Newbie needs help with rocket tips

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by matt, Aug 28, 2006.

  1. matt

    matt New Member

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    Hi, during a bit of spring cleaning I dug up a GPM F-18 model that I started and forgot about years ago. I decided to give it another go and splurged on some new toys including Fiskars micto-tip scissors and a self-healing mat. Both of which I found out about on this forum! Thanks everyone.

    Now my problem is the tips of various cones (on missiles, nose cones, sensor pods etc.)

    In the middle of the photo is the nose cone which looks rather bad because of the black lines running to the very tip. On the right are the fuel pods; I made a mess of the original tips so I made some from scratch. They aren't the same colour but at least I'm happy with the fact that they look relatively smooth and clean. On the left you can see that I'll have to deal with this problem a few more times! What's the best way to deal with these situations? Trim away the black lines before gluing up the tips? Painting afterwards? Or am I being too picky with my first model?

    [​IMG]
  2. matt

    matt New Member

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    Hi, during a bit of spring cleaning I dug up a GPM F-18 model that I started and forgot about years ago. I decided to give it another go and splurged on some new toys including Fiskars micto-tip scissors and a self-healing mat. Both of which I found out about on this forum! Thanks everyone.

    Now my problem is the tips of various cones (on missiles, nose cones, sensor pods etc.)

    In the middle of the photo is the nose cone which looks rather bad because of the black lines running to the very tip. On the right are the fuel pods; I made a mess of the original tips so I made some from scratch. They aren't the same colour but at least I'm happy with the fact that they look relatively smooth and clean. On the left you can see that I'll have to deal with this problem a few more times! What's the best way to deal with these situations? Trim away the black lines before gluing up the tips? Painting afterwards? Or am I being too picky with my first model?

    [​IMG]
  3. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Trim the black lines away completely before gluing and color the edges with something close to the color of the model. In this case if you use black it will look similar again. Try using a plain old pencil. :)
    Hope that helps!
    Chris
    p.s. welcome!!
  4. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Trim the black lines away completely before gluing and color the edges with something close to the color of the model. In this case if you use black it will look similar again. Try using a plain old pencil. :)
    Hope that helps!
    Chris
    p.s. welcome!!
  5. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

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    Yeah trim the lines away and color before glueing. Try going to an arts supply or hobby store they have gray markers that come in different intensities 20%.. 30%.. 70%.. gray....... they really work great for end coloring on almost any color..........lighter gray for the lighters colors and darker gray fro the dark..........


    Also another tip......... if you re-size your pictures to as close to 640x480 as you can it will not change the size of the thread and it will fit all on one screen without the scrolling bar.

    And even after building all the models I have I HATE petal ends......... I can NEVER get them to line up and look good!

    john
  6. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

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    Yeah trim the lines away and color before glueing. Try going to an arts supply or hobby store they have gray markers that come in different intensities 20%.. 30%.. 70%.. gray....... they really work great for end coloring on almost any color..........lighter gray for the lighters colors and darker gray fro the dark..........


    Also another tip......... if you re-size your pictures to as close to 640x480 as you can it will not change the size of the thread and it will fit all on one screen without the scrolling bar.

    And even after building all the models I have I HATE petal ends......... I can NEVER get them to line up and look good!

    john
  7. thewoodengraver

    thewoodengraver Active Member

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    matt,
    try EVERYTHING until you come up with a solution you are comfy with.
    Personally, I think it depends on the model and the design. some designers want you to cut the lines off, some want you to leave it on.
    Try both methods until you get the best fit, then use acrylic paint to touch-up. Acrylic paint will never " bleed", and if done well, no one will ever know you touched it up.

    Of course you have to match the color precisely or do some creative blending.
  8. thewoodengraver

    thewoodengraver Active Member

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    matt,
    try EVERYTHING until you come up with a solution you are comfy with.
    Personally, I think it depends on the model and the design. some designers want you to cut the lines off, some want you to leave it on.
    Try both methods until you get the best fit, then use acrylic paint to touch-up. Acrylic paint will never " bleed", and if done well, no one will ever know you touched it up.

    Of course you have to match the color precisely or do some creative blending.
  9. barry

    barry Active Member

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    black lines

    You can apply pva glue until the card is stiffer then sand it and paint it with acrylic paints.

    regards

    barry
  10. barry

    barry Active Member

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    black lines

    You can apply pva glue until the card is stiffer then sand it and paint it with acrylic paints.

    regards

    barry
  11. matt

    matt New Member

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    Hi again,

    I'll try to remember to shrink down my images a bit more in the future (my monitor displays with a 1280x1024 resolution so I tend to make my images big).

