NKP Caboose

[COX 47]

This is a NKP caboose that I just finnished...Its a old Roco-AHM from the junk box the I stripped and put new couplers on...Decals are not as good as I would have liked as the old decals came apart and I had to piece them back together on the caboose...Kinda tuff in n scale...Cox 47

 

[steamhead]

Hey...!! That's a good looking 'boose....Never mind the decals...In N-Scale you'd need a magnifying glass to see them anyway..!! Show us som'more of your stuff...:thumb:

P.D. I think from my avatar you can tell I'm into cabeese....

 

[COX 47]

Gus I am a big caboose fan too...here is one of my favorites..IC transfer caboose...kit bashed from a Bachmann caboose...Bachman GP 38 handrails..scatched frame with Bman steps...Cox 47

 

[steamhead]

That's a neat "conversion"....I did something similar with an Athearn caboose kit, of which I had two...so I decided to turn one into a MOW car....:mrgreen:

This is what I ended up with....

 

[COX 47]

Gus thats a neet MOW car...Do you have any more MOW cars? I would like to see them...Cox 47

 

[steamhead]

Hi...No..That's all I have at this time....Gotta build a couple of more to put together a MOW train....

I do have the "original" of the avatar pic....

It was lighted at first, but the flickering of the lights (truck pick ups) was a real turn-off. I'm going to go the battery/reed switch route to get the lights back on....

 

[jmurphy148]

What's the battery/reed switch route? Maybe it's something I could use in my Kato Amtrak passenger cars with the flickering lights.

John

 

[steamhead]

Hi John....You use a battery(s) for power and a reed switch to turn the light on/off. The reed switch is mounted internally and is turned on/off with a magnetic "wand". That way you don't have to poke holes on your cars....

 

[MilesWestern]

You could also just wire up a large CAPACITOR to your current wiring situation, so the car can maintain a more even lighting situation. It costs nearly nothing, and the results are very good.

 

[jmurphy148]

I like that idea. Think I'll try it.

John

 

[steamhead]

Hi...MilesW...Could you elaborate a little on this..? What size/rating capacitor, and is it wired in series or in parallel to the bulb..? Also, what kind of a resistor might I use to bring the light level down, as the 'boose will be operating on DCC (14-16v)...? Tx..

 

[MilesWestern]

Gus,

I'd say a fairly large one, I read back in an MR article about this technique for passenger cars. I wish I had better info.

I'd imagine it'd be one of those capacitors that look like modern aluminium beer kegs, but about O scale in size. Sorry for such sketchy info.

Perhaps installing two, one going to each wire would be good also?

 

[brakie]

Hey...!! That's a good looking 'boose....Never mind the decals...In N-Scale you'd need a magnifying glass to see them anyway..!! Show us som'more of your stuff...:thumb:

P.D. I think from my avatar you can tell I'm into cabeese....

Actually it DOES matter..A poorly decalled locomotive or car looks bad regardless of scale.Now unless you have bad eye sight you surely don't need a magnifying glass to see N Scale decals..Even with my glasses off I can still decal my N Scale equipment.

 

[COX 47]

Brakie your blessed to be able to see n scale lettering without your glasses...I can't so just have to do the best I can..I was also working with old decals that came apart when I put them on and had to piece them back together..Cox 47

 

[brakie]

I really hate when decals fall apart regardless of scale..It makes the job that much harder..

I think you did a very good job under those conditions.:thumb: To be honest I pitch 'em if they come apart in to many places.

Rest assured my comment WAS NOT directed toward you.It was just a blanket statement concerning decaling in general.

Of course hindsight being 20/20 I wish I included that in my first reply.ops: