P 51D Halinski
- Thread starter tino
- Start date
I know that the quality of the work and the foto doesn't make justice to the model but I think that what counts is the intention.
I would like that this model could have the quality of the Ju 88 of Swinger but he really is one professional.
I would like that this model could have the quality of the Ju 88 of Swinger but he really is one professional.
Hi Tino
There is no such thing as a bad model :!:
If you enjoy building them, then all the work was worth it.
When I build planes they always look as if they are in the last phase of crashing. (bent buckled and parts shot to bits) :lol:
We look forward to seeing you finish this model and posting it for all to see.
Regards
Rob
There is no such thing as a bad model :!:
If you enjoy building them, then all the work was worth it.
When I build planes they always look as if they are in the last phase of crashing. (bent buckled and parts shot to bits) :lol:
We look forward to seeing you finish this model and posting it for all to see.
Regards
Rob
Another aircraft, that's great! 
What kind of glue do you use? Is it water-based?
This model's paper is quite thin; it makes it prone to various bashes, bends etc... Water-based glues aren't too good for it then, especially when used in larger amounts. You must be very careful, it isn't an easy model.
What kind of glue do you use? Is it water-based?
This model's paper is quite thin; it makes it prone to various bashes, bends etc... Water-based glues aren't too good for it then, especially when used in larger amounts. You must be very careful, it isn't an easy model.
Hi
I use cornflake packets for ships but you have to make sure they are "hard" cardboard some are just too floppy too use. If you are using PVA glue do not water it down use it neat. There is a lot more stress putting in aircraft formers.
barry
I use cornflake packets for ships but you have to make sure they are "hard" cardboard some are just too floppy too use. If you are using PVA glue do not water it down use it neat. There is a lot more stress putting in aircraft formers.
barry
That's right, and in Halinski's models it is very important to use cardboard as thick as the instruction says. Otherwise you may have problems with parts' fitting. These models' designs are f... khm, let's say, fanatically precise. ;-)
Hey all,
Tino... nice work mate
I have also been building this particular model and I'm in the process of writing a very detailed article about it along with dozens and dozens of photos and instructional material for the build.
I will post it for everyone's enjoyment when I'm finished... I think I have about 7 more hours of work on the plane.
That said, it's a wonderful kit - as detailed as any plastic kit of it's size out there on the market... but there are some keys to building this sucker so if you are planning on building it give me a quick shout at lgl@cedara.com and I'll send you photos of the key build sections.
As many of you know the Halinski instructions are somewhat lacking not only in clarity but in detail ... and that is why I decided to write the article so that someone who wants to get into the hobby can whip through this sucker with as little frustration as possible
Cheers all...
-Greg
Tino... nice work mate
I have also been building this particular model and I'm in the process of writing a very detailed article about it along with dozens and dozens of photos and instructional material for the build.
I will post it for everyone's enjoyment when I'm finished... I think I have about 7 more hours of work on the plane.
That said, it's a wonderful kit - as detailed as any plastic kit of it's size out there on the market... but there are some keys to building this sucker so if you are planning on building it give me a quick shout at lgl@cedara.com and I'll send you photos of the key build sections.
As many of you know the Halinski instructions are somewhat lacking not only in clarity but in detail ... and that is why I decided to write the article so that someone who wants to get into the hobby can whip through this sucker with as little frustration as possible
Cheers all...
-Greg
I to all,
and thank's for the support and help (specially for Greg that it is with since and before the beggining of the model).
Swinger the glue that I use is white glue, water based for the formers and UHU universal glue for the other pieces. I used white glue to glue the surrounding skin of the cokpit and the result wasn't the best.
The UHU seems to me to be perfect to this model because I can clean up almost every glue without let very visible marks only almost invisible or even any mark stays in the paper.
Yes swinger the fit is F...ing precise.
and thank's for the support and help (specially for Greg that it is with since and before the beggining of the model).
Swinger the glue that I use is white glue, water based for the formers and UHU universal glue for the other pieces. I used white glue to glue the surrounding skin of the cokpit and the result wasn't the best.
The UHU seems to me to be perfect to this model because I can clean up almost every glue without let very visible marks only almost invisible or even any mark stays in the paper.
Yes swinger the fit is F...ing precise.
Hey guys,
I also find that super glue is quite good when you need an immediate bond. I use Citadel Super Glue (I pick it up at the Games Workshop... hehe I also paint Warhammer stuff
)... this stuff bonds anything to anything in seconds. I use it very sparingly but it works great for areas I want immediate long lasting adhesion on.
I think everyone needs a nice arsenal of glues for paper models. The UHU Extra Alleskleber is an excellent all around glue, dries relatively quickly (in minutes) and dries clear. White glue is also good when you know you can walk away for 8-12 hours to let it set, and and instant bond glue for times where you just need immediate adhesion. /shrug that's what I have found anyway...
I have also read that you need to be careful about water based glues on paper models... like the general purpose white glue. But I'm not quite sure what the arguement was around not using it... so just to be on the safe side I think it's generally agreed that the UHU Extra Alleskleber is what most people use for their paper models. At least all the paper modellers that I have ran into
-Greg
I also find that super glue is quite good when you need an immediate bond. I use Citadel Super Glue (I pick it up at the Games Workshop... hehe I also paint Warhammer stuff
)... this stuff bonds anything to anything in seconds. I use it very sparingly but it works great for areas I want immediate long lasting adhesion on.I think everyone needs a nice arsenal of glues for paper models. The UHU Extra Alleskleber is an excellent all around glue, dries relatively quickly (in minutes) and dries clear. White glue is also good when you know you can walk away for 8-12 hours to let it set, and and instant bond glue for times where you just need immediate adhesion. /shrug that's what I have found anyway...
