    [​IMG]
  12. Swinger

    Swinger Member

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    And the finished landing gear:

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  13. Swinger

    Swinger Member

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  14. Ashrunner

    Ashrunner Member

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    Okay...I am tired of picking my jaw up off the floor. 8v) Again, Swinger...another very well done model. How did the model do in the competition? Or has that no finished yet? In any case, a great looking build of an interesting aircraft.

    Now to figure out how to put my eyes back in their sockets 8v)
  15. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

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    OK look for my eyeballs too Ash!

    Swinger it's is amazing..........what scale again? 1/33? If I remember correctly.

    Automotive mean cars..........Gil was talking about your finish as it would look on card model cars......Formula 1 and others. I believe.

    My question:
    How do you edge glue the props and keep them aligned and in the correct shape.........Super Glue?

    john
  16. Swinger

    Swinger Member

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    It got 6th place in S1 class (one engined propeller aircrafts). The judges didn't like mainly this:

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    Od course it will be corrected and varnished to make it less visible - but I didn't manage to do it before the competition. And whole this mess comes from my inattention - when the varnish wasn't totally dried, another sheet of the model has sticked to this place...
    The judges didn't like too narrow tyres, too - well, the are too narrow in fact, though the difference is ca. 0,5 mm. Wider ones would have contact with the fairings, so I made them a little too narrow. Oh well, it wasn't a very heavy plane, so it didn't need wide tyres. Another thing is that the model wasn't totally finished - some details eg. exhaust pipes were temporary and simply ugly (which you can't see on the overall look).

    Nevertheless, my RWD-25 had taken the silver medal in the same class. :) I think that 100%-prepared P-8 will do better in the next competition in April (same as it happened to RWD-25).


    Yes - 1/33.

    Yeah, I think this type of finish would be great for cars. However, it would be more difficult to achieve this effect on standard matt card.

    The propeller blades were glued with very common in Poland Butapren glue. As far as I know, it's something like UHU-Alleskleber. Anyway, it is a non-water-based glue, and this is the key (water-based glue may deform paper if you use too much of it). Cyanoacrylate wouldn't be a good idea in this case, in my opinion.