Nothing's Colt Navy..

Nothing's Colt Navy. Now a build thread!

Just finished this one, and what a beauty it is.

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Great subject, awesome colouring and textures, clear instructions.

There are a few fiddly bits, but all went pretty well, and only rates about a three out of ten on the blueometer (where 1 is a pleasant cornflower blue, for words like "golly" and "oh, Pooh", and ten is deep, royal blue for those special occasions when you have to make words up).

I've added a lot of internal reinforcement to this model, particularly after a near disaster with the hand grips. I think these would have been better with a separatlely modelled frame with the 'wood' parts added after completing the 'Brass' frame. now that I think of it, this would also allow the modeller to carve up some wood grips out of bass wood if they should so please.

Also, It would have been nice to have the whole barrel/ breech bit as a single piece to avoid the seam line where the barrel joins the rest of the weapon.

I'm off to order the derringer.....
 

dkaniel

New Member
WOW! That looks excellent, aside from the seams on the grip I would have thought it was a picture of the real firearm. I think I will have to purchase the model.
 
thanks! Yes, the seams on the grip are a bit of a givaway. I'm thinking of doing the whole thing again, with some carved bass wood grips for a more realistic finish.

I'm most of the way through the derringer now, and it's every bit as good as the colt. Can't wait for more in this series.
 
Okay, I've started Again. Not that I'm totally unhappy with the first one, I just think I can do better.

First thing that occured to me during the build of the last one, was that it's fairly flimsy, and could do with some reinforcement, which is what I hope to show in the next few posts.

Step 1: The Pistol Grips.

The pistol grips as supplied fold up from a single piece of card in a particularly clever and nifty manner, but leave you with a structure that won't tollerate a lot of handling. This is problematic when you are as ham-fisted as I am, and like to grip onto one part of a model none too delicatly whilst working on another. I have lots of Squishy models, and I want to avoid that this time round.

So. A frame is needed. Problem: I'm not sure of the exact shape it's supposed to be. My first effort is adequate (I aspire to adequacy..), but bulges in a few places it shouldn't, and has a pronounced bend to the left, so I can't use that to measure from. Solution: a quick email to Nothing (the designer) who promptly and wonderfuly supplies a profile plan. From there it is fairly easy to plan out a box section, that will take the place of the central Brass part of the grip.

I cut the pieces in 1mm card, and assembled them with white glue, with some CA on the inside to stiffen things up.

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I used the kit parts as templates for the remainder of the pieces, The sides were made with a double thickness.

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Continuing on, the bulk of the frame was soaked in CA and sanded 'till Smooth.

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HHmmmmm. Smmmoooothhhh.

The hand Grips themselves are carved from Balsa. Okay, okay. it's not paper. Meh. sue me. :mrgreen: I did the paper ones before, and they're good, but the unavoidable lines in the handle are the only real givaway that the model's not made of wood and steel.

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Comments please!
 
Very nice pics! Personally I don't have a problem with mixing "media" to achieve a desired effect. Besides, it's still paper technically.:thumb:
 

clif52

Banned
This might be a dumb question, but could you make formers like in a ships hull or an airplanes wing and glue one skin on and add a second piece at the bottom to create a grip skin over the formers?
 

JT Fox

Member
This might be a dumb question, but could you make formers like in a ships hull or an airplanes wing?

That's what I was thinking. If you want it to you could then go down the expanding foam option, as seen on a ships hull somewhere, to add firmness.

The question is could you soak some paper to make it flexible and then stretch it over the foam. No seams.

Cheers JTF
 
Yes, it could be done that way I guess, but I've never had a lot of success with that method, plus you'd have to repaint the grips anyway.

I believe Nothing may be working on some reinforcement to the grips, but don't hold me to that.

One should note, that all the extra work I'm doing is not nessesary to complete this wonderful model, I just want something a little sturdier.

here's a pic of the first grip I made:

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Next bit: The frame.

Okay, This is probably a tad overengineered, but I went ahead anyway. lessons learned from my first build helped figure all this out.

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...all was going well until I realised I had the round face bit on backwards. it's all good now though.
 
