Proto 2K E8 Questions

msh

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Hi All,

I've a Proto2K E8 I recently purchased from a friend that was damaged in shipping. I will need to replace the fuel tank since the tabs to hold the shell on were broken off. Where should I go to get this?

Also, if running the loco backwards it holds to the track well, but running forward, often the very front wheel set leaves the track on one curve, sabotaging the rest of the run. The remaining four wheels hold well. All are in guage and appear fine. Advice - other than increase curve radius?
 

Gary Pfeil

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Six wheel trucks can be very finicky about what curves they will negotiate. I have a P2K SD7 which derailed on one of my handlaid curved turnouts, after several other locos and trains had passed thru with no problem. That problem turned out to be caused by my superelevation, just beyond the frog the outside rail of the diverging route was a bit high causing the problem. In my case I was able to remove the rail, sand the tie a little and reinstall, problem solved. In your case the first place I'd look is for a kink in the curve, then at rail height. If you have a handheld throttle, or at least can get close to the derail spot while still controlling the throttle, watch carefully as the loco reaches the derail spot. Watch the truch action. At some point the front wheels will rise. The problem spot could well be where the rear wheel of that truck is. Good luck.

Gary
 

msh

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Hey Gary,

Thanks for the response. I'd actually think that the track was at fault too, but no other locos have issue with it and when I simply turn the E8 around and run it in the same direction it's fine as well. I just know the front truck is the point of failure.
 

Woodie

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msh,
What I might suggest having a look at too. If the loc was damaged when shipping etc, the chassis/frame may be just that little bit twisted. Sometimes, it is not noticeable.

What this will do, is cause one of the trucks of the loco to not sit "square and level" on the track. Again, may not be noticeable to the eye.

It will become evident as the loco rounds the curve, with the "twisted" end/'truck at the front. If the truck is twisted to the left, then it will fail on right hand curves, and vice versa.

As it enters, say, a left curve, there is less "weight" on the RIGHT wheels (due to the twist). This will cause the wheel to rise a little, and when it hits the curve, there aint enough pressure to keep the wheels from going over the edge.

This drove me mad with one loco. Go round left hand curves, no probs. Right hand ones? forget it.

You need to do as Gary suggests. And patience, with things like this is an admirable virtue! :rolleyes:
 

Gary Pfeil

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MSH, You may be right, but don't be so sure. As I said, 6 wheel trucks are finicky. Just because it will go thru ok backwards or in one direction doesn't mean the loco is at fault. In any case, do by all means inspect the truck. Compare it to the rear truck. Freedom of movement, etc. If both trucks are identicle, consider swapping them. My feeling is that you will have to do as I said earlier, get down at eye level and watch the truck as it goes thru the problem area. Run the loco as slow as it will go. Mark where the wheel lifts. Stop the loco at that point and observe where all the other wheels of that truck are. As Woodie said, it is going to take patience. You just need to eliminate one thing after another. Don't make assumptions. Good luck.

Gary
 

IMRL393

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My RI "Rocket" E8A handles 18 degree turns and switchs just fine.

I did have problems with one derailing going in one direction - turned out it was the coupler!

Have you checked both the coupler and the coupler hose for correct height using a Kadee (or a NMRA) gauge ???

The hose height was the problem in my case.

- George
 

msh

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I'm not experienced enough to tell the difference between trucks if there is something not obviously wrong. I can't swap them because 2 of the screws that hold the thing together are so tight (or glued down) I couldn't get them off - and may have stripped them. As to the track, I tested this thing no less than a dozen times and the two front wheels lift off at different points of the same curve - sometimes the beginning, the middle, the end, and all points in between. It's flat, in gauge and is not an issue to the loco when traveling rear end first... only forward. When traveling rear end going forward the problem truck does not leave the track. Okay - it's not the widest radius curve I've got, but it poses no issues to other locos I have. You can imagine my frustration.

Almost forgot - no couplers are installed at this time.

Thanks for the input.
 

marty w.

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msh,
Did you get the operating instructions? It includes a parts list and assembly drawings.

If you did, look at the postion of the Worm Retainer Clip P/N 15.
With that removed the trucks should come of.
You would have to unsolder the wires to remove trucks.

If the Worm Retainer Clip is not seated, it would make the truck lean to on side or the other.

I also would check the frame with a straight edge. It seems to me that if the tabs are gone or broke off the fuel tank, the frame would have to take a "hit" also. The tabs seem to be fairly stout.

If you need the operating instructions, I can fax or mail a copy to you. I do not have a scanner.

Marty
 

msh

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You know what? There was a coupler installed on the front - I just thought I had taken it off. You know what I did? I took the front coupler off. You know what happened? The wheels didn't come off the track. So I took a closer look at the protrusion the coupler clip goes on and noticed it has two holes in it. Seems I had the damn clip thing inserted in the hole nearest the cab rather than the furthest and that's what was doing me in. What's up with that? What's the second hole for, anyway? ARGH! It's the little things that will get you. Kind of like mosquitoes and ticks.

Marty - I thank you for your genuine interest in helping me with my problem. I'm just glad I found out what it was before I took this thing apart. Now all I need is that fuel tank and all will be good again.