New w-40k chimera

Discussion in 'WarHammer40k' started by silveroxide, Apr 29, 2009.

  1. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    I Know that I was to build the The Thunderbolt next but I Decided to bring up a Chimera I designed over ten years ago out of styrene sheet. I am now in the process of making and drawing the plans out and doing a build sequence for it.

    The last pic is a proposed color scheme. There are other variations of this model as well. It lends itself out to become a self propelled anti tank killer, as well a turret mounted las cannons like the Games workshop Chimera. I will try to do the build sequence as soon as possible for your enjoyment.

    Strength and Honor
    Silveroxide

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  2. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    Diagrams

    Here are a some diagrams of the plans. I am now working on the tracks. As soon As I am Done I will initiate a build Thread

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  3. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    And so it begins

    I printed the plans on 120 lbs weight paper. In addition to this, I also laminate the Schematics. I like the feel of my models being sturdy. This is a tab less design, so you will have to make your own tabs. There are a few flaws but nothing big that cannot be fixed.

    I know that there are white edges on the build but that will be taken care off later at the end of the build. I paint and weather my projects at the end and that takes care of the white edges. You can color them in if you are not going to weather the project.

    A las-cannon turret is the works for the future. In the mean-time, enjoy the build.

    At present there is no download, but as soon as I finish this build and find and fix further problems, I will submit it for a free download.

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  4. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    Troop compartment

    I had to separate the front of the compartment, it was a bit too long. This was a bonus, because it help to cover a gap where the compartment and the front of the vehicle met. It blended the bottom of the hull well.

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  5. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    Still more to come

    In this set of pics, you can see why I separated the front bulkhead. It help to cover the gap that was in the beta-build. make sure that when you place the front bulkhead, the colored section is facing front.

    On the ramp door, you have to bend the edge and fold it to get the color part on both side of the hinge area. You will also have to do the same for the edge hinge support brackets.

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  6. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    continuation

    Pix #1. Rolled the strip into a tube and place it at the bottom of the ramp to simulate the hinge bar.

    Pix #2. Laminated the hatches. the round hatch you can laminated it one or two ply to simulate depth.

    Pix #3. With a blunted round end, rounded the edges of the hatch to give it that raised dome look. You can leave it flat if you wish.

    Pix #4 This is the result of that raised domed hatch.

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  7. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    continuation

    More details. So far it is coming along very well.

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  8. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    still alot more to come

    Here is the frontal cannon build. There is an error in the barrel casing. :cry:

    I will redo it on the misc. sheet, since the diagram page is too cluttered. I forgot to open a hole for the barrel on the frontal slope so I used my dremel to drill a hole into the front.:wave::wave::wave::wave:

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  9. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    continuation

    Closing up the troop compartment. Make sure the eagle is to the rear. the fit is good, but I glued it in place too quickly and the glue started to set before I could adjust. :cry::cry::cry:

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  10. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    Still more to come

    Laminated the rear top hatch and frame

    rolled the small rectangles into small cylinders and simulated the hatch hinges.

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  11. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    topside

    Handles view ports and gun ports. This parts are not laminated..:twisted::twisted:..

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  12. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    Tail lights and periscopes

    The tail lights are made using a small section of the paper ear-swab. The periscopes at this time are scratch built but I will have a template for them later.

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  13. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    Where I am At

    The following pics are where I am at at this time. The model is almost finished. I am still in the process of doing the build commentaries as well as the weathering and going over the white edges. I am pleased as to the results of this build. it came out better than the styrene model.

    The only drawback is that the scale is about 1/35. You may have to adjust the printer to a 75 or 85 percent to get the warhammer scale.

    Now to get back to the build preparation so I can post the rest of the build process....:wave::wave::wave::wave:

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  14. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    The Beast

    The beast is taking shape. At this time this is just the basic body, Later I will construct a turret and a hunter killer version.

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  15. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    Continuation

    Hull and fender construction:wave::wave::wave::wave:

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  16. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    Fender and road wheel support

    Fold the triangle piece and cut out two sections of triangle brackets and place them on the marked section of the fender housing.

    The road wheel support are laminated to the indicated edge marking, or 4X posterboard.

    Using the track as a guide. cut a section of foam board for the top support of the road wheel pylon. Using the pylon, measure off the length of the top of the pylon. Glue and set aside, you will be making some strips for support later.:wave::wave::wave::wave:

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  17. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    Support and road wheels

    Cut strips and make a support tab for the road wheel pylons.

    Use a regular marker instead of the sharpie, it is less glossy. Color the road wheel tops if you did not use a construction paper or colored in the extensions.

    Use the tools needed for rolling the road wheels. I used a 1/4 inch drill bit.

    Use colored strips for The road wheel. Black for the extensions and a suitable green or color for the main road wheels, or leave then white.

    I used the track as a guide to determine the width of the road wheels.

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  18. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    Road wheels

    For the road wheels, you will need 14 strips for the body as well as 14 for the outside extensions.

    The best way is to cut them out of black cardstock for the extension and green or vehicle color for the body of the road wheels. If you do not have these, then you can color the extensions and body of the road wheel.

    Sometimes while rolling the strips for the road wheels, you may have it angle out as shown. If this happens, use you finger or a flat edge to bring the cone down. You must do this immediately after rolling the wheel before the glue sets :wave::wave::wave::wave:

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  19. JackFrost

    JackFrost Member

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    awesome , can't wait to see how it turns out old bean
  20. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

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    It is coming along rather well. The devil is in the details. As of this time, the model is semi finished. I am just working on the build process pictures.