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Discussion in 'The Academy' started by shaygetz, Aug 23, 2004.
Looks Great :thumb: :thumb:
Excellent looking! Great job!
Thanks, guys. Looks like I haven't had enough of thermodynamics...
The tower needs a fence---chain link, topped with barbed wire or even coiled razor wire. I started by laying it out on a piece of plywood and drilled it for .020" brass wire.
Some 5 minute epoxy (Sacrete seemed impractical) and they were set in their holes. The compound measures a scale 40x40 feet with provision for a 10 foot wide double hung gate. The foundations for the tower were punched out of .030" styrene and set with epoxy.
While the glue set, I fashioned a tank inspection ladder and set it in place. Tomorrow I warm up the soldering iron...
What, don't you want your LTPB to graffitti it up, or is it a double secret government storage facility in disguise!!!
Nice work, it is really looking good.-:thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb:
Thanks, Brian. I remember when one of the guys at Bible College tagged the water tower behind our school He and his cohorts got campused for a month.
Keep it dry, Ken, they just tracked Francis to my house for Monday.
Just a pic in contrasts. Shown are the new brass inspection ladder next to the original
The brass flow pipe is next, mounted in a way to provide for future lighting of the tower. It is mounted clear thru the plywood base then glued in with epoxy. The fence posts are then topped off at a scale 7' using flush cut nippers and a gauge.
Formed and set the corners using .015" wire using a mid rail and corner strut setup. These were bent to a 90 degree angle and soldered at the corner then the ends were clipped and butt jointed to the next post. Where the strut meets the ground was glued with ACC.
The cap rail was added next. This coupled with a fantastic LSU game has left me in a euphoric nappy-like state... :sleeping:
On its way, Brian...iffen I ain't floatin' away this time tomorrow :thumb:
The standoffs for the barbed wire come next. They were simply butt soldered to the tops of the posts and rails. I soldered a length of .015" wire at the correct angle (sort of) and clipped it to the proper height. It is actually quite sturdy, haveing to redo only 2-3 during the course of the task.
Billy Joe Ray Bob surveys the work after the excess flux was cleaned off with a Q-tip dipped in alcohol and any excess solder was cleaned off with a file. Next comes the ground cover, then paint, barbed wire top and finally the chain link itself.
Like the gubmint mandated "water saving" toilets that use 3x the water that the old ones used, it's a sign of a well meaning beauracracy gone astray. The regulations for cages depend on the height from the platform it starts from, regardless of the height of said platform. Don't that just give you a warm fuzzy feelin' all over?
Because of the plywood, I couldn't use water soluble type scenery techniques so I used different collored craft paints as a bonding agent. The white is a product called "Decorative Snow" and is found in Wal-Mart stores. It has a gritty texture to it that gives the terrain some tooth and hides the wood grain of the plywood.
Hey, Chris. Started on the fence tonite...may get something done as the tops of my posts break off regularly, forcing me to start from square one
WARNING---DO NOT ATTEMPT IF PREGNANT, TAKING HEART MEDICATION, SUFFERED A RECENT STROKE OR ARE GIVEN TO STRONG DRINK
The fence HAD to have three wires on its barbed wire top. This was done by tying off the strands to the water column then carefully wrapping each strand around every other post. 4 mil nylon thread was used for the wire. It was secured at each post with Crazy Glue.
This took no less than three hours to do. I would highly recommend simply using the old standby of running verticle posts all the way past the top rail and wiring them up. The scale sized wie supports look great but are easily broken. 3x I was well on my way to completion when a support (or two )would break, requiring me to undo all my work and resolder the support.
This close-up does show that I got my desired results, it just requires a great deal of patience. The blob is excess flux that will clean off with some alcohol (the medical kind, THE MEDICAL KIND!!! )and a Q-tip.
Thanks, Tyson, I am going to heed my own advice and not try it this way again. It looks great but, the wire stays are so fragile that one has already popped under the strain. I've made repairs and believe the rest will hold but it just isn't worth the added complications.
The chain link is made from a material called tulle (pronounced "tool"). To cut it to proper size I taped it to my footlocker top with blue painter's tape. I then laid out the width and cut it to size with scissors. This ensures a uniform width and protects it from damage. DO NOT USE regular masking tape as it wil rip the tulle apart as you try to get it off.
I then coated the posts with Crazy glue and carefully applied the tulle, making sure not to fill the mesh holes with glue. A short burst of breath in affected areas quickly removed any filled holes.