New Fokker E-III (okay, several)

Discussion in 'Internet Finds' started by Texman, Feb 23, 2006.

  1. Texman

    Texman Guest

  2. Richard

    Richard Member

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    Ray,

    you're indeed the first one, congrats!
    due to hot weather over here progress on my Eindeckers has been very slow, just finished two engines, pictures will be taken soon.

    Richard
  3. Texman

    Texman Guest

    I understand Richard. I am down just south of Frankfurt, Germany. Hot
    here too!

    Ray
  4. Richard

    Richard Member

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    slow process

    Allright, some more pictures of the Eindeckers.
    Don't know if I got the ammo-feed right, couldn't find anything about it in the instructions and didn't want to go all the way like I did with the engine :)
    Last parts for the cowling are allready cut and glued, only have to be fitted to the plane.
    I also cut off about 1mm from the underside of the machinegun, otherwise the barrel would be quite high over the cowling.

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  5. Bengt F

    Bengt F Active Member

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    Slow But Steady Progress

    Hi Richard,

    Those Eindeckers really look good with your engines and cowling additions!
    It´s an absolute must now.
    You did a good thing lowering the MG a bit - it´s quite close to the fuselage on the original.
    The gun belt feeds from the righthand side and empties in a bin to the left below the MG, as seen from the cockpit. The shape is slanting on both sides in an s-form, with a "groove" where the gun belt rests.

    Here´s a Google picture reference page: http://images.google.se/images?q=Fokker E. III&ndsp=20&svnum=10&hl=sv&lr=&ie=UTF-8&start=20&sa=N

    Best,
    Bengt:grin:
  6. Richard

    Richard Member

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    Bengt,

    take a look at the link a few posts back, the one from the science museum, there are a couple of pics of how things look like on the left side of the MG.
    Only haven't figured out where the chute for the wasted cartridges ends.........

    Cheers,
    Richard
  7. Bengt F

    Bengt F Active Member

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    Fokker E.III Ammo Feed Chute

    Hi Richard,

    This is how the MG and ammo feed chute look on the San Diego replica - it´s slanting in an S-curve on the right-hand side but the left-hand side is actually the top of the compartment for the belt with empty cartridges, which is housed below and behind the the ammo feed belt compartment. The little "bulge" to the left of the MG is the cover for the fuel gauge and behind it is a slot or hole into the compartment for the empty cartridges:

    [​IMG]

    Hope this helps, if you want to make it really accurate and detailed.

    Best,
    Bengt :wink:

    (Detail of picture is borrowed from "Fokker E. III In Detail", by Achim Engels, Fokker-Team-Schorndorf)
  8. Richard

    Richard Member

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    Bengt,

    thanks for the picture.
    I think I'll leave the MG the way it is now, perhaps fit the angular plate on the left later but am not sure about it now.

    btw, how's your build doing?not catching dust I hope....:)

    Richard
  9. Bengt F

    Bengt F Active Member

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    Fokker E.III Models

    Richard,

    I´m glad you found the picture explanatory.
    I´ll think I´ll soon blow the dust of my models and continue the work, with the aid of your excellent detail improvements.

    Best,
    Bengt:grin:
  10. Richard

    Richard Member

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    more progress

    Bengt,

    I can hardly wait to see how far your Eindeckers are....:)

    and now for some more progress on my planes, cowling is finished although I'm not totally happy with it, and the props are ready as well.
    couldn't resist including my next project in one of the pics.........

    Richard

    Attached Files:

  11. Bengt F

    Bengt F Active Member

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    Not so much progress - yet . . .

    Hi Richard,

    Your E.IIIs look real nice, with engines, props (very smooth curves), MGs and all.
    I´m afraid I haven´t made any progress yet - so many other things to take care of at the moment. But I will finish them, some day. I think I might use metal duct tape for the cowlings and engine plates, along the lines suggested by Eric Goedkoop. Have you seen the cowling on his new Sopwith Pup project? - it´s very nice. It´s in the Parts Bin under airplanes, I think . . .

