PModel A6M2N Rufe Flaotplane

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by cmdrted, Nov 21, 2006.

  1. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    The next project is Pmodels (no I'm not an advertiser for them) A6M2N Rufe. This was Japan's succesful attempt at attaching floats to the A6M zero series of fighters. Surprisingly the float only slightly altered the flight characteristics of the parent fighter. So now the Navy had a scout plane capable of defending itself and with limited offensive capability also. The kit comes as a download in 1/32 scale, 10 pages of instructions and 12 pages of parts. the last 2 pages are optional connecting strips, for making the joins less visible. I started on the beaching cart because I edited the colors to make it more wood like. The kit color was basic dark brown no grain, and the metal connecting plates were brown also. I guess I could've rationalized that they just painted it all that color, but what the hey I tried out the texture fill in paintshop pro 10. They only other changes I made were to the cockpit parts. They were a little indistinct as first printed, so I sharpened them up and then added some contrast color to bring out the detail, a sort of printed 3d effect.

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  2. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    cool, looking forward to more!
    Chris
  3. rmks2000

    rmks2000 Member

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    Chris,

    I've got PSP 7 and have never really used it for card models. First, what do you import it as, a BMP (my version doesn't accept PDFs)? Second, how do you sharpen the lines; do you use the wand and trace it?
  4. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    You can use a sharpen cmd or unsharp mask, I just play around till it looks ok. I guess the trick is to convert the pdf into something your editor recognizes. I used to use a screen capture, set your resolution to the highest, which will make everything on the desktop look tiny, then open and enlarge the pdf @ 300%, and then take successive snaps, a sort of mosaic/patchwork of overlapping pics, then experiment by printing a part, measure it, then figure how much smaller you have to make it to the scale you want. Then cut and paste the snap shots to make complete parts. It is a bit slow but for me oddly relaxing. you can mentally build a kit that way. There are a few shareware/freeware pdf converters out there but PModels are password protected, so they don't always work.
  5. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    The PModel site is www.pmodel.net/ The site is in Japanese, you have to purchase something called c-check which used to be a relatively simple process, but involves some keystrokes that I've long forgotten , but Josef at Spishop sells these also and he makes it a heck-ov-a lot more easier.
  6. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    Carl, I've done it that way too. I actually used that method when I changed the colors on the GPM Phantom B. The only thing that baffles me is how do you change the color of the lines on the layer from red to black? I tried to change it by changeing the layer to black and white but got all fouled up. Is there another way?
  7. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    Thanks Carl, I actually found those keys and they work like you said. Anyways onto some progress. Taking advice from the site I started on some of the tedious detail parts that would've lost me awhile ago. I started on the radial engine. thanks to Rick working on the GeeBee, I finally got the nerve to try and build this one. 14 cylinders, a crankcase, pushrods and wiring harness and distributor later I think I have it. I drilled a hole center line and made a brass prop shaft and inserted it so the prop will spin later. The instructions Do Not allow for it to spin. If it causes something structural I'll just glue the prop assembly later.

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  8. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    The wiring harness, I thought about using fishing line but the card harness worked out ok

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  9. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    The Finished engine, now on to the cowling....

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  10. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Very nice! The wiring stuff really adds to the realism. Does that come in the kit?

    Rick
  11. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    dude! thats freaking great! excellent job on that engine, you really got me pumped waiting for more :D
    Chris
  12. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    Thanks guys, my first radial. The wiring does come with the kit. The cowling was next, according to the instructions it didn't seem toooo hard. just a few joins and circles but Holy Cow! there are about 30 some parts in the darn thing! They fit very well, it was a bit tight in places and I kinda creased the very first ring. I smoothed it up best as possible, I'm OK with it and it really isn't that bad in person but the "Macroscope" really makes it look bad. The instructions and parts call to have the cowling flaps applied as one complete strip, but I separated the flaps and glued them on individually. The engine fit in pretty good, covering most of the detail work, but a fair amount shoes thru the front, enough for tonight, got to get some rest for the big feast tomorrow, down side is this will be at the in laws, up side "her mother" can really cook. Too bad she talks too!

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  13. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    And the finished cowling with flaps...

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  14. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    The Wings

    Interestingly the next step after the engine and cowling is to build the wings. You start with a multipieced boxey type spar. This supports the wing the entire span and insures the proper dihedral. In a departure from other PModels they actually have you laminate a few formers to .5mm cardboard. these are indicated by a star on the parts. I saw this on a few bulkhead like things and scoured the instructions for a clue. As they are in Japanese I had to look for the symbol and gratefully in the last of the "verbal instructions" the star symbol and .5mm was connected so I 'sumed this was so.

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  15. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    The wing skins are in 2 pieces 2/3 of the bottom and the top with the other 1/3 bottom section. You attach the wing tips at this stage, prebend them and get ready to mount them to the spar.
  16. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    Forgot the pic, also a close up of the wing tips.

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  17. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    I departed from the instructions in one important matter. They would have you do the skins as one big huge continous section. This didn't make sense to me being 4 thumbed so I split construction at the centre join. I simply mounted the connector strip to the centre section instead of the wing root. This allows you to build the wings r and left. The wing skins are glued to the bottom spar, there is a guide line with the wing pattern on it that makes this task simple ans insures a great fit. I had a little apprehension when strecthing the top section over but everything lined up perfectly. My only trim was at the root, aft which was my fault and not the kits, excellant engineering!

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  18. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    Finished right wing. And yes this is the correct orientation, and correct side! Now on to the left.

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  19. josve

    josve Active Member

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    This is starting out to be a very interesting build!! Great work!!
  20. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    Wings second attempt!

    I finished the right wing and noticed some glue stains at the tips,complete with my finger prints. I tried to "gently" erase the spots with a rubber gum eraser. This succeeded in removing the glue spots, and the ink under them! Then I tried to match up the green ink with various shades of watercolors. That didn't match up too well, so then I sprayed the $#@$ thing with matte spray thinking it would kinda blend. It lit the stuff up like lights on a Xmas tree! So frustrated I tried out the 1/2 wings aerodynamic abilities by flinging the %#^%# thing against the basement floor. Man were those Zeros fragile! Anyways my tip for tonight, always , ALWAYS make sure you have no glue, paint, food, dirt or whatever residue on your fingers when glueing big parts! I started the wings again, and washing and drying my hands several times I finally got the wings done! The PModel system integrates the fuselage with the wings so you have to build the wings first, according to instructions then you build the fuselage around the wings. Kinda neat, but it is very differant than conventional kits. But this is my 4th build from thier kits and they do go together well.

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