NOBI's Yak-17 in aluminium

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by spirtos, Sep 1, 2006.

  1. spirtos

    spirtos Member

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    I have just finished the (free-thank you mr Nobi) Yak-17 using aluminium foil.It was the first time I tried this and I started this project in an experimental mood.
    The kit has 2 A4 sheets for the parts but I printed 5. I printed the parts once in 160gr paper, I reprinted them -mirrored thiw time- in 80gr paper and in another 80gr A4 I printed the markings.
    The foil I used has a matt side and a gloss side.I used a sandpaper on the gloss side(I could not glue it successfully otherwise) and then glued it on the back of the mirror prints.I let them dry and then I cut over every line so I had manu aluminium panels , which I glued on the original part sheets

    [​IMG]

    Of course I forgot to put a small weight in the nose so I had to use double-sided tape to make my Yak stand correctly for the pictures :)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I also made a canopy mold using papier-mache. Seemed easy , although I will be more carefull next time...
  2. spirtos

    spirtos Member

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    I have just finished the (free-thank you mr Nobi) Yak-17 using aluminium foil.It was the first time I tried this and I started this project in an experimental mood.
    The kit has 2 A4 sheets for the parts but I printed 5. I printed the parts once in 160gr paper, I reprinted them -mirrored thiw time- in 80gr paper and in another 80gr A4 I printed the markings.
    The foil I used has a matt side and a gloss side.I used a sandpaper on the gloss side(I could not glue it successfully otherwise) and then glued it on the back of the mirror prints.I let them dry and then I cut over every line so I had manu aluminium panels , which I glued on the original part sheets

    [​IMG]

    Of course I forgot to put a small weight in the nose so I had to use double-sided tape to make my Yak stand correctly for the pictures :)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I also made a canopy mold using papier-mache. Seemed easy , although I will be more carefull next time...
  3. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Thats very interesting! Thanks for telling us how you created it - I never in a million years would have came up with (as usual) :D
    Chris
  4. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Thats very interesting! Thanks for telling us how you created it - I never in a million years would have came up with (as usual) :D
    Chris
  5. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

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    Great looking model............and a lot of work...........and looks like your experiment worked!

    Red River Paper company makes a silver paper(it ain't cheap) but it print very good on inkjets and looks really good for models.

    That would eliminate the cutting out the various panels and gluing them back in order.

    I think Rob did one of his Hunters this way.

    I found it!

    Attached Files:

  6. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

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    Great looking model............and a lot of work...........and looks like your experiment worked!

    Red River Paper company makes a silver paper(it ain't cheap) but it print very good on inkjets and looks really good for models.

    That would eliminate the cutting out the various panels and gluing them back in order.

    I think Rob did one of his Hunters this way.

    I found it!
  7. ekuth

    ekuth Guest

    Spirtos-

    Try using a spray on glue to coat the back side of the aluminum foil and then tacking it to the model and trimming as needed. I used good old Reynolds brand rather than the cheaper foil because I wanted the extra thickness.

    You shouldn't have to sand at all.

    I used this technique with a plastic model of a P-38J and it turned out very very well.
  8. ekuth

    ekuth Guest

    Spirtos-

    Try using a spray on glue to coat the back side of the aluminum foil and then tacking it to the model and trimming as needed. I used good old Reynolds brand rather than the cheaper foil because I wanted the extra thickness.

    You shouldn't have to sand at all.

    I used this technique with a plastic model of a P-38J and it turned out very very well.
  9. rmks2000

    rmks2000 Member

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    As an alternative, you could build the kit as is (with the laminated foil), and then draw the panel lines using a drafting pen or very fine permanent marker.
  10. rmks2000

    rmks2000 Member

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    As an alternative, you could build the kit as is (with the laminated foil), and then draw the panel lines using a drafting pen or very fine permanent marker.
  11. Gil

    Gil Active Member

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    Aluminum Foil Paper

    Spiritos,

    Great work and better yet, ingenuity! The following is a quotation from an old thread. Coated paper can be created from uncoated stock by spraying it with two coats of Krylon Crystal Clear...., -Gil

  12. Gil

    Gil Active Member

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    Aluminum Foil Paper

    Spiritos,

    Great work and better yet, ingenuity! The following is a quotation from an old thread. Coated paper can be created from uncoated stock by spraying it with two coats of Krylon Crystal Clear...., -Gil

