OV10 Bronco

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by barry, Jan 14, 2005.

  1. barry

    barry Active Member

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    OV10 Bronco from Moshe in 1/33 scale

    Time to do some big stuff again hopefully it will get finished the first cockpit got stood on deliberately. I tried using thin card and it creased too much on the curves so this is try 2 already.



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    Paint brushes out again !!!

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    barry
  2. barry

    barry Active Member

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    Ejector seat

    Hi All

    Nearly finished the first ejector seat, straps still to go. The black antiglare panel at the front is a bit tricky to fix in place I probably did it in the wrong order. I chickened out of chopping holes in the instrument panel, somehow I need to make a set of punches for such small holes.

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    Ok I missed painting the insides of the top handle flash is unfriendly but then it even chops out where you have touched up bits.

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    barry
  3. Hans Christian

    Hans Christian Active Member

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    Nice builld Sir!!! The bronco is my personal fav!!!

    By the way, is it Dr. Zarkov's model?
  4. rickstef

    rickstef Guest

    yes it is

    one of the best detailed ones he has released

    Rick
  5. Jim Krauzlis

    Jim Krauzlis Active Member

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    Another great looking build in progress, Barry! :D

    Even if you say you did something amiss with the instrument panel, she looks great to me!

    Looking forward to more on this one, mate!

    Cheers!

    Jim
  6. Hans Christian

    Hans Christian Active Member

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    How much is it again? $15.95? :D
  7. barry

    barry Active Member

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    Cockpit

    Hi

    I am not too good at nose cones so for other duffers like me I tack joint the curves together then stick the strengthening tabs behind and try to get a reasonable smooth curve to them as you can see I don't always succeed.

    I read all the articles on building fuselages where you put the strips inside the formers and then just twist them into place hey presto !!!!

    Well it does not work like that for me I end tearing the skin and my hair so I glue the joining pieces to the front of the former backwards that way I can follow the curve of the former and end up with a full glueing surface if it's too much i just put some notches in it.

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    This is what it came out like best I can do I glued the skin to the former strip about a 1/4" at a time
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    Believe it or not the colours are a fairly good match in normal light. Pity I have got the danger labels upside down on the ejector seats.

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    It's a good fun model so far

    @Hans

    Not sure of the normal price I bought this one in his Christmas sale.


    barry
  8. Jim Krauzlis

    Jim Krauzlis Active Member

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    Great work, Barry!

    That nose came out brilliantly, as I see it. Nice, snug fit to the cockpit piece, lined up precisely...really good job!

    Wouldn't bother about those ejector seat danger labels, I didn't notice anything until you mentioned it...and even then I have no idea anything is amiss.

    More when you can, mate. :wink:

    Cheers!

    Jim
  9. barry

    barry Active Member

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    Bronco fuselage

    Hi

    Spent all day building the rear end of the fuselage looks like needing quite a bit of filling and touching up still. It requires a lot of patience to get it anywhere near right and if my cutting was better it would be an excellent fit.

    This pic is because the rain stopped for a bit

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    I normally avoid showing the undersides cos they are usually rubbish but the fit on this model is excellent.

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    View of centre section and tail cone, again I shall add the joining strips to the front of the tail cone former and hopefully it will fit.

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    barry
  10. barry

    barry Active Member

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    Gondola

    Hi

    Finished (more or less) the card parts of the gondola fuselage. I sanded the rear end and tried to colour match I need some more practice.

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    Sorry could not resist putting Fuso's seaplane here 1/33 against 1/250.

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    barry
  11. Jim Krauzlis

    Jim Krauzlis Active Member

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    Hi, Barry! :D

    I like the way you smoothed over those seams on the rear gondola...what did you do to smooth things up?

    I find it's always a difficult thing to color match, at least for me, mostly trial and error, but as far as I can tell from the photos you did a pretty good job of it. What type of paint/color did you use?

