Pre-Coated Paper Idea?

v3n1x

New Member
I was thinking about coating my paper before cutting and gluing it...like printing it, then impregnating it with clear spraypaint (will make it more durable and kinda glossy) and then i could use something like superglue to assemble it.

I used superglue on cardstock, it will simply soak it all up, and make nasty stains. If its coated, it might have a chance of surviving.

Does anyone have experience with this? Cuz i dont wanna use the cheapo paper glue, my stuff keeps warping because it wont dry quickly enough. And i dont have access to model glue, and no idea how that would work.
 

archangel777

New Member
the problem you may have is warping the card when you spray it. also a better option may be just to use the super glue, fiber glass it with resin, and paint it.
 

actias

New Member
I use sign shop vinyl laminated to cardstock for solid colors and print on the backside before laminating. That gives endless even colors
 
Z

Zathros

I would also advise against using superglue. You will experience severe lung problems as the base ingredient in superglue is cyanide. Michael's Craft Stores makes a great product sold by UHU, and another product called Zip Dry. Both are great, Lignen free, means they won't yellow themselves or the paper. Laminating Vinyl to card stock will invariably fail as the glue on the vinyl will dry up. It may take a long time, but it will happy. Vinyl laminates work good on non porous surfaces.

Fiberglass with resin is the opposite reason why people get into card modeling. People do make models this way, but they car not card models. They care fiberglass models using cardboard and other materials to help mold them. It's really not what most of us do around here, but some do, for different types of projects, it just isn't the main thing we do here. We predominantly deal with models, and objects made from paper. We try help and encourage people to stay close to this. :)
 

paper hollywood

Active Member
I'm guessing that UHU product at Michael's is "Creativ’ Craft Glue for Cardboard & Paper". That's what it's called at their website. Zip Dry is also at Hobby Lobby (think 40% off coupon).

I'd never thought about cyanide being in super glue, but that makes sense. It's pretty low odor, so I'd guess it doesn't usually produce a lot of fumes, but I guess it's a good idea to use it out in the garage just to be safe. I've never been too crazy about super glues for items that need to last a long time, though, because of it's tendency to deteriorate into a dust-like substance after a years.

As far as spraying model sheets before building, though, I always spray mine with fixative and I've never had a problem with curling. I suppose if you wanted to do several coats of something you might masking tape the sheets to a piece of cardboard first. Even if a sheet did curl, though, it probably wouldn't be a problem with most models since the amount of curl on the individual parts when cut out should be insignificant.

Wade
 

Glowyrm

New Member
I use a fixative as well on my kits. The Aleen's I use soaks right through it and haven't had any yellowing problems. If you are using cynoacetate(superglue) you probably do it for the quick dry, yes? Try Aleen's original tacky glue. I put it on with a toothpick from a pill bottle.Hold time is no more than about 20-30 seconds, usually less. Large pieces I use a old style glue stick. Hold time is longer, but the pieces I use it on are large and flat, so they get pressed under my mat for a few minutes.
 

arkon

Member
superglue came about during the korean war as a "field applied" stitch. thats why it bonds your skin so well to what ever you are gluing.
 
Z

Zathros

superglue came about during the korean war as a "field applied" stitch. thats why it bonds your skin so well to what ever you are gluing.

My Neurosurgeon told me it is still used. Since it is cyanide based (cyanoacrylate) it also kills any bacteria around it. I sliced my right index finger open deep enough that I cut deep into the pad.

I was pretty far from any place, riding/camping out with my motorcycle. I always carried a bottle in my tool kit. By the time I got to the "Quickcare" center, the doctor looked at it and said I should have 8 stitches out in but it was so clean, he did not want to reopen it. If it got infected, then he said he would have to open it back up.

I went back a couple of weeks later and we both were surprised how well it healed. I used the "gap" filling crazy glue.

I don't use it for modeling. At a safety meeting when I worked at Sikorsky's, they told us crazy glue, and it's equivalents have an accumulative effect and build up in your system. A master level modeler at Paper Modelers told me it has happened to him and his arms break into a really bad rash if he works with it at all. He will not open a bottle of it in his house. :)
 

Vince

Member
A few years ago, my boss was having her hair cut by a friend, who nicked her ear pretty bad. At the clinic she went to, they used a medical superglue instead of stitches. She healed up fine.
 
Z

Zathros

I think everybody remembers the kid who used to eat Elmer's Glue in their class! They turn into stupid adults that still eat Elmer's Glue, and apparently, are drawn to each other! :)

500x_hasselbecks_milk_ad.jpg
 

yazzy

New Member
you can use a spray before or after you make your model. its gotta be lite coats. But it can warp if you spray too much or if the paper is too thin.

Super glue is not the best glue to use. too many issues with it in the past. Many types of glue out there to use and works best with what you are doing as in paper and paints and resins. glue is cheap and suggest you buy a few different ones by the project you are doing.

I have at least 7 diiferent glues i have by what hobby I am doing and what i like to use. If its a slow glue, get some magnets, paper clips, cloths pins to help hold it together.

Good luck
 
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