progress on my layout

Discussion in 'HO Scale Model Trains' started by viperman, Aug 27, 2006.

  1. viperman

    viperman Active Member

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    I was thinking that I would start the incline just past the turnout on the right, and decline around that curve on the top left. Only looking for about an inch or two. I have a gap that track runs over between the boards, and this way I can make it look like there is actually a reason for it, not just the simple fact the boards don't line up. The previous owner had it set like this, and I never felt like fixing it, not that it would be that hard to.
    It sounds like we have the same idea, but if you wouldn't mind drawing up an illustration, that would be nice. This way, everyone else would be able to chime in too, in case we make it sound more complicated
  2. Canopus

    Canopus Member

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    Good point.

    Here's my input:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  3. viperman

    viperman Active Member

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    This is what I was thinking. VERY rough sketch, as I can't control what I do in MS Paint. The red marks are where the hill would start, on the right, and to the left where I would start to bring the track down to level
    [​IMG]
  4. Canopus

    Canopus Member

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    So yours is basically the same as mine but you've removed a lot more of the trackwork than I did. That's fair enough, it was rather crowded. At least you'll have more room for industries and things.

    I'd say go ahead and do it, I can't see any reason why it wouldn't work so long as you're only raising it by an inch or so. :thumb:
  5. viperman

    viperman Active Member

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    The only problem I'm coming up with, which is holding me back, is how to make it look real with the tracks so close together in some spots?
  6. UP SD40-2

    UP SD40-2 Senior Member

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    viperman, have you considered a brick wall ? i have done this on past layouts, and i think it turned out GREAT!:thumb: just a thought;) :D -Deano
  7. viperman

    viperman Active Member

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    I was thinking rock wall, but brick sounds good too. I think a trip to the LHS is in order sometime over the weekend, to pick up some risers, and a blue box kit or two. I'll worry about building a wall later, when I get to it.

    All my track is tacked down, and the bed glued down. Should I glue the bed to the risers, and glue the track to the bed, once I get it all in place, or...?
  8. Nazgul

    Nazgul Active Member

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    viperman,
    I would glue the inclines and risers first, then after they're dry, glue your cork to the top. When the road bed is dry I would nail the track in place....have fun and run your trains until you're sure the track is bullet proof! Lastly, when you ballast, you'll be gluing the track down. That's the way I'm doing it. I'm starting the ballast stage now and have been running trains for months without a problem. Just my advice.
  9. viperman

    viperman Active Member

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    I would be gluing the risers down first, then the cork road bed to that. Guess I will be tacking (nailing) the track to that then. I do plan to ballast, but not for a long time
  10. Nazgul

    Nazgul Active Member

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    That's the way I did it. Been running trains for months without gluing them....still workin' great:thumb:
  11. Canopus

    Canopus Member

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    This is a difficult one. You could actually uproot the tracks and move them so that they're further apart.

    If it was me (and this is just me talking here) I would want at least a natural grass slope on the inclines... I'd be happy with a concrete reinforced wall on the straight bits, but I wouldn't want it anywhere else. Of course it's up to you where you put it, but this is just from my point of view on what would be most realistic for this layout.

    The real question is, how realistic are you prepared to go? Because the track layout itself is inherantly unrealistic anyway, so no matter what you do you'll always have a compromise of sorts.
  12. viperman

    viperman Active Member

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    Yeah, the track plan is not realistic at all. I'm more or less using this layout as a test bed. I would like it to look good, but eventually I want to build a big one with my son, and get things figured out on this one. I can't move the tracks, as I already started the scenery in the one loop, and it would be a LOT of work that I don't want to do. Maybe I won't elevate the tracks. I'm still trying to come up with some scenery idea that would require it to be elevated, but not the inner track
  13. viperman

    viperman Active Member

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    Anyone want to try coming up with a track plan that would look more realistic? I would want to keep the outer track on the left where it is.
  14. Canopus

    Canopus Member

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    To be honest, it's going to be very hard to make a loop layout realistic. By the sounds of it you value your realism, and I'd say you're the kind of person who'd prefer an end-to-end layout rather than a loop, simply because it's more realistic. If I'm right, then you should use this layout as a test bed for scenery techniques, learning wiring, ballast laying, and other similar stuff. Look up "how-to" tutorials and just test-test-test till you get something that looks like an expert did it. Also, run your trains on it, and figure out what kind of operating you like to do. Some like road switching, some like local freight, some like yard switching, so find out what you like best.

    This way, once you've figured out enough to build a layout, you can go ahead and build yourself something more realistic without having to learn as you go. That's a very important factor if you want to avoid any pitfalls.

    I only say this because it's obvious to me that you're not completely happy with this layout. You're probably a bit like me; I can't take it if I "know" in the back of my head that something is not realistic, it has to be modified and put right. The number of models I've pulled apart and re-assembled because of this constantly shocks me.

    Personally, I don't know what I'd do with a layout like this. If I had to guess I'd say I'd take up all the trackwork, extend one end of the "U" shape, and use it as an end to end "J" shaped layout.
  15. viperman

    viperman Active Member

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    I have thought about making it an L shape, but not sure I've got the room in the basement for it. I do like having a loop, so I can just keep the trains running all the time. I just want a big long layout, so you can't see the loop so obviously. I do like the way switching layouts look, but that's not the type of running I like to do myself.
  16. viperman

    viperman Active Member

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    Yesterday I went to one of the LHS's and bout a WS 1" riser kit, and an athearn blue box box car I hope to assemble this weekend. A pic of the boxcar is both in the gallery and the freight car of the week thread
  17. viperman

    viperman Active Member

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    Ok, well, I realized I bought the wrong darn thing! I need the incline, not the risers! I thought they were the same thng, oh well. Now I just have to cut one in half on a diagonal, and post a pic of the completed box car
  18. viperman

    viperman Active Member

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    Here is a pic of the boxcar that I bought and assembled over the weekend. Now just to weather it, eventually
    [​IMG]
  19. Nazgul

    Nazgul Active Member

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    hey VP,
    can't you use the risers for the level elevated section or are you planning on using something else? Those WS inclinesare great and easy to work with.....just a thought.....love your boxcar!
  20. UP SD40-2

    UP SD40-2 Senior Member

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    viperman, NICE BOX!:thumb: since its a "collector car", you could just dull cote it to knock the shine off it, if you dont want to weather it;) . :D -Deano