    Bengt :roll:

    PS. For wheel tires, I think I´m gonna try large rubber O-rings, instead of coat buttons, for a more realistic look (and feel).
  12. EricGoedkoop

    EricGoedkoop Member

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    Thanks, Bengt. I snuck it into Gil's Nieuport thread, but here it is again:

    [​IMG]

    I scuff up the tape with fine sandpaper before using it - I imagine you should be able to put the characteristic Fokker machining pattern in with a Dremel and some spare time. I've found that adhering the tape to plain bond paper rather than cardstock helps reduce the appearance of the seams and gives a neater edge. For the rings and front plate on the E.III cowl it would be worth the effort to complete the circle described by each piece and mark its center so that you can use a circle cutter. A little trial-and-error is always required to get the exact radii. My advice is to cut the outer circle first (no need to go all the way 'round, just a bit past the ends of the part), flatten out the center dimple you'll have in the tape and cover the hole with a piece of masking tape, then cut the inner circle. This will help tremendously in keeping the two cuts concentric.

    Once all the parts are assembled, coat the inside of all the seams with glue. When that's good and dry, some light sanding around each joint will take any extra glue right off the aluminum and minimize the joints.
  13. EricGoedkoop

    EricGoedkoop Member

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    By the way - I did TRY to cut the three cooling vents into the Pup's cowl, but after several botched attempts decided it wasn't worth the frustration.

    Still looks like a Pup, overall and that's good enough for me.
  14. Bengt F

    Bengt F Active Member

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    Metal Duct Tape Cowlings

    Eric,

    Thanks for the advice on how to use the duct tape for a realistic metal plate look - I can imagine that the scuffing up that you do with fine sand paper makes it look a bit weathered and used (not too shiny)?
    I actually found a roll of very narrow, thin metal tape called "Scotch Pressure Sensitive Tape", about 1/2" wide, made by 3M.
    I´ll try to find some broader tape, though, for the Fokker E.III cowlings.
    And, I have also bought myself a Dremel-like tool with lots of accessories - I think I´ll use a very small brass or copper circular brush for the irregular machine-turned pattern (which I believe was put there to reduce some of the sun´s glare in the pilot´s eyes when flying towards the sun).

    Best,
    Bengt :smile:
  15. Bengt F

    Bengt F Active Member

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    Circle Cutter

    Eric,

    I was wondering - your circle cutter - is it the OLFA brand?

    [​IMG]

    Where did you get it?
    I have been trying here in Stockholm but I haven´t found one - yet.

    Bengt :cry:
  16. EricGoedkoop

    EricGoedkoop Member

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    Really?

    I hadn't heard that before. My understanding was that the machine turning halped prevent stress fractures from developing in the aluminum. Vibration from the rotary engine made this something of a concern.

    I might be way off-base on that, though . . . .
  17. EricGoedkoop

    EricGoedkoop Member

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    I have two, actually. The yellow one is indeed an Olfa, and I bought it at Michael's (an arts and crafts chain store here in the US) a few years ago. Went looking for replacement blades at some later point and the store didn't have any, but did at that time have a similar cutter made by C-Thru with 5 spare blades for something like $6.00, so I picked that up.

    Haven't had any trouble with either and I can't say that the Olfa is necessarily better, at least for my purposes. Both will cut up to a 3" (76mm) radius; the Olfa will go as small as 7/32" (6mm) and the C-Thru - believe it or not - a bit smaller to 3/16" (just under 5mm).

    I've found it very helpful to have two, actually, when making cowls. I set one to cut the outside of a cowl section and the other to cut the inside, and then can make minute adjustments to each during the trial-and-error period without bouncing from big to little and back again.

    The aluminum WILL wear down your blades quickly, so buy extras.
  18. shrike

    shrike Guest


    Just between you, me and the fencepost, engine turning or damasceneing on aluminium is a quick and dirty method of hiding shoddy or less than perfect metal working. It removes any layout marks, hides scratches and accidental dents and takes FAR less time than polishing.
    It has the side-efect of being rather pretty as well.

    In precision steel parts (watches, firearms and such) it increases a surfaces ability to hold oil and prevent rust. It's also pretty<G>
  19. EricGoedkoop

    EricGoedkoop Member

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    Certainly you're not suggesting that the Schwerin Werkes turned out anything shoddy or less than perfect.

    Are you?



    I am shocked.



    :grin:
  20. Bengt F

    Bengt F Active Member

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    Fokker E.III & Dr.I Video Clip

    Hi all Fokker builders,

    For those of you who haven´t seen this great dog fight & flying circus video clip yet - here´s another chance:

    http://www.letajicicirkus.cz/video.php

    -it´s large (about 27 Mbytes) and the viewing duration is about 13 minutes.
    Best seen with broadband.

    Enjoy,
    Bengt :wink: