Project CPR Selkirk T1

davidmbedard · Dec 23, 2004

Project CPR Selkirk T1 (56k beware)

The Goal........

In this thread I will document the process I have taken in my attempt to make a faithful representation of a CPR Selkirk in N scale.

David

davidmbedard · Dec 23, 2004

And a-bashing we go!!!!!

This victim for this project is none other than a Kato Mikado formally decorated for the CNR. I have NO problem bashing this particular unit. It is a good starting point because the drivers are the correct height and the piston/valve assembly is very close to what I will need.

DESTRUCTION.........I have always dredded taking apart my Mikados because of the many horror stories I have heard of people breaking pieces. I had no such problems (even so, who cares? Im bashing this little bugger!).

Here are the pieces of the venerable Kato Mikado....

Oh the horror!!!!!....LOL....Its not so bad.

David

davidmbedard · Dec 23, 2004

This biggest part of this kitbash is obviously the lack of one set of drivers. A Mike has 4 sets and a Selkirk has....5. Hmm...2 Choices here: either we add a driver to the front of the unit or add one to the back. After studying the unit, I decided the best way would be to add a driver to the back. This process is not difficult, just time consuming.

Here are the markings of what we want to remove.....

Notice where I scraped it. That is how much needs to come off to allow another driver to clear the chassis.

Ok....here are the 2 halves filed/dremmelled down.

If you look at the picture closely, You will notice that I also removed some of the weight to match the round contour of the boiler. The boiler of the Selkirk is longer than that of a Mikado. This will allow a longer boiler.

David

davidmbedard · Dec 23, 2004

Now is a good time to dryfit the 2 sides to make sure that the bashing is balanced...lol. Not much more to say about this particular pic.

Ahhhhh...the basher's BEST friend...sheet styrene...and CA cement!

This is OBVIOUSLY THE MOST IMPORTANT PART.......the new driver pocket has to be equally spaced from the others. There are many ways to do this, I just layed it on its side and marked out the original pockets on a piece of cardboard and then carfeully transfered that measurement by shifting the piece of cardboard over a space........I wish I had a picture.....It might take a thousand words to describe it!

Another thing that bashers need are various files. They are invaluable. If you are lucky (like me!) you will have a file that is very close to the width of the origional pockets. Now------------>VERY CAREFULLY<-----------file yourself a new pocket.

In the above pic, you can see one started.

David

Matthyro · Dec 23, 2004

WOW, an ambitious project David. Looking forward to seeing more.

davidmbedard · Dec 23, 2004

And TADAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!! You now have a 2-10-0 LOL....

This is the time where you have to test run this unit looking for binds or hesitations. You may have to run some temporary wires to power the unit while testing.

A few things about this picture......

1. WHERE THE HELL DID YOU GET THAT 5th DRIVER?.........

Funny you should ask that. The origional run of Mikes came with 4 sets of drivers. The pulling power of this locomotive with this arrangement was unsatisfactory to alot of modelers because of the lack of a tractiontire. Kato then produced for thoes disgruntled people (not for free) a EXTRA set of drivers with (YOU GUESSED IT) a Traction tire. Thats where I got the extra driver.

2. HAHA...YOUR DRIVERS ARE OUT OF QUARTER...FOOL.....

Yes they are. But you should notice that Drivers 3 and 5 are in sinc. Why is that you ask? Simple. When Kato origionaly make the Mike, they had powered the drivers 2,3 and 4. Driver 1 was a 'dummy' driver that was actually turned by the side rods. Drivers 2 and 4 were actually NOT connected directly to the side rods (because they are geared with the number 3 driver).

3. IN WHAT ORDER DID YOU REINSTALL THE ORIGIONAL DRIVERS?

OK....this is a little tricky to explain. So I will be thourogh.
The Origional drivers on the Mike we will call 1,2,3,4 (Starting from the pilot)
and the 'extra' driver 5. This is what you will find when you remove the drivers from the chassis....
Driver 1 has NO gears and has holes for the siderod pins.
Driver 2 has gears and NO holes for the siderod pins.
Driver 3 has gears and SQUARE holes for the siderod pins (master)
Driver 4 has gears and NO holes for the siderod pins (With Traction Tire)
Driver 5 has gears and NO holes for the siderod pins.

