PBY Catalina Consolidatrd Vultee Flying Boat

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by MAC99, Apr 9, 2013.

  1. zathros

    zathros -----SENIOR---- Administrator Moderator

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    The vertical stabilizer really flares wide on those craft, as can be seen in the picture below. :)

    [​IMG]
  2. MAC99

    MAC99 Member

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    It is me I know but that is an amazing looking plane,good encouragement pic
  3. Rhaven Blaack

    Rhaven Blaack ADMINISTRATOR Administrator Moderator

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    This is really starting to take shape!!!
  4. MAC99

    MAC99 Member

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    zathros you helped me with wing construction, which worked out very well.
    I am hopping I can get the right help again. you maybe renumber when the tail was glued on all wrong then it turned out the whole empanasche(tail feathers) was glued wrong I had to remove it all
    i have tried to turn the cone in the tail 3 times, it needs to be rolled very small on one end.
    I am not getting them even close to looking like it belongs on a Pby hope some one help out,

    MAC
  5. MAC99

    MAC99 Member

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    to start with I removed the whole tail cone and spent a lot of time with it I did finely come up wit a mildly acceptably cone KINDLE_CAMERA_1396495507000.jpg KINDLE_CAMERA_1396550367000.jpg
  6. zathros

    zathros -----SENIOR---- Administrator Moderator

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    I would advise reprinting that parts, round it's shape with a dowel, along the front to back axis, then do a dry fit, if not happy, then cut into manageable pieces along the panel lines. That way you can easily color any white edge black and the plane will look better for the effort.

    You won't have those creases, which actually appear on real aircraft that are involved in propeller strikes, or other situations which torques the whole empennage, and cause the aluminum skin to buckle and crease. I would reprint those parts, round the reprinted flat parts with a dowel, along the front to back axis, then do a dry fit, if not happy, then cut into manageable pieces along the panel lines. That way you can easily color any white edge black and the plane will look better for the effort. Rounding pieces on any model that has a curved surface with a dowel saves a lot of time, and also shows where you may come up on papers limitation, which means the part has to be cut there, to complete fairing (smoothing) the craft. I hope that helps. :)
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2014
  7. MAC99

    MAC99 Member

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    and all this brings me to I needed to DISPOSE of the first fuse, AND the second one is going much better the tail feather looks strait I now understand why some people list more than one current build KINDLE_CAMERA_1396550090000.jpg KINDLE_CAMERA_1396550142000.jpg KINDLE_CAMERA_1396550185000.jpg KINDLE_CAMERA_1399232378000.jpg KINDLE_CAMERA_1401821370000.jpg this time
  8. MAC99

    MAC99 Member

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    I did use rods of different sizes to work with I think on this cone to keep it wrinkle free lighter paper would be needed
  9. MAC99

    MAC99 Member

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    do you think I should cut it off and retry ,cuting on the two main panel lines
  10. MAC99

    MAC99 Member

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    zathros has all ways been a big help to MAC
  11. zathros

    zathros -----SENIOR---- Administrator Moderator

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    I would. You're not so far along that it would be much trouble. The end justifies the means. :)
  12. MAC99

    MAC99 Member

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    OK that will be my attack, those creases have been a problem from day one. The cone is so small at one end and a 2" eclipse at the other
  13. zathros

    zathros -----SENIOR---- Administrator Moderator

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    See if you can find a pencil sized shaft with hard ball end, you can take the end of the paper, work it with the ball end, and break the paper matrix without tearing it, use a hard, but soft surface, not too soft, not too hard. If you are good with your hands, your palm, and a rounded pencil eraser, using your palm fior the other end, you can feel the paper take shape. It becomes easier to form, and some glue on the inside will stiffen it back up. If your printer uses pigment Ink, you can wet the paper, better from the backside, and the ink will not run. :)
  14. cafe

    cafe Member

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    It looks so nice!
  15. zathros

    zathros -----SENIOR---- Administrator Moderator

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    It's a hard plane to build good, but when you do, it is a conversation centerpiece! :)
  16. MAC99

    MAC99 Member

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    OK! I like your idea Zathros. I used a tool I have before with a small ball on it the 1/16-3/32 not only to small but I used a hard surface. I think 1/4" ball and I have a pad fore pounce wheels some give but firm I did not put the two together until your mention of the two. maybe a drum stick?
  17. MAC99

    MAC99 Member

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    forgot, I aint quit yet!
  18. MAC99

    MAC99 Member

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    Thank you for the thumbs up Cafe. What do you think post #45 2nd pic the all with brown handle?
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2014
  19. zathros

    zathros -----SENIOR---- Administrator Moderator

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    Drumsticks are a great tool. I would be using either 67 lb. or 110 lb. at the most, and 67 pound cardstock for the tight stuff. Both roll well, and do not crease. Use much glue on the bulkheads, attach wide paper strips to them. This will prevent the "skeleton effect, and allow you to use more glue on a wider area the strips provide to attach the skins. :)
  20. MAC99

    MAC99 Member

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    I have been using the cannon photo matte I have heard people use 67 lb. and the 110 lb give me a brand name I have just build anew frame and fuselage version 4.0 the cone rolled perfect I found a better way apply the skin panels I put all three parts to gather Then I started getting crazing it started slow and know covers much of the plane skins , On this version 4.0 I did make several major leaps in the thinking in paper. Skill, lepta up I could feel it. I have some presentation paper but with less lbs maybe a new paper would help me out. I do I do need help well I have received much help with this problem and I do appeaser it all.

    MAC