I have also read that you need to be careful about water based glues on paper models... like the general purpose white glue. But I'm not quite sure what the arguement was around not using it... so just to be on the safe side I think it's generally agreed that the UHU Extra Alleskleber is what most people use for their paper models. At least all the paper modellers that I have ran into
-Greg
Oh, and one more thing... the UHU Extra Alleskleber remains elastic once dry and does not crinkle paper. So even with temp and humidity changes that affect paper in terms of shrinkage and expansion - this glue will adjust to what the paper is doing... quite a good product.
Check out www.uhu.de for full info on their glues.
-Greg
Check out www.uhu.de for full info on their glues.
-Greg
Hi Greg,
I normaly always use white glue that it is water based and normaly don't have problems with her.
I've made the Model art La 11, Marek's Do 335, Modelik PAH HAC Tiger and others small models and don't have problems with the glue.
One thing I noticed is the white glue after being well dry is very, very, very strong and if the models are exposed to wet conditions the small models like FG models may warp a little but I think that is because I use normal paper (80gr) in smaller models
I normaly always use white glue that it is water based and normaly don't have problems with her.
I've made the Model art La 11, Marek's Do 335, Modelik PAH HAC Tiger and others small models and don't have problems with the glue.
One thing I noticed is the white glue after being well dry is very, very, very strong and if the models are exposed to wet conditions the small models like FG models may warp a little but I think that is because I use normal paper (80gr) in smaller models
Well, the main problem with water-based glues is that paper often tends to absorb them and then it warps, if you use too much glue. Of course, if you are careful, you can avoid it... It is possible. However, I don't trust these glues and I use butapren (chlorine-caoutchouc glue, probably similar to UHU Alleskleber) for bigger parts (and always for glueing the formers printed on normal paper onto cardboard). For the details - almost always water-based glues (butapren doesn't dry clear). Anyway, every modeller has his own glueing techniques. On Kartonwork forum there are real battles about glues. :twisted:
On Kartonwork forum there are real battles about glues. :twisted:
Tino:
if you could crop the photos to get rid of the white surrounding area it would give everybody much better view of the model.
One thing I found about the glues in the US is that I miss Butapren Swinger mentioned - I learned to build card models with it and no white glue can substitute for it for me...........
if you could crop the photos to get rid of the white surrounding area it would give everybody much better view of the model.
One thing I found about the glues in the US is that I miss Butapren Swinger mentioned - I learned to build card models with it and no white glue can substitute for it for me...........
Greg,
I am very interested in reading your article on building the Halinski P-51D. I am going to get this model in the near future, but probably won't have time to start building it for a couple months. The P-51D is my favorite World War II aircraft, so I was happy that Halinski introduced this model.
I am very interested in reading your article on building the Halinski P-51D. I am going to get this model in the near future, but probably won't have time to start building it for a couple months. The P-51D is my favorite World War II aircraft, so I was happy that Halinski introduced this model.
Hey Billmcc,
I'm almost finished the model and the article... if you want to get an advanced copy, just send me a quick e-mail at lgl@cedara.com and I'll send you the article as it stands...
-Greg
I'm almost finished the model and the article... if you want to get an advanced copy, just send me a quick e-mail at lgl@cedara.com and I'll send you the article as it stands...
-Greg
Hi all,
I have finally gotten a chance to post some selected pictures of my Halinski P-51 Mustang build... check them out in my Album. I have litterally about 60 photos or more that will all find their way into the article I'm writing about the build.
I have also posted a few of my fave dio's that I have built for your enjoyment.
Cheers gang...
-Greg
I have finally gotten a chance to post some selected pictures of my Halinski P-51 Mustang build... check them out in my Album. I have litterally about 60 photos or more that will all find their way into the article I'm writing about the build.
I have also posted a few of my fave dio's that I have built for your enjoyment.
Cheers gang...
-Greg
Hi to all,
I can now say that the first part of the great article made by our friend Greg is now posted in my site.
http://avioesemodelismo.planetaclix.pt/artigo.html
Don't forget it's only the first part of this great article.
Thank you Greg for everything.
Regards
Diamantino
I can now say that the first part of the great article made by our friend Greg is now posted in my site.
http://avioesemodelismo.planetaclix.pt/artigo.html
Don't forget it's only the first part of this great article.
Thank you Greg for everything.
Regards
Diamantino
Thanks Tino for posting the article.
All, please keep in mind that this is still a work in progress and may go through a number of revisions before I am totally happy with it
In fact the article is now much longer with more build sections already ... and like I said I need about 10 more work hours on the plane to complete it and about a few solid hours more on the article to finalize it.
Cheers...
-Greg
All, please keep in mind that this is still a work in progress and may go through a number of revisions before I am totally happy with it
In fact the article is now much longer with more build sections already ... and like I said I need about 10 more work hours on the plane to complete it and about a few solid hours more on the article to finalize it.
Cheers...
-Greg
Greg,
I just finished reading the first part of your Halinski P-51D article (thank you Tino for putting it on your website) and I am looking forward to reading the rest when it's finished. What kind of paint are you using on this model?
Also, could you please share the .pdf file containing the english instructions for the P-51D that Halinski sent you. You could upload it to the parts bin. Is that ok, Ron? I think it would be great if we could build a library of model instructions that are translated into english.
I just finished reading the first part of your Halinski P-51D article (thank you Tino for putting it on your website) and I am looking forward to reading the rest when it's finished. What kind of paint are you using on this model?
Also, could you please share the .pdf file containing the english instructions for the P-51D that Halinski sent you. You could upload it to the parts bin. Is that ok, Ron? I think it would be great if we could build a library of model instructions that are translated into english.