The only driver that needed modification was one with gears and NO holes for the siderod pins or put more simply....either Driver 2 or 5 (Ill pick 5). The modification done was simply the removal of the gears. This driver will be in the 'A' position ( I will be switching to LETTERS NOW to avoid confusion...LOL).

New Driver A=Old Driver 5 (Moded by removing gears)
New Driver B=Old Driver 2
New Driver C=Old Driver 3
New Driver D=Old Driver 4 (with traction tire)
New Driver E=Old Driver 1 (With holes for siderod pins)

If you can imagine (if you cant, just look again at the picture), the reason I moved the 'dummy' driver to the rear is obvious; it is ungeared and is "out in the open for all rivet counters to see". The NEW dummy driver is now in the A or 1 position and is hidden by the Valve stuff. We WILL eventually extend the side rods to the first driver, but I havent decided yet if I am going to attach it with pins.

4. AH HA!.....THAT LAST DRIVER IS GOING TO FALL OUT BECAUSE IT IS NOT BEING HELD IN BY THE ORIGIONAL UNDERFRAME!

Yes, thats correct!. Everyone has extra Kadee #5 coupler boxes around....I just extended the undercarrage with the 'top' of one-----perfect fit-----. Just use your imagination (a pre-requesit for bashers)...there are many ways to extend the origional under carrage!

That is it for today.

To be continued

David

SD90 · Dec 23, 2004

You sure dive into a project when you get your mind set on it! I look forward to seeing your progress! If anyone can do it, you can!

sams · Dec 24, 2004

David,
Great comprehensive tute:thumb:

:thumb:
can't wait to see more

thx

belg · Dec 24, 2004

David better you than me, I think I'll let you build this all by your self. There are some things I'll just not do myself and this is one of them. Good luck with your project. Pat

hswn · Dec 24, 2004

Good work nice to show that N scalers are capable of modeling and not running trains.
Brady

hswn · Dec 24, 2004

I better be more carefull typeing I ment [not just running trains]
Brady

siderod · Dec 24, 2004

David, wow...you really do dive into things...you layout might not rival Mr. SD90's, but your selkirk should put his abundance of SD40's to shame! Sorry mike....but it's true **smug grin**

Brady, nice to see someone else i know...you and Graham are both here now...welcome

hswn · Dec 25, 2004

2-10-4 trailing truck

I'm interested to know what you do for the trailing truck. If I'm not mistaken the trailing truck on CN's 5700's was very simular and I hope to do one of them in the future, useing an old B'mann "dead" 4-8-4 for drivers and build from there up. I have some other projects that have higher piority and I'm working to put together the tools and machines that I want.
Andrew I've been around here for a couple of years just keeping my mouth shut. Time for you to start working on some STEAM
Brady

siderod · Dec 25, 2004

Brady, thats probably why i've never seen your posts here before...your hard to miss at the shows though! LOL

davidmbedard · Dec 28, 2004

Here is the start to the boiler.

Brass tube of the correct diamater butted up against sheet brass and soldered.

Here it is rough cut

And polished.....sorry bout the fuzzy pics, the camera doesnt like shiny stuff!

davidmbedard · Dec 28, 2004

Next is the first banding around the boiler. This locomotive has a LOT of banding.......here is my reference pic...

I used the above drawing as a reference and printed it out in N scale.

I wrapped the banding around the boiler and soldered it.

davidmbedard · Dec 28, 2004

Now, the first banding is the most important because it actually wraps all around the boiler on the model. The others will actually terminate before they hit the chassis.

The next step is getting ready for the walkways. These walkways will also serve as a 'guide' for the rest of the bandings by cutting out 'band-ways' (making up this model as I go along). You can see it here on my N scale drawing. I transfered the banding locations to the brass via a pen and will commence the dremmeling of the bandways.

You can also see the mechanism in this pic. the drivers of this locomotive were used to scale down the drawing to N scale......and a quick teaser for the tender trucks....

Yup...thoes are Buckeye's

davidmbedard · Dec 28, 2004

hswn said:
I'm interested to know what you do for the trailing truck. If I'm not mistaken the trailing truck on CN's 5700's was very simular and I hope to do one of them in the future, useing an old B'mann "dead" 4-8-4 for drivers and build from there up. I have some other projects that have higher piority and I'm working to put together the tools and machines that I want.
Andrew I've been around here for a couple of years just keeping my mouth shut. Time for you to start working on some STEAM
Brady