Whoops! got a bit exited, forgot to take some photos. so sorry if it jumps ahead abit...

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I've decided at this point to secure the frame to the grip, to give me something to hold onto while I work on the rest of it.

(here's where it jumps ahead...)

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as you can see, I've added the "bulgey bits" (a technical term), and after much sanding/ supergluing/ spraying, rinse and repeat, I have a nice shape, Which I hope the kit parts will fit over.. :cry:

They don't.

Oh well, paint it is. I just hope I can come close to matching nothing's awesome colouring.

I might as well spray the brass, as it's simple, quick and I have a spray bomb around here somewhere.

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hmm. I'll have to leave that to dry.
 
Ah yes. The curse of perfectionism...

Next bit: Part 6, the central cylinder retainer thingy.

IMPORTANT NOTE: The finished model relies on this part for most of its finished strength and alignment. It's strongly reccomended that it be attached a firmly as possible and wrapped around some form of strong tubing. I've used plastic tube, and recessed it into the face about 5mm, and used alot of superglue. Also be very careful to make sure that it is straight and true before it dries.

The Screw heads were added from wee circles of card with their centres chopped out, and painted with acrylics. They're a bit oversized (my fault) and I suspect that the "real' ones are countersunk, but I like the added chunkyness.

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Hammer Time!

(the following section does not require purple parachute pants, but I think they help...)

the hammer parts were tripple laminated and then stuck together:

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the whole assembly was generously covered in superglue (I use the cheapest superglue/CA I can find at bargain stores...), and sanded then undercoated, then sanded some more, superglued, sanded, undercoated, sanded a bit more, etc etc.

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When nice and smooth, it was painted black:

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And painted to match (as best I could) the printed textures.

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....and attached.

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many of you will have noticed that I've changed the shape of the part, and I'm not using the alignment pins. I decided early on not to use the moving parts option, this also means no pins. Be Careful, however, as the pin that holds hammer in position also aligns the rear frame parts so everything lines up, something I found to my detriment during the first build, When I ended up with a huge gap at the rear of the frame assembly.
 

Nothing

Longtime Member
i am absolutely blown away with what you have done with this!! you have some very good painting skills my freind! wow! now youre getting me excited to do another revolver!
 
Thanks! I'm probably going to give UHU02's Samaritan pistol the treatment next (HUGE!!!), as I decide on the legalities of your thompson (replica weapons are a no no here unless licenced..wall1.)

The 1851 colt is too old to count, and would be classed as a decorator piece, even a real one. I'll probably get away with the derringer.

I'm thinking if you are going to another revolver, it should be a peacemaker, to keep the punters happy. :thumb:

on with the show!

Part Something: the cylinder.

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As usual, reinforce everything. This time, I need it to be quite thick at the back because I'm going to add the pawl/catch/hole thingys to the sides of the cylinder, which are on the printed version, but are only 2D.

Now the front bit and chambers. I imagine the Chambers on the Real weapon must be smaller towards the rear to allow for the depth of the aformentioned pawl/catch/hole thingys, but the simple solution for me was to just shorten them.

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The front bit is probably one of the most delicate pieces in the whole thing, Superglue to the rescue! Soaking the whole thing in a good layer of superglue turns the front bit into something more akin to plastic, and is about as durable. This also allows for a bit of gentle reaming of the holes to ease fit.

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And now the part of the Cylinder that I like to call the 'Udder', for reasons which will become obvious shortly.

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This made up of a Star shaped bit and a bunch of fold-up 'cups', and i must admit to having made a bit of a dog's breakfast out it on the previous version. so rather than fold it up, I thought I'd build it up instead.

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and finally I added the (block your ears kidywinks, I'm going to say Nipples)
nipples from rolled paper.

Now I have to admit to a potentialy nasty mistake I made earlier, in attaching the frame face a tad to low, Which caused the cylinder NOT TO FIT!!!:curse::curse::curse:

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Never mind. thankfully there was an easy, if ugly fix which is not going to be noticable on the finished model

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....*hangs head in shame*.......
 

Nothing

Longtime Member
cool. so Australia wont allow even paper guns? im not tryin to say anything bad here im just fascinated at the degree of gun control there.
 
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