    These days I usually use acrylic paints, but have used on occassion the water color pencils. Until I develop a better sense of their use I tend to stick to using the pencils for straight color, no tint adjustments, but with the paint I am more daring and do a fair bit of mixing to try and find the right match...even then, things seem to change a bit after the paint has dried. :?

    But it certainly looks a world better than having those white edges glaring at you, doesn't it? And you probably see it because when you build you normally pick out all the little things, while another doesn't even notice them.

    More when you can, mate!

    Cheers!

    Jim
  12. barry

    barry Active Member

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    Hi Jim

    I used dry, wet and dry paper (P800 in the Uk) then added a fill of white glue and another light sanding then acrylic paint it's somewhere near the colour but of course the texture is different to the ink jet. I'm almost tempted to paint the whole thing if I could find some transfers.

    regards

    barry
  13. barry

    barry Active Member

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    Wings

    Hi

    Added the wings and started one of the booms today. The framework for the wings looks a bit wobbly but using the skin to pull them into line seems to work.

    I hope it does the same on the boom I think the cardboard is a bit on the thin sidebut the the rear fairing on the wing should pull it back into place.

    Not so happy about the wheel well on the boom it seems a bit short and the front is not a good fit but it can be easily adjusted later and it's probably down to me anyway as everything else seems to fit well.

    It's a much bigger plane than I at first thought and the canopy is huge so that should be fun

    The wing tip is not so good it will need filling and sanding again

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    You can see the weak bit on the boom in this shot
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    barry
  14. bfam4t6

    bfam4t6 Member

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    As always, it looks great Barry.
  15. jleslie48

    jleslie48 Member

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    looking nice!!! and a well documented picture album build.

    I never heard of this plane but your pics have intriguied (sp?) me.

    BTW, nobody is good at nose cones. 8). the best I've been able to do is acceptable IMHO.
  16. Hans Christian

    Hans Christian Active Member

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    the OV-10 is a twin turboprop observation/light attack/reconaissance plane that served the USAF, USN and USMC during the vietnam war.

    My dad used to fly this plane when he was still with the Philippine Air Force.

    This plane is amazing, both in ground and flight. (got many hours of sitting time in the cockpit of this horse :wink: ) (my fav plane)
  17. barry

    barry Active Member

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    Cockpit canopy

    Hi

    I think this is about the biggest canopy you can pull using my crude methods the rear is moulded over a gypsum casting of the cardboard the front screen is built out of 3 pieces the result is a little floppy and tilted to one side but it pulls straight with a little persuasion. The ruler should give an idea of the overall size.

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    Boom still requires tail fin

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    Not glued

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    Canopy will probably need a couple of filets to finish it my carving is not that good

    barry
  18. Hans Christian

    Hans Christian Active Member

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    Still looks great to me sir :wink:
  19. Jim Krauzlis

    Jim Krauzlis Active Member

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    Superb work, Barry! :D

    The canopy came out really good; can't wait to see how it looks mounted. What type of glue do you use to mount the plastic canopy to the model?

    More photos when you can, mate. :wink:

    Cheers!

    Jim
  20. barry

    barry Active Member

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    OV10 cockpit

    Hi All

    Finally fitted the cockpit to the fuselage needs some strips adding to hide the rough bits but it came out better than I thought it would.

    When I made the mould for the cockpit I very roughly shaped the block and just as a check I pulled a cast from it and I got a good one straight away which goes to prove that when are not using a vacuum plastic takes the easiest curve so you can get away with something like this.

    It really does need a vacuum if you are a purist because I could only half con the sides to bulge out by pushing them up a bit having glued the back first then the windscreen.

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    I remembered the lap straps this time !!!!

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    When I say rough I mean this rough. I left the blue card bits on to give me something to sand to.

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    @Jim

    It's Rob's 503 stuff I would think it's somewhat like Aileens tacky glue from what has been said, but you have to be careful not to get it on the perspex as you can see on mine.

    barry