    What sort of 'markers' do you recommend? I'm guessing something similar to a felt pen, but won't that bleed into the paper too much? I guess if you match the colours correctly then it won't matter? Which brand do you use? Maybe I can find it here in Australia. I'm also glad to hear that petal ends are not just my frustration.

    The nose cone has already been glued so I'll try to fix that with the acrylic paints. Luckily the very front section is just plain white so colour matching won't be a problem!

    Thank you all for the tips, it's great to have such an active forum with such quick replies.
  12. matt

    matt New Member

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    Hi again,

    I'll try to remember to shrink down my images a bit more in the future (my monitor displays with a 1280x1024 resolution so I tend to make my images big).

    What sort of 'markers' do you recommend? I'm guessing something similar to a felt pen, but won't that bleed into the paper too much? I guess if you match the colours correctly then it won't matter? Which brand do you use? Maybe I can find it here in Australia. I'm also glad to hear that petal ends are not just my frustration.

    The nose cone has already been glued so I'll try to fix that with the acrylic paints. Luckily the very front section is just plain white so colour matching won't be a problem!

    Thank you all for the tips, it's great to have such an active forum with such quick replies.
  13. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    sharpies typically are used. water colors seem to be a higher standard (if you want to go to the effort) I would personally try the markers in different grey intesities (as suggested) or different charcoal pencils. Try whatever trips your trigger or is easiest to get ahold of :) better yet, try several techniques and line them up and snap a photo for us all to see heh heh. in the end it all boils down to what works best for you. some trial and error will be needed - trust me, I know about the error part!!! :D
    Chris
  14. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    sharpies typically are used. water colors seem to be a higher standard (if you want to go to the effort) I would personally try the markers in different grey intesities (as suggested) or different charcoal pencils. Try whatever trips your trigger or is easiest to get ahold of :) better yet, try several techniques and line them up and snap a photo for us all to see heh heh. in the end it all boils down to what works best for you. some trial and error will be needed - trust me, I know about the error part!!! :D
    Chris
  15. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

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    Hey Matt............... I wasn't fussing..........ok?

    The grey........or is it gray??!! anyway the markers I was talking about are PRISMACOLOR brand........... They have a broad tip on one end and a fine tip on the other.

    I use: 20% Cool Grey..........50% Cool Grey...........70% Cool Grey and I've even found a Cinnamon Toast(um hungry yet)......... that sort of blends in with the sand color on desert camos............ I got mine from Michaels........but I imagine any good hobby/craft store carries them...............like Hobby Lobby......

    I use SHARPIES too!........but you have to be careful......... they bleed like the dickens!

    I can not get by with out a BLACK FINE POINT SHARPIE...........

    "got a black magic marker.........." oh.......... wait........thats woman......:grin: apologies to Mr. Santana!:grin: :grin:
  16. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

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    Hey Matt............... I wasn't fussing..........ok?

    The grey........or is it gray??!! anyway the markers I was talking about are PRISMACOLOR brand........... They have a broad tip on one end and a fine tip on the other.

    I use: 20% Cool Grey..........50% Cool Grey...........70% Cool Grey and I've even found a Cinnamon Toast(um hungry yet)......... that sort of blends in with the sand color on desert camos............ I got mine from Michaels........but I imagine any good hobby/craft store carries them...............like Hobby Lobby......

    I use SHARPIES too!........but you have to be careful......... they bleed like the dickens!

    I can not get by with out a BLACK FINE POINT SHARPIE...........

    "got a black magic marker.........." oh.......... wait........thats woman......:grin: apologies to Mr. Santana!:grin: :grin:
  17. dhanners

    dhanners Member

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    There is some good advice so far, but let me add some and append others.

    It helps if you have some sort of shape that is shaped like or even just close to the shape of the nosecone you're making. Then you can insert it inside the nosecone during construction and burnish the card pieces the the shape while you are gluing them.

    Look around your workbench or the house for various shapes you can use as forms for burnishing. I've used everything from the end of a paintbrush handle to the cap of a stick of deoderant. (And boy, did that model smell good....)

    Before construction, though, make sure the paper parts are as flexible as they can be. Generally, the more work you do before gluing means the less work you'll have to do after gluing. If that makes any sense.

    Also, you can glue and sand the seams. Although I use PVA glue for construction, I use Elmer's white glue for things that I'm going to sand because I feel it sands better than PVA glue. Apply a thin coating to the area, let it dry thoroughly and then use a very fine sandpaper or sanding stick and lightly sand.

    On a couple of models, I've even tried to strengthen the inside of the nosecone prior to sanding the outside by taking tissue paper, coating it with white glue and then cramming it into the nose. When the glue hardens, so does the tissue paper.

    Good luck.