so I have been stumbling around the internet for the last few weeks and I have found so many great models to build and while looking at those I have a question that seems to be always there is, what is the best paper to use? I know it is situational and I would love to see what people have to say for particular situations. but also I would love to see what people think is the (for lack of a better term) the "best" all around paper.
paper, paper, paper.
- Thread starter generaldiaz
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- Apr 5, 2013
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110 lb. cardstock for the heavy stuff, you can laminate it up if it need be heavier, and 67 lb. stock for the stuff you have to bend and shape. 1mm poster/portrait stock, that Michael's Craft Stores will give you pieces of, if you ask nicely, real nicely, for bulkheads of ships, or balsa wood. If you are making a big ship model, and want realistic looking walls on the superstructure, use plain printer paper, but firm it up with crazy glue. It will be firm, and look right, and in scale, to let's say, a battleship. Always think about that, how the parts would look in relation to each other, and that will lead you down the right path. 
hmm I think you just saved me a whole bunch for wasting paper on using all one type of paper on a project. thank you. I do defiantly have a shopping trip in my future. what would you recommend, modge podge or just normal crazy glue? would they have any effect on the actual model itself if colored? also would a different thickness effect color on paper?
I have tried paste sticks, elmers paste, elmers glues white and wood, tacky super tacky, super glue crazy glue and various kind of hobby glues. since im not out to win any contests and only want to de-stress by building the models, and understand how to make models, I have chosen Dollar Tree mini hot glue sticks and also the mini glue gun. I have spent 12 dollars in the last 2 years on glue and glue guns. it is satisfactory and I have built probably 450 models using this method. what most really expert modelers use is super glue or a clear acetate hobby glue. if anyone would know I would say ask zathros. why there isn't a thread called ASK ZATHROS, I don't know, but he know just about every damn thing in the world. in fact the ZATHROS search bar goes deeper and more thoroughly than bing or google or any kind or research tool known in history. and ZATHROPEDIA has all the answers. [ just kidding to make you laugh] but seriously if you ask him and silveroxide and other builders who post threads on building you will get your answers.
for my cardboard models I have been using hot glue for years to hold things together and I would not use anything else. my question was more towards him talking about using glue to harden parts and seeing which might be a better glue to use that would not affect the model adversely.
Most people (myself included) use super glue to harden most parts (especially the small parts that may break easy through handling).
- Apr 5, 2013
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Use UHU glue, non toxic, no lignin (will not Yellow). Then, for heavier holds, use ZIP DRY. It can't be beat. I stay away from crazy glues because of the build up of cyanide in your system. Very bad for you. Both of these are available at Micheal's Craft Stores. I have glued metal rails to cardboard walls with ZIP DRY, and plastic Windows to paper models with ZIP DRY, it will not let go. It forms a mechanical bond. Both non toxic and lignin free.
alright then. I have a shopping trip in my future. I just downloaded my first model and that seems like a perfect time to try out the glue. thank you for the pointers.
I'm a fan of Zip Dry as well. It has a rubber cement-like consistency. I've found that if you happen to get a smear of glue somewhere on the model where you don't want glue, you can rub that area (as long as it hasn't fully dried yet) and the glue will kind of ball up and come off the paper without damaging the paper. You can do a similar thing if you glue an edge and get too much glue in there; you can rub along the joint and get some of the extra glue off without damage. The more talented modelers probably don't need these rescue techniques but they work well for me.
thank you very much for the advice. it WILL help me. that probably just saved me a model in the future.
thank you for the zip dry hint, decades ago when I did plastic models I got allergic to super glues and the acetates and cyanides too. got real sick. I will try this!
Before you get started, don't forget to seal the parts with a couple of coats of a clear spray. I recommend Krylon Triple thick clear gloss, but Testors clear flat, semi, and gloss coats also work. You need to do this so the ink won't smear, and if you get glue on the surface, it will allow you to get it off easier. Just don't do it on a damp humid day, or it can fog up! Also another really nice glue to use is Aleen's Tacky glue, and Turbo tacky glue. Both are fantastic, and dry clear. It's thicker than say Elmer's, and grabs and dries faster too.
good to know. ill likely try out all of them and see what works best for me.
but... but... zathros, I thought I had to spray it on the tree first. no wonder it isn't working. on the plus side the squirrels just fall off the tree.
but... but... zathros, I thought I had to spray it on the tree first. no wonder it isn't working. on the plus side the squirrels just fall off the tree.