  13. rmks2000

    rmks2000 Member

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    Gil,

    Is it better to bond foil to coated paper rather cover stock so that the laminate won't be too thick, and therefore easier to work with? Also, have you successfully printed on the foil laminate? If so, is the result better on polished vs. unpolished? Finally, do you coat the printed laminate with a clear acrylic prior to using building with it? Sorry for all the questions.
  14. rmks2000

    rmks2000 Member

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    Gil,

    Is it better to bond foil to coated paper rather cover stock so that the laminate won't be too thick, and therefore easier to work with? Also, have you successfully printed on the foil laminate? If so, is the result better on polished vs. unpolished? Finally, do you coat the printed laminate with a clear acrylic prior to using building with it? Sorry for all the questions.
  15. ekuth

    ekuth Guest

    Interesting...

    I know the spray adhesive never had trouble bonding the foil, at least for me, but I did run into the wrinkle effect in tight areas.

    I solved it by very carefully burnishing the wrinkles out with a rounded wooden dowel (the end of a pencil or other) and trimming away in sections.

    The resulting seams were not terribly noticeable and actually gave a more realistic look to the project.
  16. ekuth

    ekuth Guest

    Interesting...

    I know the spray adhesive never had trouble bonding the foil, at least for me, but I did run into the wrinkle effect in tight areas.

    I solved it by very carefully burnishing the wrinkles out with a rounded wooden dowel (the end of a pencil or other) and trimming away in sections.

    The resulting seams were not terribly noticeable and actually gave a more realistic look to the project.
  17. Fishcarver

    Fishcarver Active Member

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    Nobi's YAK 17 was my second ever card model build. I rescaled it to 1:72 and got a nice little model out of it. So, I am still here!

    Your build looks GREAT!

    Jim
  18. Fishcarver

    Fishcarver Active Member

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    Nobi's YAK 17 was my second ever card model build. I rescaled it to 1:72 and got a nice little model out of it. So, I am still here!

    Your build looks GREAT!

    Jim
  19. Gil

    Gil Active Member

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    More on Aluminum Foil Paper

    The problem with coated paper is the coating is not an inkjet receptor coating meaning inkjet printing will not work. The method is to mirror your image and print it on 100% cotton paper for foil thicknesses of around 3-5 mils. For kitchen style "Reynolds Wrap" foil normal cardstock of 65-90 lbs works great. The reason for 100% cotton paper is to allow the aluminum to be "worked" after it is bonded to the paper which is not an issue in this application. Seal the backside of the paper with the Krylon Crystal Clear which will keep the Tack-It Over & Over from wrinkling the paper. I use a foam paint roller to spread the mixture evenly on both surfaces. The Aluminum will need a bit more attention than the paper to get an evenly distributed layer. The Over & Over is the same glue that's used to cement foil leaf but under a different guise. When used on both surfaces it becomes a contact cement. Once bonded up the parts can be cut out as per a normal card model only inside out for NAF. The surface can be then be polished with 0000# Steel Wool to shine it up after scribing panel lines and making rivet lines with a pounce tool. Use dymo label tape cut in half to align the scribing and pounce rivet making tools or make your own out of thick card and Over & Over. Once it's all assembled give the surface a light buff with steel wool and seal the surface with a coat of Crystal Clear.

    -Gil
  20. Gil

    Gil Active Member

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    More on Aluminum Foil Paper

    The problem with coated paper is the coating is not an inkjet receptor coating meaning inkjet printing will not work. The method is to mirror your image and print it on 100% cotton paper for foil thicknesses of around 3-5 mils. For kitchen style "Reynolds Wrap" foil normal cardstock of 65-90 lbs works great. The reason for 100% cotton paper is to allow the aluminum to be "worked" after it is bonded to the paper which is not an issue in this application. Seal the backside of the paper with the Krylon Crystal Clear which will keep the Tack-It Over & Over from wrinkling the paper. I use a foam paint roller to spread the mixture evenly on both surfaces. The Aluminum will need a bit more attention than the paper to get an evenly distributed layer. The Over & Over is the same glue that's used to cement foil leaf but under a different guise. When used on both surfaces it becomes a contact cement. Once bonded up the parts can be cut out as per a normal card model only inside out for NAF. The surface can be then be polished with 0000# Steel Wool to shine it up after scribing panel lines and making rivet lines with a pounce tool. Use dymo label tape cut in half to align the scribing and pounce rivet making tools or make your own out of thick card and Over & Over. Once it's all assembled give the surface a light buff with steel wool and seal the surface with a coat of Crystal Clear.

    -Gil